Subs and stuff...
as the song goes.. 'I'm totally addicted to bass...' not that techno stuff either
Anyways, I bought this 300W sub with a built in amp today, some american make cant quite remember the name but its carpeted on the outside and has a cute little window so you can see the speaker inside. It has several connections on the outside.. these are
Live 12v..
Gnd
RMS (or something like that, could be rst.. )
I have connected these as follows, live to the 12v one and rst/rms whatever, and the earth to the gnd. Is this correct? it was the only way I could get it to work..
And there is a line in, phono jacks which my sony head unit does not posess so left them.
Also has a set of four speaker connectors, which I have connected my speaker wires from the stereo to. Something like 'speaker level input' is written by them and the usual L + - etc. Is this right also?
The reason why I'm asking all this is that although the bass is superbly car rattling, the quality aint that good..
Anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
Paul
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Re: Subs and stuff...
I used to co own a bass box design company and wrote for fast car magazine, the RMS wire is the Remote Switch and should be coloured blue from the back of your stereo.
can you post a pic of the amp ? it may help.
You could simply be overdriving the amp has it any adjustment, also have you connected the + - speaker leads correctly on all speakers as there may be a phaseing problem.
Also how is the Bass being split from the rest of the spectrum has the amp got a low pass filter on it if not this is probably your issue the bass amp and speaker is trying to recreate high bass mid and high tones.
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Re: Subs and stuff...
I'll geta pic to you tomorrow clint..
It has gain and frequency adjustment, the gain is at half and the freq at three quarters from flat out.
Speaker wires are the right way, it goes quiet if they are mismatched!
The amp has a low pass filter, only lets the bass through!
This remot wire, I take it it turns the amp on when the stereo comes on? May be worth looking for that one..
Cheers
Paul
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World Champion
Re: Subs and stuff...
If you have the live connected to the remote connection the amp will be on permantly, Unless your live is a switched, if it is remove it. The feed for the amp wants to come direct from the battery. (with a fuse as close to the battery as possible...dont want no fires now do we )
If your head unit doesnt have a dedicated remote turn on wire (as clint said its normally a blue one) you can use a switched live from somewhere else in the car (eg the switched live for the head unit)
Try moving the sub around in the boot and have it firing in different directions as this can make a difference. (one i had in my old festa sounded best firing at the back seat from about 1" away).
Play with all the buttons etc and you will soon see what everything does. Dont forget after adjusting something listen to it with the boot and doors shut (sounds obvious but ive know people try and set one up with it open)
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Part of the furniture
Re: Subs and stuff...
I always find that the best Remote is from the Electric Aerial wire off the back of the head unit! If not as Slim has said the power will be constant to the amp and you will find you have a flat battery every morning!
The phono jacks are not needed as you have the input wired direct from the speaker wires so all thats left is to set the gains and the frequency!
If the speakers are distorting or are too loud turn the gains down! This is kind of a power switch to control how amplified the speakers actually are.
As the others have said tho, just play around with the settings till happy
Kieron
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Re: Subs and stuff...
If you use the electric arial wire you must use a relay the output is not rated high enough on most radios to use it for an amp remote.
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Roland Rat
Re: Subs and stuff...
I wil stick to singing to meself!
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Part of the furniture
Re: Subs and stuff...
I never knew that Clint! Never had any problems myself but you learn something new everyday! Your CV above says your more qualified than me to answer tho! :-)
Kieron
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