are any cars fitted with a duratec turbo as standard
are any cars fitted with a duratec turbo as standard
Not that i know of
Mazda 3 MPS 2.3 Duratec Turbo
It's not a duratec it's a DISIOriginally Posted by Youngben
Mazda 3 MPS 2.3 Duratec Turbo
So what exactly are the differences as all i see is Duratec under the plastic?It's not a duratec it's a DISI
The blocks are pretty much the same with the Duratac / DISI (MZR) / L series (mazda denoted Duratec) / Ecoboost which is why most things bolt on, same oil cooler housing for example
The DISI and Ecoboost use different head to each other and the also Duratec (as DISI and Eco boost are GDI)
Internals on the DISI have some commonality with the ECOBOOST, but completely different inside to a Duratec
so would an aftermarket rwd sump fit an ecoboost.on the duratec 2.3 blocks are different but I see you can stroke an eco boost to 2.3 on the 2.0 block
Ah ok, yes. Gearbox pcd bolt pattern is identical to a duratec. So whatever box will fit a duratec will fit an ecoboost
The zenos e10 uses an ecoboost and a 6 speed rwd box
I have a mk 2 1600 sport escort on the drive and only issue would be the high pressure fuel pump as it could hit the bulkhead as the mx5 boys have found this happens when fitting the ecoboost
Last edited by djwilma; 12-08-2016 at 11:19.
Some more goodies have arrived courtesy of Speedp3rform6nce, cant praise these guys enough for their support and knowledge
This time its the auxiliary fueling systems, i did want the JM manifold but its taking too long and as i am only going for 450bhp SP advised this kit would be simpler, easier and perfect for what i need. Apparently the std inlet flows pretty well and its also light.
The reasons for this kit are two fold, the GDI engine needs a High Pressure fuel pump(above 200bar) and these run out (depending on who you talk to) at around 350bhp, the injectors run out not far after(depending on who you talk to). Uprated injectors are available but and they need more flow. The 2.3 has 4 lobes, the 2.0 3 lobes, on its cams and a different High Pressure Pump but it was a nightmare to change to this. There are some upgraded pumps, but these cost a fortune and are untested at the RPM i want to go to (saying that the std one is too). This kit has an inlet adpator plate with 4 injector holes, and 4 bottom plugs if i want to run meth/water (which i dont). Injectors are 640cc which are big but they are std FoMoCo for ease. Also combined, ported and direct, i should be able to run about 750bhp (which i wont, yet, maybe, possibly, shouldnt do).
Sounds complicated but Specialist Components already have the software to run both port and direct injection already (so i wont need the additional controller), and most High Power GDI engines, like the Mercs, run both port and direct.
Issue will be with the mapping but i will send the engine back to Specialist Components as they have probably the most experience on these engines in the UK, so need to get an exhaust manifold making and hoping Maniflo in Salisbury can help.
I have also found someone stupid enough to take on the engine mounts, and they are local ish, so having a ready mapped engine will make their and my life easier.
The Complete Kit
The Inlet adaptor
FoMoCo Injector, which is a bosch item
Additional Controller that i dont need
Engine is being built, all parts fit......so far
Looking good. Glad to see little Paul still building it for you after what's happened.
Yeah shame i keep forgetting to get all the parts
Need ARP Main bolts nowluckily paul has the patience of a saint
So progress at last, Engine builder got a new job (after needing a break) and engine was in one place and tools in another
Anyway a month later the three of them got re-united and the engine is being built (again)
Issue i had was the Main Bearing studs, the OEM items are stretch bolts and once used you need to measure the stretch and then change the torque accordingly, so i rang Speedperf6manc3 and asked what this should be. The ever helpful, if busy, Pablo explained that i needed to fit ARP bolts.
Next problem was searching for the correct bolts, ARP catalogue number came up at £270 and no one in the UK had any, and they were 6 weeks delivery. Rang Pablo again, and asked him to ship some. Turns out the ARP bolts for the 2.3MPS DISI engine are the same as the ECOBOOST, and £175 ! Luckily i found a supplier in the UK, who also sent sweets with the delivery.....
