Pair of old Skodas

[rwd2ltrfiesta]

finger and pulling comes 2 mind mate lol instead of teasing us

[raymondmarble]

finger and pulling comes 2 mind mate lol instead of teasing us

Fingers being extracted as we speak

Only a small update today. I made up the new Land Rover to Skoda adaptor fitting, so the clutch cylinder can now connect to the pedal.



Not the most beautiful thing you'll ever see, but as you have to lie upside down with your head on the floor to see it, I'm not too fussed



Next, throttle opening. I am only getting part throttle with the pedal down fully (maybe thats why Skoda's are so slow...), so lets look at sorting that out. First, see how far its out, so hold the pedal down fully.



Which opens the throttles this much...



Which is about half open only



So, my idea. Here is a standard Skoda throttle cable actuator arm. I thought to extend the arm to double the length or so to give extra range on the cable.



The actuator lives in here, and its pretty tight. I'd have to cut a hole in the top of the tunnel to give it clearance, then fit a wee box on top to cover it again.



I like that idea, but another option is this. As I finally got my welder back, I could maybe weld a new arm onto the exposed bit of the pedal bar here and have the cable come out the side of the tunnel. I'm not daft on this idea as its a bit close to the clutch pedal for my liking and also I might catch my foot on it.



I think I'll stick to Plan A

Anyway, sorry for the small update, but I'm getting through it a wee bit at a time. more soon! Thanks for the support

Graham

[caprimentle]

i'm liking plan A, but atleast if all else fails you have a plan B, your certainly a man on a mission with having more than 1 plan and all that lol

[exboyracer]

Could you not move the cable attachment point closer to the carb spindle instead of modding the pedal end G?

[raymondmarble]

i'm liking plan A, but atleast if all else fails you have a plan B, your certainly a man on a mission with having more than 1 plan and all that lol

You can never have too many plans Alex

Could you not move the cable attachment point closer to the carb spindle instead of modding the pedal end G?

I've already done that Dave. Its on the closest hole to the spindle now, and if I was to drill a new hole, it'd have to be touching the spring for it to move it enough and I don't think the cable would be very happy with those loads. The only place to do it now is the pedal end, but thats the downside of the rear engine. On a front engined car like an Escort, you can make a grp4 pedal with a longer actuator arm and it doesn't affect anything other than cable pull as the cable comes through the bulkhead in near enough the same place anyway. On my car, the cable come along the tunnel, so its not so easy to route it up over the dash to the pedal box to do it that way. I really can't think of another way to do it other than lengthening the actuator arm in the standard place. Thing is, there are plenty Skodas on twin carbs, and they all seem to work just fine. I've looked at their pictures as best I can and can see nothing special about their set ups

Here is an example. You can see the cable side of the arm is much shorter than the carb side. Maybe I just have to try another linkage type...

[raymondmarble]

The electrician started work on the Estelle tonight. Hopefully will finish tomorrow then everything will work!!

Then, fix the throttle opening, get it into the garage next door when they reopen to get the clutch and brakes done again, then down to the carb lad to get the 40's set up, and thats it, finished! MOT time

Once thats done my Skoda loving chums (all 2 of you ), it'll be back to the old S100 for some love. Always thinking ahead there, I picked up a pair of 45's today for it. 16v Suzuki motor on 45's pushing 600kg sounds good to me!

More updates shortly....

Cheers!

[caprimentle]

[raymondmarble]

indeed Alex!!

Wee bit more today. Car is now wired, just got to put the dash back together (what there is of it)...



Then put the grill back on...



And find a new hazard switch, or make one good one out of these two broken switches. I fixed the headlight switch the same way, so looks like that'll prob be the answer...



Almost finished now folks!! Then it'll be back to the old S100 for some action. Speaking of which, the 45's do look good on the 16v head eh?



Hopefully more tomorrow if I can get to the unit and get on. Hope you are all still enjoying this wonderful voyage into the realms of Czech motoring!

[caprimentle]

that 16v head looks cool, what are the 16v engines called and what are things like bigger valves and race camshafts like for getting hold of?

[raymondmarble]

Its a Suzuki G13B. Originally found in the Swift GTI. 1300cc and 101bhp standard. The engines are really light, which is important always, but crucial in a rear engined car as the weight is outwith the axle lines. I know the crank is steel as standard, but the rest of the spec I can't remember, I'll have to refresh myself. You can get anything you want for them mate, the tuning market is healthy. Most people claim you can get 150bhp without spending any real money or doing anything radical, but if I can clear 130, I'll be chuffed for now. One guy got 196bhp out of his!! Not bad for a 1.3 N/A engine, but that was big bucks.
As with all desirable engines from a couple of decades ago, they are getting hard to find now and they are really popular in Minis, which will soak up a lot of them. There is a guy on here who knows a lot about them from Sweden. He has one in his Mini and its FAST! Maybe he can give you more details.
Cheers!

[kolos]

from the engine Skoda 1,4 16v is getting 200HP. Suzuki swift is not bad, too, when the performance around 170HP.

[kolos]

mate, I only have 2 posts and I can't send PM, so I write here-until you've read it, and answer me, so I delete it, or if you write me a mail, I will send you there.

the photos will be after the weekend (engine, transmission and other new parts). Otherwise, I'm fine, I just now was a lot of work, so I'm not even on the internet did not have much time, so therefore I am responding to now. If you have access to a CNC lathe, plain or you can have unibal drawings-complete drawing production. If not, do I make it even cheaper, than they have on those pages, and then I can send it to you, when you need it?

