Nice one mate Must admit I'm a bit gutted as I loved reading this build and looking at the pics lol Will it be at CF next year want a closer look at them mods
Nice one mate Must admit I'm a bit gutted as I loved reading this build and looking at the pics lol Will it be at CF next year want a closer look at them mods
When I grow up I will have a MK1 Escort
I must be all growed up now then and paying for it!
Thanks mate, it really has been a pleasure doing it but don't worry this is not the end of the escort project, I will now focus on developing it. First of this big list of ideas is a new front suspension set up, bespoke billet uprights on adjustable dampers, have a lot more researching to do yet though. Then it will be to increase the power up to the 250 bhp region.
I have another project in mind already for once things start to settle down work wise, and it is something which I can go wild with the engineering on, not so limited by the regulations as the escort.
As for classic Ford, yes it will be there I would think.
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Happy days mark
Its looking great
Hexham and District Motorclub
Really good build thread, thanks so much for sharing. Would you be able to post a few pictures of the finished engine bay? All the best.
No problem mate. Will get some photos over the weekend and stick them on here for you.
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Thanks mate, really good. Wanted to get some inspiration for my duratec install which should be underway soon. All the best and hope to see a section under competition cars to see how she goes. CheeRS
Sorry for the lack of updates but until the weekend there has not really been any. Got a good few hundred miles on the car now and it has been great fun. Only teething problems to date been......
-an oil leak on the gearbox, turned out to be the lid not being sealed
-dodgy master switch
-water leak on the inline restrictor I put in to create some back pressure in the cooling system
So on Saturday was heading up north to see Tom at Fostek and called into Motoscope to pick up a master cylinder. Ended up coming out with this beauty.
So got it fitted on Sunday afternoon.
Few issues with the fitting, all relating the the concentric slave cylinder........
This is how the cylinder was mounted in the bell housing with the old box, the cylinder mounted into the back of it.
With the new box, the cylinder needed to mount on the front of the box, not the back of the bell housing. With only a small 50mm hole in the bell housing we had to open her up a bit! this allowed the front of the 60G to pass through the bellhousing.
Looks rough above, but 10 minutes with the air sander and it was a decent round(ish) hole
Needed to make a new gearbox bracket as the mountings were different on the boxes.
That sorted, I needed to recalculate the offset required between the box and slave cylinder to get the release being in the correct place. We did notice the bearing was about knackered but were far to excited to wait to get a new one.
Spaced the cylinder forward by 18mm using a few hexagon spacers then got ready to bleed it up. First pump of the pedal......big puddle of fluid on the floor.
Took the box back off, and the seal had pushed out of the back of the cylinder. Turns out these cylinders need something solid to push on. Major thing carelessly overlooked! At that point i remembered that the release bearing kit cam with a spacer, I couldn't remember whether I binned it or not. After a bit of routing around I found it in a box of brake pads!
That fitted perfectly, and once reassembled the clutch bled up great. Cobbled the display in with some temporary wiring to set it up and that was about it.
Ran it up on the ramp and everything works great.
Had it out the last couple of night and love it, its completely transformer the car. I will Get a video uploaded at some point.
Downside is the release bearing is completely shot now. I have another one on its way today so the box will need to come off, again! If anyone is running the Burtons type release bearing kit, the release bearing is from a Saab and you can get it from your local motor factors. LUK part number 500033320.
Next on the list......
Laser cut bracket to mount the gear indicator off the dash
Get the hardware installed for flatshift, there are a couple of options available by the sounds of it
Get the engine and flatshift mapped
Billet lever incorporating bike brake lever instead of the lift up collar
The old 5 speed straight cut Tran-x box will be for sale if anyone is interested. I have been meaning to start a for sale thread for months with various bits I have left, I will get around to it!
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Awesome, car is truly a credit to you sir!
Nice one ! Fantastic job, it makes it all worth while once these projects are all bolted together and you can blast them down the road!
Is that gearlever a Camillus Bradley extra long jobbie?
Looks great Mark, the car definitely deserves it. The bellhousing looks like it was cast for a standard Ford release bearing anyway so you wouldn't have been able to use your Titan one. I think your only option with your direct lever is a load cell and a geartronics control box to feed your 9A4 with the signal. I've got some photos of when I did Paul Alexander's Grp4 fabs lever. Let me know if you want the pics mate, drop me a text or something.
Hi Paul, the lever is a proper Quaife long lever with short throw tower. The lock collar is a bit crap though, going to bin it and go for a V brake lever, sure I have some spares in my shed!
Thanks Matt, as always, any info would be greatly appreciated. I had a quick look at the Geartronics module but that is about it. Tom did say you would be the man to ask!
Got the brackets on the laser yesterday. Will get this on the car tonight. Also going to change that release bearing
Next priority. Getting it log booked and go rallying. Still need, 1 new seat, 2 new harnesses, plumbed in extinguisher, proper battery, spares, intercom, helmet, race suit and much more
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Well, new release bearing has not cured the problem even though the old one was shot.