Pauls managed to fit them this week and cams are next
Cams are on lifters as per the Duratec but they are not shimmable, instead the buckets come pre-sized. Great idea but Paul needs to fit the cams check the gaps and then order some buckets.......more delays ffs
Good news on the cams, i decided to fit the full blown 12mm lift cams capable of 650bhp and 8000rpm........just need a bigger turbo, chargecooler, radiator, bigger tyres, more cooling and the head porting.........hmmmmm
i agree but we all like jiggery pokery
Well its Christmas soon.......
Engine progress is slow, the last (please for the love of god) challenge is the cam followers. Ford in their wisdom made the ecoboost (like the duratec) with mechanical followers. They then made cam followers "un-shimmable" so you have to buy the correct followers shimmed accordingly.
Luckily i only need three, and these have been ordered direct with Ford
Then the engine needs building and dressing, flywheel, clutch and gearbox then ship it off to get a manifold made then off to get dyno'd
#nevergiveup
Good stuff how's it coming on ?
Coming on nicely if a little slow
Engine should be build soon, then need a manifold for the turbo then hopefully get it mapped
Hopefully
Well New Year, New Engine !
Its finally been built, well almost the flywheel, clutch and box need to go on and the gearbox.
Engine with the external oil filter bracket and PCV delete and breather
Without the inlet fitted
With the new auxillary fuel manifold, basically a spacer with ports for 630cc injectors and ports for meth injection
Engine Fully built
I then need to make an exhaust manifold adapter (engine has on internal exhaust manifold) which needs to have an external wastegate something like this
If anyone can make one for me let me know as the USA is the only place to get them and they only sell them as kits with upgraded turbos ffs
Worst still Garrett have released a GEN II GTX2867R which would be perfect for this engine, the current GTX2867 will run out of puff above 7500rpm.........and the internals are not interchangeable
However good and bad news, the tartan carpet has gone and we now have Brimstone
Had a mad thought today as i realised i havent fitted the custom flywheel, helix clutch (Rover T series) and gearbox (PG1 but C4 u spec) all together
It all fits, gearbox input shaft meshes with the clutch friction plate and everything seems to be ok
Obviously wont know its all perfect until its in and i have pressure on the clutch. But the signs are good
Good news is the engine is now pencilled in for the dyno with specialist components, and i have found a nice man to make the turbo adaptor. Plan is to have one made in stainless steel, to the best guess, get the engine dyno'd and hope it fits when the engine goes in. Then make one out of inconel for the long term.
Great stuff, nice carpet as well !
Its all about the carpet
Today is a good day
Custom dash is nearly ready and i was asked if i wanted a custom screen so i got a pen and a fag packet and drew, like a 5 year old, what i'd like on the back.
a few weeks later and this is what has been done, at startup the 111ST logo is shown on boot up (not for long but if first boot it takes a few moments longer i am told), at the redline the welsh dragon appears in the middle (something the designer and I share heritage from so seemed apt and its a dragon !!) and the third and last screen is as per my request. 1st is copy of std dash, for road use but all the parameters shown on 3rd screen (track screen) can be show also on the 1st screen.
Oil pressure gauge is duplicated a few times but will be replaced with air temp, battery voltage and something else.
Its all plug and play with the analogue inputs, fuel etc and plugs directly to my ECU and will show all parameters it does.