[rwd2ltrfiesta]

wakey wakey g

[raymondmarble]

wakey wakey g

In the process of moving house mate. As soon as thats out of the way, I'll get the red car finished. You'll be the first to know! Thanks for the interest, really appreciate that!

[mexicotait]

Just watched an old rac video with a little skoda being pushed out of tge way by russell brookes
Made me think of this thread
Looking forward to seeing the slides !

[mexicotait]

Oh and g
Could you post a link to that video on the first page with the 1300 skoda ?
The original doesnt want to work

[raymondmarble]

Thanks mate

This is the one I posted, but if you search for 'Skoda 130RS' on you tube, there are loads of them....

[raymondmarble]

A couple more....

The best one maybe (when it eventually plays in normal speed) with works driver Matthias Kahle.



And a couple more....





Back to my own build again soon. Thanks for the interest

Graham

[kolos]

and this is komplet photogalery and videos :-)

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Josef-...40334566025896

[raymondmarble]

Thanks Ivo, I love that car!

[raymondmarble]

Hi folks, miss me?

Finally got the car moved, moved house and got organised. The car now has working brakes, working clutch and is all undersealed with Schultz. It even drove home from the garage under its own steam for the first time, although very slowly. So a small update with more to follow soon...

Firstly, do you remember the car was a bit high at the back?



That has been fixed.



Sits a lot better now. Should do wonders for the handling as well as it lowers the tall heavy(ish) engine out over the back axle.





My new assistant



Next, partly opening throttle. The bell crank is the wrong geometry to open the throttles fully. Just now, they only open about one third. I've looked at lots of options, but the only way really is to make a new bell crank, so thats what I'll do.



Off, ready for some PhD level mathematics...



Not very exciting, but at least its finally heading in the right direction. More soon!

Cheers!

[rwd2ltrfiesta]

yes buddy good on ya

[caprimentle]

we love abit of graham raymond marble mathematical geometry

[mexicotait]

As I see it you have a few options
The pedal is difficult so it's easier to fiddle with the linkage
So which part are you going to make longer ?

[Yanmarman]

Very quick Skoda www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ncd5iWRKm_I

[raymondmarble]

I'm going to extend the aluminium ball crank so the same cable pull gives more carb opening. The only thing that still preys on the back of my mind is, the cable doesn't move much. I worry about the cable maybe being over worked and stretching a little? Might be fine, but if it doesn't work, I can reverse it to how it is now and do the pedal end instead. Either way, this is getting fixed right now!

[raymondmarble]

Very quick Skoda www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ncd5iWRKm_I

Thanks! Yes, I saw that car, sequential box too. NICE well built car!

This one is probably my favourite...



Cheers!

[Yanmarman]

He's Certainly Committed Not much lifting from that Guy

[mexicotait]

I was thinking could you shorten the closest part to the spindle
That would give you more wouldn't it ?

[raymondmarble]

He's Certainly Committed Not much lifting from that Guy

Its awesome! The bit near the end going through the wee town is fantastic!

I was thinking could you shorten the closest part to the spindle
That would give you more wouldn't it ?

Yes you are right, but I have already redrilled it as close to the spindle as I dare. I can't go any closer or the cable will barely move any distance for the opening I need. I worry I'm pushing the limits of the cable too far. If my new crank doesn't work, I will have to go back to the pedal end and do it that way.

Cheers!

[exboyracer]

Nice to see you're back at it G

[raymondmarble]

Nice to see you're back at it G

Thanks Dave! I'm trying to get it finished finally now. Cheers


Ok, got my new bell crank back from the machine shop today.



I then cut out the spindle from the linkage bracket, turned it around and welded it back on so the spindle is further out.



And all fitted and finished



So does it work? Does it feck
Well, it does work, and its a big improvement, but still doesn't open the throttles fully. However, its not all bad. I will now modify the pedal actuator, which is really what I should have done in the first place. Thats next folks. Thanks for the interest in my daft Skodas!

[caprimentle]

Always makes me smile this thread

[mexicotait]

Does that clear your fuel line. ?

[retropower]

Love those old skodas! Would love a coupe but they've all been grasstracked to death now!

[raymondmarble]

Always makes me smile this thread

Smile or laugh??

Does that clear your fuel line. ?

Not as it is, but its no problem.The outer cable hole is redundant so I can now cut it off. For the purpose of the test, I just lifted the fuel line up while my wife pressed the throttle. Well, you have to make them feel useful now and again...

Love those old skodas! Would love a coupe but they've all been grasstracked to death now!

Thanks very much! I would LOVE to send you my old Skoda to build for me. Your work is exceptional! Unfortunately, I have no money, so I have to do it myself But for the coupe, there are still plenty about and they come up for sale regularly. Next time I see one, I'll send you the link.

Cheers folks!

[mexicotait]

Yes you do
Glad your getting somewhere

[raymondmarble]

This was not going to beat me!!

So! I got a spare throttle actuator and added 40mm to its length. SURELY this would be too much! The standard arm is 45mm long, so I almost doubled it. I had to make the inevitable hole in the tunnel to give it the headroom. Its a bit rough in the pic, but I'll tidy it up and leave it open, or build a wee housing for it later.



So, now did it open the carbs fully?? Did it feck still!!! The pedal was hitting the stop before the carbs opened fully, so I inspected the pedal. It was bloody bent!! Not much, but enough. I cut, rebent and welded it back into place, and welded a brace on the back to give it extra rigidity.



So NOW did it work??? YES!!!! But really, what a faff over such a simple job.

Finally, I buffed down the end of the bell crank so it clears the fuel line, and that was it. Done.




Now, whats next? Get it set up maybe?

Thanks for the interest! More soon

[exboyracer]

Well done mate

[mexicotait]

Yay happy days g!!!!