If the car is in neutral, clutch not pressed, rattles like a ba***rd. press the clutch and its as quiet as I would expect.
Can only think of 2 things, clutch fingers or clutch needs shimming up.
Has anyone got any thoughts on what if could be?
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Car is looking nice, must be awesome with that box in it,
What cluch plate you using? is it a twin plated clutch?
Hi I'm just fitting a hydraulic clutch... Iv had a measure up and the gap between the bearing and pressure plate is 32mm. How much free play should I allow between them? Would I be ok going for a 30mm spacer leaving 2mm between them?
Cheers
I will pass on the advise I was given, worked perfectly for me.
Put the clutch housing on with no plates in, the fingers will then be extended out as far as they will go, measure from the back of the motor (where the bell housing seats) to the furthest point on the fingers.
This is the position your release bearing wants to be when its home, so its the same dimension from the bell housing face to the release bearing.
Think my dimension was 78mm but it depends on your set up.
Is that any use? I can do a cad model if it helps
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Yes that's spot on! I didn't think of removing the plates. Iv done a measure up with the plates in there and allowed for 2mm clearances. Will check your way!
Thanks
Just read all this thread. Absolute quality. Nice one
Its nearly a year since i last updated this ............
Car has been absolutely great up to a couple of months ago. Its never really been used in anger since finishing it (which turns out to be a good thing), and has barely covered 1000 road miles.
Whoever prepped the shell must have decided against welding the link boxes in properly They were the 2 piece ones which look to have split down the joint between the 2 pieces and the the front half, which was then taking all the load from the link bars started tearing out of the shell. Nice!
So it was a heartbreaking couple of days cutting the old ones out and dressing up the shell ready for welding new one piece heavy duty ones in...........
You can see in the image below where the prop flange has been hitting the floor when the link boxes moved
Also made 2 of these gussets to weld inside the car from the front of the link box (behind the seat, to the floor under the seat, to strengthen it all up further.
...........got here valeted to make me feel better about chopping it up
Other biggest issue to date has been the failing of the mechanical thermostat during a set up session on the rollers. This was only highlighted, luckily, because the the mapping software flagged up high temperature. I had no mechanical gauge fitted. So I have added a mechanical gauge reading temperature from the water rail. That got me thinking about the position of the thermostat, and I dont think its in the correct place in the system (between the rad outlet and the engine.) The Raceline water rails have thermostat located within the rail its self, pre radiator which is a much better place. So rather than buying a new water rail I have bought and fitted an inline stat which came from Canada, into the top hose. I will get a photo of that tonight.
Took the car testing to Teesside Autodrome last month. Great day, Great to finally test the limits of it, far exceeds expectation. Took some X22 Dunlops but it was far too warm for them so ran most of the day on the Toyo Proxies and it still astonishes me how well it sticks to the road. Things learnt.....need some harder compound 13" tyres, needs stiffening up on the rear possibly an anti roll bar and need some better brake fluid, brake pedal hit the floor whilst flat in 6th after about 20 minutes of hard driving.
GoPro vid of the last run of the day on the road tyres
Next up.........I have my forms for my MSA licence, just need to book the BARS test
I project for the winter is to build a new engine for it, the head will be going off for machining in the next few weeks. I think i will need to gear the car longer with a new CWP once the motor is finished.
And flatshit to install.
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
your car is so fast, beautiful job and it seems amazing, congratulations.
Nice car would you be interested in doing another cam cover as that looks the goods
Glad to see you back mark
Hope all is well with work etc
Will you still be producing parts
Im after some seat side rails and a few other bit soon
Hexham and District Motorclub
My link boxes did the same Mark the two piece ones are meant to be the better ones but we've both found different. I also went for the gusset route and did the lower section too under the floorpan to the chassis rail.
Car looks great, I've got a nice 307bhp you can buy?!
Work is crazy, not sure where the last year has gone. I need to commit some more time to getting the car ready to rally and using the thing!
In terms of parts, I can still produce most parts, seat rails are simple enough to do give me a shout when you know what you need.
Thanks Matt. I can believe the 2 piece are as good as the one piece ones, but i suppose either are only as good at the guy welding them in. Drop me a message about your motor
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
love the vid and the car
Awesome vid. Car pulls well
Great to see the car in action after all the build thread! Thanks for posting
Every time I see that cam cover I want one!!
If you want to make another I'm ready to pay
It is on the job list Moisty. The plan is to rapid prototype a pattern then have some sand cast and machined. It will happen, eventually !
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
What about getting some water cut
Thats what we have done with some bda ones
Hexham and District Motorclub
The BDA ones are pretty much flat, because the cams sit so proud on a Duratec the overall height is about 70mm from memory, then in need machining out
enquiries@flintec-eng.co.uk
Hiya. Great thread and good tips!!
Would you do me a rocker cover. It's awesome!!
let me know !!
thanks👌👍👍
What a cool build. I want one of those rocker covers!!
Very nice!
Looks good with them black wheels
Such a rapid Escort.
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