Could not be happier, and i cant thank Alex enough for doing this
https://youtu.be/rBSeaTqIS0U
So today i have the, first production dash fitted to the car and wow....just wow....i mean like wow
First off was the box
Then the contents, the dash on the top and the wiring below
I've spoken to Alec about how to control, and whilst you can use the trip reset and indicators he asked if i would like a small joystick for moving around the dash, i said yes a small discreet one with a push button so he supplied this. Idea is to have it mounted on the dash or just use it when you need it and plug it in
Next was fitting it to the standard mount
The original dash was taken out a few months ago and sent to Alec so fitting the new dash took about 30 mins
Fit and finish are pretty damn good and the graphics are awesome, the dash can take up to 6 screen designs (one of which i designed myself and Alec made for me), and then the 7th is the data logger
Took some photos, from afar, sun light was straight ahead but not direct sunlight but the dash was more than bright enough
https://youtu.be/qGOj5vBujCg
Overall very very happy and it has more features that you can shake a stick at, everything was plug and play and worked
However i dont have an engine in the car, so couldnt test drive it
Finally getting the manifold made, this was the first attempt. I didnt like how much it stuck out and how the turbo was rotated
So second attempt looks a lot better
Double post
Last edited by djwilma; 17-03-2017 at 14:41.
Always look forward to updates on this
Thanks Ben
I now have the engine at home, I need to add in some oil and water pipes to the turbo and tidy up the breathers
JEK Fabrications made the exhaust manifold, oil return and also the brace which is rose jointed to allow movement due to heat.
I have also looked at the PCV breather and added in an oil pressure sensor (only comes with temp as std) and I need to seal all the joints
Then I need a TMAP sensor, Lambda sensor and stuck whether I ship it back to Specialist Components for mapping (where their normal dyno has a long waiting list) or book it in to make the engine mounts, get the engine running (2 month waiting list) on the std map and then drive to SC to have it mapped.
Ideally I ship it to SC and they get it back in 2 months and I get the engine installed but I don't think the way the project has run its that easy
Wow, you go away for holiday and leave the car with a man and shit gets done.......why didnt i do this before
Anyways, engine mounts are now made and engine is in the car. Turbo hasnt been fitted but i see no reason why it wont fit
Drive shafts fitted all ok, no rubbing (unlike duratecs so i am told)
No idea what this lug is but seems to be ok
Wiring next
Got the inlet and the turbo on today
Looks like it was meant to be in there, lot of room for the turbo and inlet was fitted in 30 mins as it went through the inspection hole
Wiring is now being sorted and I'll plumb in the water and oil hoses when home
The new fuel pump turned up today, big thanks to Gaz at Spitfire Engineering. This (small) pump should provide enough fuel for 500bhp at 3.5bar and Gaz kindly sent me a complete unit, i have to send my old unit back. I went for the Deutschewerks pump
This will save me a swirl pot, lots of fuel pipes and i dont need the Bosch Motorsport pump i had on the T series.
Hoping to have the car wired up to the ECU and Ford Loom next week
Got the Elise out today and did some work at home
Put the engine cover on and it will be tight but the HPFP pressure sensor and the wastegate both it (when level) but need to get the rear clam on to check
I have the Duratec Silicone Hoses from Essex Autosport and tried to get them to fit. I got very confused until i realised the Ecoboost water inlet and outlet are on the opposite side to the Elise so after doing some searches (yes i know) of the Duratec builds i saw the swap of water pipes. With some pipework from the rover i managed to get it all set up
This makes it a little congested under the inlet, as the water pipes Swap over, the oil cooler water pipes, the remote filter pipes and the throttle body inlet.
Fitted the starter and it fouls the bell housing adaptor, bit strange but an easy fix
Also looked at fitting the fuel pump, and the hole is too small, i think i will go for the easy option of cutting the top rather than dropping to the tank (as no ramp)
I think it's best to say my motivation with the car is waning, work, travel, family and work on the house have ground me down.
I cant even be bothered to fit some water hoses and sort out the vacuum......its got that bad.
So tomorrow the car is off to HPE Automotive in Bromsgrove, who are well known for Honda conversions
Monday the engine is then with Specialist Components to map and see what she's got (if the turbo can give it enough air)......
Pick a power figure if your bored, I'm going with 400bhp at 11psi and 8000rpm for a giggle and 480bhp at 23psi and 7250rpm.
