Engine will fire but not run on. New Weber carb fitted. New Bosch dizzy with magnatronic ignition fitted. All new plugs and leads.
Engine will fire but not run on. New Weber carb fitted. New Bosch dizzy with magnatronic ignition fitted. All new plugs and leads.
try some fuel / easy start down carb, if it runs on on that then its a fuel issue
Make sure your ignition system has a constant voltage with the ignition switched on.
I had an issue many years ago where the ballast resistor had failed, and the car would only run while cranking. As soon as the key was released, the engine died. If your vehicle uses a low voltage coil, this could be the problem. I also managed to wire an ignition coil to the starter trigger years ago too, which had the same results
Simon
Simon. Not being electrically minded can you tell me how to check constant voltage.
Turn the ignition on so the dash lights up, then check the + side of the coil. You should get a voltage.If the voltage is around 9V, it should jump to 12V during starter cranking. This would mean the ballast resistor is OK. If the voltage is 12V all the time, then you don't need to worry about future ballast failures
Simon
Last edited by runoutofrigos; 04-04-2020 at 11:48.
Originally Posted by alladdin
did you try this ? you have not replied .............
most likely the timing is a mile out!
No ballast resistor fitted and never has had one. With ignition switched on i have a reading of 12 volts.
Valve timing set at TDC. Pointer on cam wheel aligned with dot in cylinder head. Crank pulley set at 8 degrees BTDC. Rotor arm positioned pointing directly at number 1 lead in distributor. That is how i understand to set timing but please let me know if i have done anything wrong.
thats right, BUT you could still be quite a long way out on the timing, if you still had points fitted you would adjust the distributor so the points are just opening, but with the electronic ignition you wont know exactly where the triggering point is, so assuming you actually have a spark, because you havnt said whether you have a not, try twisting the distributor body anti close wise a bit.
but before you do that take teh spark plugs out and see if they are wet, if they are wet you have plenty of fuel getting into the engine, so your then problem is going to be simply wet plugs, no spark or spark at the wrong time
Very good spark. Fuel defo getting to cylinders. Have rotated dizzy clock and anti clock. To far one way or the other and the engine struggles to turn over. I have had the engine running on the current set up but the timing marks seemed to be miles away using a timing light so i took out the dizzy thinking i was a notch away but since then i cant get the engine to run on.
err ok, dont really understand why you took the dizzy out when you had had it running, if it was running it was reasonably close whatever your timing light said! its hard to comment more on the timing light without knowing what sort of light you were using, how you were reading the timing marks, whether the dizzy has a vac module and if it was connected, and what speed the engine was running at when you tried to time it.
you need to retrace your steps, perhaps re installing the dizzy from scratch. just be mindful, if its not firing or backfiring at all, there a good chance you have fouled the plugs trying to start it.
PS the engine struggling to turn over when you twist the dizzy is a sign of too much advance, i wouldn't expect it to do that in both directions, unless you also mixed up the HT lead order along the way.
Thanks for all your advice. will have to start from scratch i think. Work is going to have to take center stage at the moment but i will let you know how i get on when i get back in the garage.
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