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Thread: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

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    Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi Guys,

    Hoping you can help as struggling to find anyone who can answer.
    So I am building a kit car. I managed to get a Zetec Silvertop 2.0L engine already fitted with a 5 speed Type 9 gearbox.
    I am rebuilding the engine and gearbox.
    I have fitted an aluminum hydraulic clutch type bellhousing that is a direct replacement for the cast one.
    I think the fly wheel is out of a 1.8 Zetec, see pictures and its about to go to Scholar engines to be surfaced and ground.
    I am struggling to find anyone to identify which clutch to get. An LUK clutch is fine but what do I ask for? I need the friction plate, the pressure plate and thrust bearing to suit.

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    Click image for larger version Name:	20200914_180650.jpg Views:	178 Size:	130.3 KB ID:	85979
    Last edited by the_big_1; 21-09-2020 at 12:23.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi mate,

    If you are using a 1.8 zetec flywheel, then you will need a standard pinto->type 9 clutch kit. However you will need the pressure plate bolt holes drilling and tapping, as they don’t line up. And obviously this needs to be done accurately to avoid balance issues (that being said i did mine myself with a pillar drill, some verniers and a lot of time!)

    Kind regards

    Joe

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    A guy at LUK says I can use a mondeo clutch with the pinto bearing?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Yeah as far as I know you can but...ive heard a lot of people say that the clutch pedal ends up with a lot of travel before acting on the pressure plate, and in some cases the release arm pivot needs to be spaced out to decrease the clearance. This is all down to the zetec clutch kit being much narrower overall as its usually fitted in a narrower transmission.

    if you do go that route you need the thicker release bearing which i think is lucas part no ct133 (i actually have a nos one of them!)

    Personally i found the pinto clutch kit the easier option but this may not be the case for everyone!

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi ya, it was more the cost of having my fly wheel drilled and pinto clutches getting rare lol I guess the question is if the ones who had issues where using the mondeo bearing or the pinto one as I think the pinto one is thicker etc

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Without ct133 you wouldn't get a pedal full stop so im pretty sure they would have been. That said one persons issue, can sometimes be another persons ‘i can live with that!’.

    Regards availability of pinto clutch kits theres plenty at motor factors and online and I think they are usually less than the zetec alternative?

    Just remember you need an lrs707 starter motor, this will work with a zetec block, type 9 and zetec flywheel.

    Oh and add a spigot bearing too! The st170s already had one for reasons unknown, all the other zetecs need one. Thats just a standard pinto->type 9 part.
    Last edited by scortedvan; 21-09-2020 at 18:05.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    I have asked the other of pinto and zetec one.
    Starter won't be an issue, have one fitted to the engine with 1.8 fly wheel and can get new ones easy.
    If the pinto one is a good price but they don't have a thrust bearing, how do I get one?

    The crank already had a spigot bearing in it so I changed it for a new one

    Cheers for all your advice!
    Last edited by the_big_1; 21-09-2020 at 18:06.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Sorry I didnt quite follow your response - but basically your options are:

    1. Use a 1.8 Zetec flywheel, modified to take a Pinto clutch and pressure plate, to be used with a standard type 9 release bearing (cct132 i think..).
    2. Use a 1.8 Zetec flywheel unmodified with a standard Zetec (1.8 or 2 litre will fit) clutch and pressure plate with the bigger release bearing (cct133 i think..).

    Everything above is readily available both on ebay or from places like Euro Car Parts. Good luck with your build,

    Joe

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    hi ya,

    Awaiting prices from LUK to see. If the pinto is some what cheaper but a stronger clutch, would offset paying to have the fly wheel modified.
    If not, will be the Mondeo clutch with the bigger thrust bearing etc.


    Many thanks!!!

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
    hi ya,

    Awaiting prices from LUK to see. If the pinto is some what cheaper but a stronger clutch, would offset paying to have the fly wheel modified.
    If not, will be the Mondeo clutch with the bigger thrust bearing etc.


    Many thanks!!!
    the very early 2.0 silvertop mondeo had a slightly larger dia plate and cover which fits , ( they made a cable clutch version i think !) i may have part no in my mk2 zetec resto thread i cant remember ( 2nd project under my username)
    on my westfield i used 2 different ( looked identical ) zetec units but first didnt work but no idea why.
    always used the cct133 capri bearing. mine was cable clutch so if yours is hydraulic you will need a bearing and spacers to get the concentric cylinder in correct position.
    one more - knowing for sure what flywheel you have helps lol, measure contact face back from the block when fitted as a REF.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    If your flywheel's going to Scholar Engines for refacing then surely they should be able to supply the correct clutch kit for the job. Incidently what alloy hydraulic bellhousing are you using?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi all,

