Project more door aka the sh!++3$ for autotests, drift days and road rallys

[freddy686868]

lined up ready for run 3










this is run 4 as there is steam coming out of the bonnet

[freddy686868]

These are my two favourite pictures and I actually got nominated to have the second picture given to me for improving and no longer driving "like a minge" and being the most sidewards out of 30 people on the day.



a cheeky thumbs up too!

[freddy686868]

well back to the depressing side of things. The three fooked engines I have the one in the car is seriously ill too but I drove her home and will have to put a new battery on her and check the alternator is charging properly before the 28th of December.

I have decided to forge the engine with custom made pistons (either 90mm or 91mm bore so I have a 'square' engine like the 2.0l engines) and some nice chinese H section steel rods with a bit of head work done by myself, nothing too much just a little clean up of the castings. I will stick with standard cams for now due to money being a little tight I had only put £500 aside for the standard rebuild not for the forged parts and boring of the block. I know what most people are thinking about the chinese rods but I have done loads of research and I haven't found one that has failed yet. They are being used in 400 bhp turbo lumps and 8000rpm n/a screamers so I thought if they do that they will be fine at 6.5K/7K in my car. They were only £189 delivered to my door too and come with arp rod bolts! Bargin. So after Christmas I will be in touch with JE pistons to make me a custom made set of pistons to the spec of the old ones just 1mm or 2mm bigger in diameter.

[freddy686868]

Also a quick question for all the engine gurus out there is there any advantage to having a 'square' engine where the bore and crank throw are the same In my case it would be 91mm 91mm? Also I have always believed that you bore the block after you receive the pistons and send them with the block to be machined out to fit, but someone on the rs2000-16v forum has told me to bore the block out to remove the damage then tell JE pistons the size of the bore which I don't like the idea of. Any help welcome.

[freddy686868]

A few more pictures i forgot. One of my mate curl posing with 'his mothers car'


And a few of when i got the scort home safe and sound without melting a piston

[caprimentle]

Bore to the pistons mate, you can get it index bored, that means the machinest will suit each bore to each particular piston seeing as the chances of each piston being exactly the same diameter isn't always the case. Regards to bore and stroke i think its more to do with torque curves. A longer stroke lowers where the torque is in relation to the revs due to the longer throw on the crank and the force of the rod pushing round on the crank creating more leverage/force/torque, but the piston has further to travel creating more friction and heat killing the torque at high revs therefore a shorter stroke lifts where the torque is on the rev range due to opposite reasons. so a bigger bore kind of makes the stroke shorter in relation so it should bring the torque further up the revs making it rev quicker but the larger bore will give an increased torque figure due to the larger capacity and more then likely helping air breath better around the valves. So being a square engine you basically get the best of both, or however you want to see it lol

[urchy107]

Cool car mate, gets used proper too

[freddy686868]

Bore to the pistons mate, you can get it index bored, that means the machinest will suit each bore to each particular piston seeing as the chances of each piston being exactly the same diameter isn't always the case. Regards to bore and stroke i think its more to do with torque curves. A longer stroke lowers where the torque is in relation to the revs due to the longer throw on the crank and the force of the rod pushing round on the crank creating more leverage/force/torque, but the piston has further to travel creating more friction and heat killing the torque at high revs therefore a shorter stroke lifts where the torque is on the rev range due to opposite reasons. so a bigger bore kind of makes the stroke shorter in relation so it should bring the torque further up the revs making it rev quicker but the larger bore will give an increased torque figure due to the larger capacity and more then likely helping air breath better around the valves. So being a square engine you basically get the best of both, or however you want to see it lol

brilliant thanks for explaining that! I thought that was the case with boring to suit the pistons a 1mm over bore will take all the damage out of the bores easy. i will be going for a 90mm bore instead of 91mm as i means i will need a custom made hg if i go to 91mm. It should rev a load better any way as the 4 pistons and rods are 2k lighter than the standard ones! i can't wait for the rods to turn up so i can start designing the pistons.