But today I suddenly realised I hadnt fitted the rear clam with the new engine in, and I was off to Germany at lunchtime
First fit didn't look too bad at the back
But terrible at the front
So I found the sabre saw and made it fit.
But it hit the wastegate(built when the engine wasn't with the car so can't complain)
I gave accepted I will be losing the boot so will fabricate, sorry asked Dan to fabricate something to lock the hatch too.
Boot will be exhaust as it was way too loud before
Engine lasted 10 minutes on the dyno last week, then started to have a bad misfire at 2500rpm and load. So the head have to come for a re-check
Spoke to the Engine builder today and its pretty clear whats happened
The head was coked up, one of the down sides of direct injection, so the valves were sticking.
An expensive lesson, yet again, but asked them to strip the engine, check and rebuild. They found a few minor issues and have mentioned that it may be worthwhile porting the head..........it never ends
Should be a couple of weeks to get it put back together
So some good ish news today
I havent wanted to "bother" the engine builder, Damico, as he is manic and fitting in mine between jobs for which i am eternally grateful
Luckily today he called and we had a chat so;
The engine wasnt missing, this is my misunderstood (i was in shock and at Duxford with my 4 year old). The engine was breathing badly, and it got to a point that they were not happy with so they stopped the dyno and advised the problem. With the leakage on the valves i asked them to strip and inspect the whole engine, as i knew the
The engine was coked up, see the photos below. As said this wasnt causing the engine to Misfire but was causing the valves to stick. The valves were sealing when the cams were removed, however they hadnt been lapped or cleaned. The engine just sounded sick and wasnt able to pull through the revs.
The piston rings were on the large side, but in tolerance, however the second ring had a larger gap than the first, all now being fixed
The head was in tolerance for flatness but only just, head is now being skimmed, de coked, cleaned and then ported. Sealing face wasnt as clean as Damico would of liked (polite for had gasket marks, same for the block)
The crank, and bearings, are all fine. Some evidence of a "dirty build" but all can be cleaned up and in tolerance
So I wasnt charged for the engine build (long story), but at least now i know its been done to the highest standards. I just hope the wife doesnt find the bills and this thing had better work !!!
Damico have kindly sent some shiney clean photos...........getting closer....again...again
OK results are in and dont know whether to be happy or sad.......i should be happy looking at the curve, i really really should be
Anyway.......
It’s a mixed bag of news
The engine wanted to boost, way above the 11psi set in the actuator. So the dyno removed one of the two springs and got this down to 20psi. The spring should set actuator pressure to 4psi so need to find out why this is happening.
It may be connected to the vacuum pump, this was disconnected and open to atmosphere and caused the crankcase to pressurise. Once disconnected, or sealed up, the engine was fine. Took a while to find out why but hey ho its not been done before.
Weirdly the std gdi injection was ok at 410bhp, auxillary wasnt needed (was tested and wasnt great when injects as the injector opens to much for the need) but does work if needed. Theory is 350wbhp so 400bhp is the limit, which its not as they still had some headroom.
But the major issue was detonation, at 20psi (1.4bar) the sensors were detecting knock, so the ignition was retarded to a point where the egt's got too high......This though should not happen, inlet temps were 30C so even if the compressor was blowing hot air (which its not according to the comp curve) this shouldnt effect detonation.
A theory, which i need to confirm, is that the pistons are higher than the 9.3:1 they should be. This is because i used the 2.3 crank and rods, and the 2.0 pistons. The std 2.0 and 2.3 have the same comp ration, so longer stroke and short rod should ,ake the same as they share (i hope i am right) the same piston diameter. However, the 2.3 and the 2.0 use different heads so i dont know if the volumes change to compensate.
As is normal here Dyno session finished late, so i will get more information tomorrow.
So it may 410bhp, 300lbft at 3000rpm and 350lbft of torque with a flat chunky curve with lots of room under the curve.
So i should be happy, right
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