Looking down the throttle body to the inlet i wasn't happy with the shoulder it hit ao i blended it out to match the 48's there is a slight rad on the inlet not a straight shank so the air flows somoothly into the inlet instead of hitting a shoulder about 1mm each side. So the air will still be disturbed but not hitting a wall.
That's the idea any way
No photos of the finished inlet yet
You need to loosen off you manifold and move it a tad then it will have a smoother flow
If I were you I would get a new manifold fabricated up with larger ports that are angled to the same as the inlet port of the head
Originally Posted by Andrew@ALD;u2290591
Yeah i might do at a later date. At the moment i am using the one made for the webers a flat type manifold. We will see how it goes with that. I know the boys on the rs2k forum are using the angled type inlet with good results but they are for the rs2k heads with out the water port on the side :-/
Well after speaking to someone on the forum there might be plans to bolt a 6 speed rx8 box up to the new a
Engine it would be a shame not to use the tran x though!
I was thinking when you were on about the size compared to a type 9 the other day what It would take to fit one...
Do you know the ratios John and what's Involved to fit It?
basically you should be able too pull of in second on the flat but you always have first. I has closer ratios than a type 9 but 2-6th is pretty much the same as a tran x type 9 1-5th. The rx8 first gear is close to a standard type 9 ratio too so it is like having the best of both worlds a short 1st for hill starts and a standard type 9 5th 0.84 as 6th and a load of close gears in between.
rx 8 box
1st --- 3.760
2nd --- 2.269
3rd --- 1.645
4th --- 1.187
5th --- 1.000
6th --- 0.843
tran x
1st - 2.48
2nd - 1.69
3rd - 1.27
4th - 1:1
5th - 0.87
Last edited by freddy686868; 18-03-2014 at 01:00.
Cool I will look Into that If my type 9 goes tits up
Let me know the engine goes when it's up and running.
this might be of interest to someone on here I know it is to me!
plenty of room for the flywheel
ooooooo the clutch fits!
so does the spigot bearing!
Last but not least comparing the actual gearbox sizes
I have also had my ally carb tank converted to injection too! By Zackham Engineering and the work done is very high standard as always!
I had to buy a shiny new part too for the new pump and filter set up in the boot.
Well i was a happy boy when i got in from work today (vernier in hand) and thats not inuendo. These beuties were waiting for me after about 5 weeks of waiting for them!
Way too shiney for my liking!
A nice thick rib for strength ans i noticed the pin mounts are inboard i'm assuming it is to keep the strength in the center of the piston and pin length down reducing the pin weight maybe.
A nice 12cc crown in them. I will have to remeber that the crown isn't centeral when fitting them into the engine too. :P
Some new vs old now i just hope they work!
I'm going to weigh them all up soon with the pins and rings to see if i can match them to a rod so they are all of similar weights.
They also come in under budget too which has been rare in this engine build.
Next up is to order the head gastket, bolts Timing chain and other items. I am hoping to have the engine in the car by the end of next week!
Well i weighed them all with the rings pins and the pin circlips and they were all within 0.002grams of each other! And the piston diameters are all with in 0.004" of each other. Now just to match them to a rod to make them perfect.
All matched to the pistons
Block is also having a pampering it has been chemically stripped and is going for a paint and a rebore monday :P
Spottless
Outsides looking good too
Last edited by freddy686868; 23-03-2014 at 00:15.
I have decided to have the full bottom end balanced too whilst it is at the machine shop as i have heard it makes a big difference. Can anyone tell me what the binifts are of a balanced botoom end are please?
Balanced bottom ends can possibly increase bearing life, lets say the flywheel was well out balance the rear bearing would want to wear more quickly, also the idle rpm will be a little more steady, apart from that no difference, usually std balance is fine unless using very large rpm's over 8k
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Enzo Ferrari
im with jason.
very little benefit in my opinion! assuming you dont have any major weight differences in rods and pistons.
over the years i have had numerous engines which started out balanced and over a period of time they have had rod changes, flywheel changes, flywheels further lightened, then swapped for lighter steel ones,which were then further lightened, and then further lightened, even crank swaps, so ended up baring no resemblance to the original balanced article, could i tell the difference? no, infact one well known rr operator commented how smooth the engine was!
i did recently have a vw 92.7mm stroke crank and flywheel balenced, mainly because it had a cast flywheel from which a machined 3kgs of material off and i figured the long stroke will show up any imbalance worse and that cast flywheels don't have the same consistency of material in terms of density as a billet steel one, and its going in a rally car which will see 8K
when they came back the crank was practically untouched, and although the flywheel did have more balancing drillings in it, it had far few drillings than it came from the factory with, i had actually machined away a fair bit of the imbalance!
for fast road/mild competition engines which are only revving to 7-7.5k i dont bother. neither do i when using billet steel cranks and flywheels
Thanks for the input guys. I don't think i will balance it now as it sounds like a waste of £160 as i am only runnig a 91mm stroke and if it revs and makes power to 7.5k i will be surprised. Well thats a timing chan kit and a head gasket kit instead of the balancing. Just in time too as i'm dropping the engine off tomorrow for boring and honing.
Not checked in ere for a while, can't wait to see what you get out of the engine, or how long it'll last, these engines are started to get noticed abit round my end, I have 1 to put in a mk5 fiesta and I trying to speak a customer into having 1 in a trike instead of a pinto, and possible get mine done,,
Any way top thread,,,
You should of sent me your crank to be lightened and balanced, I've done loads of them with good results..
well I got the block back from the machine shop and fair play I paid from a rebore and rehone and that is what I got! The block was stinking, how they made such a mess just taking 40 thou out of the bores I will never know.
Any way I measured the bores and they were cock on so that's the main thing
gapping the rings
pistons out to play
head out to play
crank going in
pistons on the rods
rings on the pistons
full gasket set
new timing chains
piston number 1 in
all the pistons in
head gasket is plenty big enough for the new pistons
sump 'modded' to clear the new rods and arp bolts I'm glad I turned the engine over at every stage to check the rotation of the bottom end now otherwise it could have been messy
oil pump chain fitted
head fitted and timed up
bottom end timing mark
Great work as always mate
thanks. I left out the part where an old helicoil stripped out the head on cylinder number 1 spark plug when it was fully built up!
It resorted in me stuffing a load of rags in the inlet ports covered in wd40, leaning the engine over, greasing up the tap to catch the swarf and cleaning out the threads and inserting a new helicoil, a bit annoying when you have to do things like this on a 3k build!
well I have cracked on with this over the last two days and this is as far as I have gotten.
all thrown in the back of my brothers new truck
engine went in about half an hour after I unloaded it with the help of my mate Lloyd and the good old mini digger it was in with in 10 mins
there isn't a great deal of photos over the next steps but the box and prop are back on and all oiled up gearstick on and the injector loom has been added and tested which I'm glad to say works fine
I moved on to cutting a hole in the tank platform for the new and improved injection tank and working out where to place the fuel pump and filter and I have found the place. Purely based on what rubber fuel pipe I had hanging around
exhaust and alternator set up back on
bodies fitted hehe
and finally the injector loom fitted
Christ that was quick lol
Bet that engine was a walk In the park after the bag of cogs and a gearbox casing great work...
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