[freddy686868]

Cool car mate, gets used proper too

Thanks for that. You have to use them properly or there is no point in having a toy.

[freddy686868]

this was run 4 of the autotest
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZvHX4GbuA8

and this was run 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PffCPeHSxcc

[freddy686868]

Well I have the rods and I have measured/weighed them all And what I have found seams to be great!
Specs are as followed

Rod 1
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8893 inches
Big bore 2.1236 inches (0.0033) roundness
Small bore 0.8127 inches (0.0028) roundness

Rod 2
Weight 0.5972kg
Length 5.8861 inches
Big bore 2.1257 inches (0.0015) roundness
Small bore 0.8136 inches (0.0008) roundness

Rod 3
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8805 inches
Big bore 2.1251 inches (0.0013) roundness
Small bore 0.8169 inches (0.0017) roundness

Rod 4
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8824 inches
Big bore 2.1245 inches (0.0012) roundness
Small bore 0.8160 inches (0.0005) roundness

[freddy686868]

The weight on rod 2 is now 596.6g as I balanced it. And the figures are not there best because it was very difficult to keep thenrods still on the surface table whilst measuring the centres with the faro arm. I measured the dimensions with spring gauge and a mic and the roundness WS good on them not 3 thou as one rod states.

[freddy686868]

http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/fr...tml?sort=3&o=0

[trig]

Top job bud.

[freddy686868]

Top job bud.

Thanks trig. I doubt I will be making your next track day too! you will see why after my update in a bit.

[freddy686868]

right next was to strip down the head and see if there was any micro welding due to the higher exhaust gas temperatures. Which there was! a bit more crying later all the valves were out







so after I had stripped the head I looked into porting the head. looking at the head it seams to flow pretty well but after some digging mainly on the rs2000-16v forum I found a complete thread on how to port a head so I will be following this to do my head at some point as there are some key points to remove material from which make a big difference.

[freddy686868]

Done a local auto test down llandow yesterday too and came 18th out of 27 people so I am slowly moving up the ranks and getting to grip with the car although the car was getting sicker by the run. Here are the photos so far there will be more to come





the best picture of the day this really is full tilt!

[freddy686868]

first run of the day recorded on the gopro.
I was a little cautious on the first run and there wasn't as much skidding as I would have liked in this autotest as it was a fwd set up really. The video doesn't start until 1 min In as the timing light were on the wonk.

run 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbqYvsJwI2g

run 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVqum5HHrVo

run 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmMMU0mkuXw

on run 3 I spun on the bottom but the battery was playing up on my phone to control the gopro

[freddy686868]

filling up the radiator between runs!




another picture of one of the runs

[freddy686868]

Then on the way home she started making a loud ticking noise like pressure coming back through the carbs. not long after she ground to a halt. My mate had to pick me up with the trailer and I stripped the engine today and found one hell of a mess in the cooling system!











took the water pump off and found this


due to detonation/pinking the head gasket had went between cylinder 3 and 4 which I thought wasn't too bad. The confusing part was I couldn't find out where the head gasket had broken through or any cracks in the head allowing the two to mix or anything where the cylinder pressure could be getting into the water system! weird!



any way I took a look at the head next and found this which amused me a little





considering how much the engine has been pinking there was very little damage apart from some small cracks in the head between the valves and spark plugs.

[freddy686868]

last but not least my mrs in my fiesta derv

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtO7KtGfVrI

[Nobbymk1estate]

you crazy bastard! surely filling it with water between runs you clocked there was an issue but kept on at it haha fair play

[freddy686868]

you crazy bastard! surely filling it with water between runs you clocked there was an issue but kept on at it haha fair play

It has been ill for months and months. It ran the last 2 autotests with out water totally! But it was getting to the point were it wouldn't run with out water last off so i had to put water in it. It has been pinking for months too. One run for about 1.30seconds on an autotest it pinked all the way round. These engines are really really tough fair play!

