Pinto install

[Mk2Neil]

Hi all,

I have a mk2 Ghia 1600 Auto that's had a type 9, 5 speed gearbox conversion. I'm also just halfway through rebuilding a 2 litre pinto to go in over winter. I know I'll need to cut the rad panel etc and I'm using the correct RS alloy sump, mounts and bellhousing, but read in an old Classic Ford mag that you need to drop the crossmember to get the engine to fit as there isnt much room? As it's the auto shell with large tunnel, is that still the case or will it fit straight in with the head on and fully built to mate with the type 9 box?


Cheers, Neil

[mrmk2]

You don't have to lower the x-member, just bolt it to the original place. I found it easyer to mount the x-m to the engine on the floor, and lift the engine and gearbox up and bolt it in.

[katana]

You don't have to lower the x-member, just bolt it to the original place. I found it easyer to mount the x-m to the engine on the floor, and lift the engine and gearbox up and bolt it in.

Dropping the x-member may help with gearbox / bell housing / sump but with bonnet off and Auto tunnel it may be possible without - I got mine out of a std. tunnel RS without dropping the x-member! The engine mounted to x-member has its own difficulties if you don't have a 2/4 post lift as lifting the front of a car at least 3 feet without is a task on its own!

[mrmk2]

Mine is a manuel shell and I use the type 9 with cast bellhousing. Just a little massaging where the tunnel starts in the front. And I have no post lift, just the elephant hoist. Lift the car up in the front, secure it and lift the engine and box up.

[Mk2Neil]

I have a small garage and an engine crane, so cant lift the car that high safely. Back in the day when I helped my mate with his pinto stock car, we used to drop pinto engines in with a hoist and mate them to the box so I think it will be ok. Just re read the article and they fitted the engine and box together,so that's why they needed the extra clearance

[GavinR]

My Escort (FLY) is an Auto shell and I find it impossible to fit the engine with the Type 9 box already fitted as the wing of the alloy sump fouls on the steering column, and the front of the box won't go high enough to avoid this. So I always fit the engine first, then the box second

[Mk2Neil]

Someone has suggested that it will fit if I drop the crossmember on longer bolts, so that may be an option.

[GavinR]

Someone has suggested that it will fit if I drop the crossmember on longer bolts, so that may be an option.

Yes I think that would work

[Painter an]

Had this prob the quickest easy solution is remove crossmember bolts replace with 4inch so you can drop member take steering wheel off that way you dont have to mess with steering coupleing.jack front of car up and crossmember will drop around 3inch and you will get it in no probs m8

[katana]

Just a small correction - taking the steering wheel off will achieve nothing! If you drop the x-member you have to split the column to rack joint, unbolt the column and pull it back to give clearance as there isn't enough gap through the foot well sheet metal.

Word of caution if dropping on long bolts - the captive nuts in the chassis rails are usually only tacked in place and any lateral / wobble stress and they crack off which can give more problems than getting the engine in / out!

[Mk2Neil]

Just a small correction -

Word of caution if dropping on long bolts - the captive nuts in the chassis rails are usually only tacked in place and any lateral / wobble stress and they crack off which can give more problems than getting the engine in / out!

Yep, that's my biggest fear First thing I will do is soak the original bolts in wd40 if I can get to them,and remove and grease each one. Then get some longer bolts. I take it the best method is a trolley jack under the xmember, lower the engine in,then slowly jack up the crossmember again?

[Mk2Neil]

Just managed to remove each original crossmember bolt in turn ok, coated them in copper slip and put them back,so should be able to use longer bolts to drop the member when the time comes.

[mrmk2]

Just be careful that you do not trust the bolts sideways in any directions, you may break the nuts loose inside the framerail....

[katana]

Just be careful that you do not trust the bolts sideways in any directions, you may break the nuts loose inside the framerail....

Oh and do check the thread size - everyone said yeah they are 3/8" UNF or M10. . . . . . . . . Mine are M12 - I shit you not! Obviously there has been an issue in the past!

[Mk2Neil]

Read a few threads on them breaking off, will just have t chance it if that's the way i go. Seen some people Cutting holes in the inner wing and others drilling holes with crush bolts through the rail. Wonder if drilling holes in the inner wing by the bolts (to fit a nut) and capping them with a rubber bung would work, or if that would effect the strength of the area.