O yes, make sure you have the right configuration for which side your exhaust is running, I didn't and had to cut out the towers and refit.......doh!!!!
O yes, make sure you have the right configuration for which side your exhaust is running, I didn't and had to cut out the towers and refit.......doh!!!!
Thanks, that's a point I may well have overlooked.Originally Posted by waverunner
Towers are miles out, especially the N/S one (which is the short one in this case as I'm going for R/H exhaust exit).
i cant remember what drive train your fitting but that gearstick hole is way back on standard ?Now looking more like a car again.
Watts Linkage (the more expensive kit from MST) towers are miles out and need plenty of work.
Don't know whether to take the car home and dry build it including any drilling and cutting that comes with that before stripping again and sending for paint, or getting it painted right now and being very careful with the drill when rebuilding.... I'd be interested to know what you would do?
Pinto and a type 9. Engine and box bolted up before making the gear lever hole so it should be ok.
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i have fitted a t9 using the square hole in auto tunnel - unmodded. with a std shell only 1/2- 3/4 of the tunnel strengthner needs trimming out , yours is removed going on pics so no ref to this but the hole is way back from auto hole.
If you zoom in on pic you can see the original auto tunnel hole (where its welded up). About half the new hole overlaps where the auto hole was, so the new hole centre is about 2" back from the auto hole centre.
Engine back out the car now but looking at the pics with the block in it does look to be sitting far back against bulkhead leaving me wondering if the head will clear the heater bubble lip.
Everything should line up ok but definitely worth a closer look before final paint to be sure.
So maybe after all I'll do a full dry build before final paint. (Not got enough money left for paint anyway so not much choice in the matter).
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Are you fitting anti tramp bars?
and a question from me too ( maybe both of you will be able to help )
i notice you have gone for gaz shocks - i have been looking at early fitment ones myself and it seems to be gaz or AVO for sensible money.
any reason for your choice ? any info on pros and cons ?
No reason at all mate and I don't know how they'll perform. Out of all the shocks currently available the Gaz seemed to offer most bang for buck, and being adjustable you can soften up for the drag strip and play around with settings for the road.and a question from me too ( maybe both of you will be able to help )
i notice you have gone for gaz shocks - i have been looking at early fitment ones myself and it seems to be gaz or AVO for sensible money.
any reason for your choice ? any info on pros and cons ?
On top of that there seemed more limited options available for early fitment types and these were less than half the price of Bilsteins.
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No.
Did plenty of research on this forum before deciding to go with this set up and concluded anti tramp bars were not necessary.
Using my questionably dodgy (see pics earlier in this thread) leaf spring set up I've never suffered from axle tramp anyway.
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I'd seriously reconsider with regards to tramp bars, its all about axle location. Your going full on restricting sideways movement with the Watts kit but your not addressing the axle twist movement, and believe me, with any increase in standard 1300cc x flow hp, you will get twist.
I have Gas shocks too and can't praise them enough. I'm running a LS1 cams, BDG with your set up (with RS anti tramp) and in all honesty, going round a circuit with sticky tyres, the car handles like a dream.
i would also recomend anti tramp bars, in my opinion they are an absolute necessity. fit them now before paint and its an easy job ( other than axle is finished !)
I honestly think it should be ok as with the inverted leaf spring set up I never previously had tramp anyway. Unless of course the addition of the Watts kit induces tramp because the energy no longer has anywhere else to go.
I think I'll stick with just the Watts setup, maybe (you have got me thinking about it now) but will equally come back and say I f*cked up if I'm wrong and it tramps all over the place!
Last edited by RS2OOO; 11-11-2021 at 16:56.
at least fit chassis brackets, you dont need to use them ( but you will once you drive it)
Ok, I give in, tramp bar kit being ordered tonight.
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You gave in easily........your misses must love you!
You won't regret it..........
Tramp bar kit arrived from Motorsport Tools today - with Rally Design part numbers on the components. Could have saved £12 if I just bought from Rally Design!
Yea, there are a few parts like that from various different suppliers.
She must do, she was stuck for a Birthday present so paid for the Anti Tramp Kit!You gave in easily........
You won't regret it..........
And now fitted:
And Firewall welded up airtight:
Fabrication work all finished pending a dry build where I'm sure a list of new things to fabricate will be found.
Tucked out the way in a container while house move in progress. Things likely to go quiet on the rebuild front for a good few Months now.
How is this coming along now?
I seem to have caught and overtaken you. Albeit standard arched.
IMG_8929.jpeg
Hi mate,
Yours is looking good! Overtaken me by a good margin.
I've not done a single thing for over a year.
Moved into a doer upper House, which is only about 50% done so far, but I have been collecting bits and pieces for the car. Not a day goes by without me thinking about it.
I've saved up the cash to get it painted, which brings me to the dilemma.....
Do I continue with my original plan to dry build the car first before sending it off for paint, or do I just send it in for paint knowing that will properly motivate me to get it built?
I know the first option is the better one, but struggling to get the mindset and the time to do it.
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