[freddy686868]

Ah reminds me of the days when the capri was running well going down essex's country lanes . Running on would be more than a return spring problem on the carb. Generarly when it runs on a part of metal or carbon is glowing red hot still in the combustion chamber and it is still burning the fuel being pulled in threw the carbs. Common problem with old leaded pinto's and crossflows when ran on shitty 95 octane petrol. It burns at a hotter temperature so cylinder temperatures are much higher and things start glowing like valves and seats or even shitty bits of carbon on the piston or head.

Fixed the running on problem too. I put the second spring back on the throttle linkage. Doesn't mTter now though as the lump is properly dead!

[rwd2ltrfiesta]

another 1 bites the dust, any clue as 2 y?

[freddy686868]

another 1 bites the dust, any clue as 2 y?

There was oil in the water ways for a while now and it blocked all the rad as i found out when i flushed it. Which caused it to over heat and start pinking. When something starts pinking it finds the weakest way out which was the ally head.

[caprimentle]

lol thats fooked lmao, love the colour of the coolant, top job

[freddy686868]

lol thats fooked lmao, love the colour of the coolant, top job

As you know i do try my best. Just need to try and get the capri out for the autotest on the 1st now :-P the 2.8 scrapper that is.

[gorilla1q]

Never thought it would do that to the head rather than a gasket blimey

[caprimentle]

is there a chunk out the block in the same place too?

[freddy686868]

Never thought it would do that to the head rather than a gasket blimey

It did do the gasket first I was making a quiet ticking sound all day but the only difference in the running of the engine was getting her started. It must have burnt the head out on the way home then.

[freddy686868]

is there a chunk out the block in the same place too?

Nope the block is fine I'm guessing that is because it is steel and the gasket and ally head were the weaker points.

[evans2822]

Nicely fooked up

[freddy686868]

Nicely fooked up

I do try. He he.

[freddy686868]

Well I have the rods and I have measured/weighed them all And what I have found seams to be great!
Specs are as followed

Rod 1
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8893 inches
Big bore 2.1236 inches (0.0033) roundness
Small bore 0.8127 inches (0.0028) roundness

Rod 2
Weight 0.5972kg
Length 5.8861 inches
Big bore 2.1257 inches (0.0015) roundness
Small bore 0.8136 inches (0.0008) roundness

Rod 3
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8805 inches
Big bore 2.1251 inches (0.0013) roundness
Small bore 0.8169 inches (0.0017) roundness

Rod 4
Weight 0.5964kg
Length 5.8824 inches
Big bore 2.1245 inches (0.0012) roundness
Small bore 0.8160 inches (0.0005) roundness

wasn't happy with the small end measurements so i measured the big end and small ends using the good telescopic gauge and external mic. Got some much more accurate results!

rod 1
small bore 0.8126"
big bore 2.124-2.1232

rod 2
small bore 0.8125
big bore 2.1241-2.1235

rod 3
small bore 0.8128
big bore 2.1232-2.123

rod 4
small bore 0.8125
big bore 2.1233-2.1233

the roundness on the small ends is perfect but the big ends are a little out. Nothing to worry about really. the worst one is 8 tenths

[freddy686868]

More news i have a set of piper 300h cams on the way along with some uprated single valve springs and i have done alot of work on the top wnd of the engine. Still loads to do though!

[freddy686868]

Pictures to follow.

[freddy686868]

All the exhaust valves polished but there was still pitting on the sealing face.

[freddy686868]

So as you csn see the exhaust valves were pitted when polished upso i tried to get them ground up but the guy i know had no 45 wheels and no way to grind up a wheel to 45 so i thought can you turn a 45 on them ? Which to my surprize you can! So i set the compound slide to 45 and used a small rad tool to machine them all and they came out perfect.



I then polished the inlet valves in the lathe and again they came up awsome



And last but not least i learnt yesterday you can dismantle hydraulic tappets to clean out all the old oil and 'reset' them. So i done that and they were filthy inside no wonder they sometimes stick on other engines

[rwd2ltrfiesta]

sweet am watching cosely, where you get verniers or u ganna make sum?
are the tappets a easy job 2pull apart?