Yes standard tunnel ,I will need to adapt the tunnel to accept the gear stick tower and I had to remove the old g box mounts might need to remove a couple of casting lumps on the box just to aid clearance and convert to hydraulic clutch but just bought a rx8 master for 10 quid on ebay
Custom prop then we are away
So what starter are we using with this box mated to a blacktop zetec ?
I think people are using a pinto starter motor
Essex Boys in da house
Ok , im going from Zetec/2000e to Zetec/ RX-8 so i will try whacking the starter over the other side, otherwise its a pinto/type 9 starter required.
Quick Question - on the RX8 gearbox which way does the hydraulic actuator work, pull towards the front of the car or push towards the back of the car when the pedal is pressed. Trying to work out how easy it is to convert to cable, if the former pretty easy, just needs a lug added to the adaptor plate it the latter a bit more tricky.
Thanks
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
It pushes to the back of the car
With that combo it will really depend what you have. 2000e box normally has an inertia starter on a 2 bolt fitting. If you have fitted to a zetec it depends on what flywheel etc you used. The starter will need to go on the left as it sits in the starter space on the rx8 bellhousing although doesn't fix to it.
If that all makes sense
So does the starter not mount on anything solid when using the conversion plate?, it just mounts on the thin plate and not the bell housing?
Yes which is why I asked about the noise mine was making I still haven't bolted the gbox up yet to see off that helps
It does but the plate is i believe 6mm thick and is clamped and bolted between the block and the gearbox, also it sits nearly in the same place as the rx8 starter (ford engines anyway) I wouldnt imagine there is much room for flex etc
Last edited by wildo105e; 17-12-2015 at 21:56.
The best way to do it is to cut a hole where the normal ford clutch arm comes out. Make a pivot point on the gearbox for the mazda arm to pivot on. Weld a tag onto the plate or bolt one on and your away. I have never done it but that is how people who have done it have described it.
The dowel/anchor point for the gearbox will stop any 'flex' in the plate when the starter is engaged as it is very close to the starter motor mounting point. But i haven't got any of the dowel/top hat anchors in my set up as i lined it up when i put it on and clamped it down. I didn't have the top hats made at that point. I wouldn't recommend starting the engine with out the box on as it is sure to pull the plate with out it being sandwhiched between thw box ans the engine!
Do you think i would miss something that vital. It is solidly mounted/bolted to the gearbox right next to the starter possition on the sold kits. So it won't 'kick' or move any where. I haven't got round to fitting the top hats on mine yet and that still works fine, i just wanted to make sure on the kits that are being sold it would be solid. You should stop making stupid comments or asking silly questions buy the kit fit it and then make comments or ask questions on solid facts.
Stupid comment, hmm! Well it only came from yours earlier lol
Forgive the scepisim but we've seen a lot of things, wheels splitting in two, gearboxes breaking, engines being run with no coolant, axles twisting out of shackles, solid brake pipes splitting where flexis should have been..........
Re: rx8 gearbox?
Quote Originally Posted by maskedavenger View Post
Yes like it's not meshed correctly
This starter has been I use with this flywheel on a type 9 in this car for 4 years so I know what it used to sound like
My starter is louder than it used to be but i put it down to it being mounted to a thin plate and the plate vibrating ans amplifying the starter noise as i have stripped the whole lot off and could not see any binding/grinding or swarf or any other serious issues. I hope that helps.
Last edited by freddy686868; 13-12-2015 at 20:03.
Last edited by Erikmex; 17-12-2015 at 23:15.
There is a difference between what i do on my car and what i would do to fix another persons car. If i do a job on a another persons car it is 100% otherwise it isn't worth the hassle of doing the job in the first place. Sometimes you put a temp fix in place on your car and forget about it until there is a problem again. Such is life.
I don't know everything unlike some people. But i know this much. If people are using psycho plates with out problems so far they will be no problems with anyone using my plates at all. There is some junk out there for sale and better items for sale. I like to think i sell the better items. You have no problem with the product i know this. Your only picking holes in it because i made it. You did slate the psycho plates....... All you do is pick holes in things i do because i couldn't care less what you think and i am normally giving smug answers to your normally unnecessary and boring posts. I suggest you sit in the 1980's with your pinto engine and type 9 box and watch the world try new things and push the limits of newer and better technology. We don't know how much these boxes will take or how long they will take sub-stained abuse but there is no way you will find out crying on a forum all the time you just have to do these things.
