Only info I found on this was the Burtons web shop that stated 110 lbs/ft (150Nm) but that seemed very low when torqued up. The stub axle nut on an old focus is torqued to 235Nm's (173 lbs/ft). Is this really the correct torque spec, should I just leave it at that?
"Failure is always an option." - Adam Savage
I'd like to know this too!
I posted this question on my build thread too and Fossie replied as follows:
"Do you want an honest answer?
2 reasons why you shouldn't do these nuts up F.T. (f*cking tight):
1) you're likely to snap the end clean off the shaft; the steel isn't actually very strong.
2) there's no point really. The flange butts up against a wheel bearing, which is glass hard, yet the flange is soft steel. Doing the nut up tight will just peen/mushroom the end of the flange over. It'll do this with time anyway, but seriously, going OTT with the big nut just makes it worse!
Put a little graphite grease on the taper on the back of the nut, then loctite the threads, and give it 110 lb.ft. - you can't really do much more than that
It is worth keeping an eye on the nuts - as the inner face of the flange starts to peen over against the wheel bearing, you'll lose the torque on the nut. The nut won't have moved (your paint marks will still be in original place) but rather the flange will have "shrunk" a bit. Given the sort of races you do, and the surface you run on, I wouldn't worry about it - it's not like your wheel will fall off."
Sounds like 110lbs/ft it is. I did use the F T method with me previous axle but they were custom made shafts from a highly renowed finnish manufacturer. The flanges were off the shelf items though.
"Failure is always an option." - Adam Savage
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