    So the bellowing is a RWD aluminum housing where the cable is replaced by a hydraulic cylinder. Fly wheel looking like a pinto fitted to a retro Ford lightened flywheel. Pinto clutch coming from LUK direct. Only bit now is do I need the rs2000 clutch fork or will the standard one I have work just as well, whats the difference between them. Also, Retro Ford have a release arm pivot, whats this for?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    If it's a genuine RS bellhousing you are going to need the corresponing pivot pin and clutch arm as these are different to the Cortina items as fitted to the cast bellhousing. Where abouts does the slave cylinder bolt to, side or rear of the bellhousing. The end of the clutch arm might need modyfying for the adjuster rod to fit in that comes from the slave cylinder.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi,

    Its not an RS bellowing, its a standard sierra one just in aluminum. Where the clutch cable normally mounts, a hydraulic cylinder mounts. There is a rod with this that fits perfectly in to the end of the standard fork. I guess the question is, whats the difference between the two forks?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Ment to be standard bellhousing but can not edit lol

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
    Hi,

    Its not an RS bellowing, its a standard sierra one just in aluminum. Where the clutch cable normally mounts, a hydraulic cylinder mounts. There is a rod with this that fits perfectly in to the end of the standard fork. I guess the question is, whats the difference between the two forks?
    In that case you don't need the RS clutch fork.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hi ya,

    Didn't think so, RWD said I did, but when I asked why, said I probably didn't lol

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
    Hi, its a standard sierra one just in aluminum.
    Where did you source that? Not heard of alloy bells other than RS2 versions - could be a good alternative, and obviously if you prefer a hydraulic clutch!

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by katana View Post
    Where did you source that? Not heard of alloy bells other than RS2 versions - could be a good alternative, and obviously if you prefer a hydraulic clutch!
    I'm wondering the same thing. Burtons advertise one, but obviously it won't be genuine.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by rallyrob View Post
    I'm wondering the same thing. Burtons advertise one, but obviously it won't be genuine.

    Ford Rallye Sport did an alloy bellhousing circa late 70's with an hyraulic clutch set up.I wish I could find my RS spares catolouge of period to check it out. There's one thing it would have been very expensive as all genuine RS parts were.

    There was a company called Quickbits from Nottingham in the 80's and they had their own alloy sumps cast and possibly bellhousings too.

    I have an alloy Twin Cam big wing sump that I bought 40 years ago and to date no one has managed to identify its origin or make.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by Forest_rallying View Post
    Ford Rallye Sport did an alloy bellhousing circa late 70's with an hyraulic clutch set up.I wish I could find my RS spares catolouge of period to check it out. There's one thing it would have been very expensive as all genuine RS parts were.

    There was a company called Quickbits from Nottingham in the 80's and they had their own alloy sumps cast and possibly bellhousings too.

    I have an alloy Twin Cam big wing sump that I bought 40 years ago and to date no one has managed to identify its origin or make.
    Really, I didn't know.ow that.
    Funny though as I've got a Magnisium alloy RS bellhousing I've never seen another one of those either.

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    Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    I have attached a pic you may get to see it of an rs one they are about 300mm in total

    Sierra is longer I think I have one somewhere if I find it I’ll measure it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    I guess if the only difference is the sierra is longer and fits perfectly to my hydraulic cylinder, the RS one would be to short?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    I originally got it from RWD. They don't have the hydraulic version on their website now???

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by wildo105e View Post
    I have attached a pic you may get to see it of an rs one they are about 300mm in total

    Sierra is longer I think I have one somewhere if I find it I’ll measure it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Picture


    RS2000 and Sierra clutch forks are the same length
    The difference is the Sierra one is a lot wider where the forward bend is (on the right of the picture) then has a step inwardsto where the cable attaches
    On an RS2000 bellhousing, the wider section fouls the bellhousing when the fork is pulled away from the clutch, so the clutch is always slightly released
    GavinR

    http://www.turbosport.co.uk/signaturepics/sigpic2999_8.gif

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
    I originally got it from RWD. They don't have the hydraulic version on their website now???
    Do you mean this one?
    https://www.rwdmotorsport.com/produc...bellhousing-2/

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Yeah thats it. Issue i have now is with the master cylinder or 0.70, the clutch doesn't feel right, hasn't got the flick at the end. Unsure if a bigger or small master cylinder. Net says on brakes, the smaller the master, the greater the force ( about of effort to move about of fluid) dictates it. But how about slave travel?

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    Hydraulic theory doesn't vary between brakes or clutch - if you need greater slave movement you need to move more fluid either bigger bore master or longer stroke via longer pedal movement but with possibility of less / heavier feeling pedal.

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    I always convert the flywheel to pinto clutch, I find this gives you several good clutch options

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    Re: Zetec And Type 9 Clutch

    You can also increase slave cylinder piston travel by using a smaller bore slave with same size master, though it can give you a harder pedal. Depends on where the fulcrum point is on the pedal. I use a Anglia slave cylinder .75 bore on modified RS2000 bell and a .75 master to run a RS1800 ARP Zetec clutch. Pedal is very light, but this is on a Corsair. I did have to shorten the overall length of the slave piston by 5mm though, as initially it popped the piston out of the body. Was a simple fix and has worked fine for the last 5 years. Adjustment is by threaded rod between arm and piston. Picture of mocking it up on the bench.

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