My rx8 box has lasted 4 times longer than my type 9 would have with the the 'mk1' plate fitted and it is still in good working order. That is good enough for me.
I kinda like being stuck in the 80's with a pinto and type 9, I've been through westfields, 2 grp4 cars, cossies, evos etc, I went back to simplicity, a steel plate isn't exactly technology is it, we were making these years ago to fit Suzuki engines in Novas for rallying. I was only responding to yours and another guys posts about the starter motors making a racket. Seems you didn't bottom that one out before starting to sell stuff.
How about putting some threads up showing the above for everyone to see you're unrivalled wisdom instead of trolling the site looking to pick holes and criticise everything you see fit lol......
Don't want to cause offence it's just that's the way you come across like
The whole point of this thread was a good budget box to replace the expensive type 9 which it is? Freddy had a plate found it was useless scrap and made a lazer cut precision part which he sells for a similar amount as the scrap metal ones and now that's not good enough?
His car is being used with his plate (less top hats which only improve it) which proves it works fine other than him pulling gold bullion from his arse I don't see what else you want him to do?
L A steel plate with a couple of well possitioned holes in isn't a new thing but putting a gearbox off a rotary engine on the back of different engines is. Regardig the starter noise it is not a bad sound it just amplifies the sound of the starter, but you wouldn't know that.....it doesn't bother me as you don't drive round with your starter engaged all the time so you only hear it breifly where you have to use your gearbox and change gear all the time. You can't have it all.
Have you looked at bolting on a bracket that bolts on the gearbox split line behind the clutch fork and pulling it back with a cable from behind. I will have a look at tunnel clearance but this may be an option, will need a long clutch cable that goes forward then back and then forward again but may be easier, the sierra clutch cable is pretty long IIRC ? Thoughts ?
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
I wouldn't like to run a cable any longer than i needed to really, you could try it easily if you had a grp4 tunnel as there would be loads of room to go down the drivers side over the gearbox and back to the clutch arm and make a bracket. I think it is just one of them things where everyone will have a go at doing it their way.
Cheers, I've got an anglia 105e with a large tunnel, type 9 fits fairly easily so may have a go as this is the easiest option and then go for the clutch arm if that does not work.
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
Now this is all in and tight it seems much better the gear box supports the starter cut out in the plate
I did have to drill a couple of extra holes as I'm using a front bowl sump don't think the escort boys do ?
But all said and done it fits a treat and freedes plate is nicely made with dowels etc
Quick question, anyone know what the RX8 6-speed speedo output connection are (Signal, Earth, 5V, 12v?), what signal it puts out (square wave) and at what frequency compared to engine/propshaft RPM. Just need to check compatibility with my speedo/dash.
Thanks
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
Very good question
I knowmit is not good form to answer your own question but I have just been out and checked out the two "sensors" on my gearbox. One is a neutral switch and one is a reverse switch so looks like there is no speed sensor on the box, will have to do the magnet on the prop shaft version when I swap to this box.
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
No speed sensor on the box, like mentioned above one is for reverse and the other one is for the gearbox oil temp. The RX8 takes a speed signal off one of the front ABS rings from what I've read.
a correct answer from anyone is good enough for me lol.
You'd be better using a front wheel speed sensor, that way you won't have to factor in prop speed minus final drive ratio and the speedo won't fly up when you spin up the wheels.
Got my hyd clutch working last night collected the prop from engineer almost ready for a drive
Cool keep us updated 👍
Right so i have the box in and bolted up behind my zetec, using Retroford flywheel and pinto clutch (raised fingers) with mazda release bearing.
The bearing is pushed right back in the BH with no front/ rear play which i dont think is correct
I measured the depth from clutch fingers to block, 110mm and the box face to release bearing face at "rest" 100mm.
So anyone else had this issue, and if so whats the way round ?
cheers Paul
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