Lol just looked Can't seem them anymore
Lol just looked Can't seem them anymore
Just some feedback on my rx8 box fitment. Got one of freddys plates and can confirm that they fit a treat. I have a mk1 escort 2dr with a 2l zetec with retroford mounts using the standard mk1 escort crossmember. I also have an automatic tunnel.
So what have i found out.
First i could get the gearbox in the standard auto tunnel with no cutting other than the gearstick hole. Although i could not get it low enough to get clearance for the clutch slave.
There isn't quite enough space. Someone on here has the same engine in but using a worldcup crossmember and that seems to give the extra clearance but my sump from G19 would fowl the steering rack if it was any lower so i resorted to cutting a little nick out of the tunnel.
Other than that it looks the business.
For those already running one what are you guys using for a speedo as i believe this box has a sensor in it and wondered if its compatible with all the aftermarket speedos?
That's strange because mines an auto shell and I've got plenty of slave cylinder clearance!!! I'm using retroford mounts but with a wcxm so maybe that's why?
If your using an Ashley 4-2-1 you will probably have to shave off part of the bell housing for it to clear.
Got me intrigued now so I've just been out to the garage for a look.
I got my plate from the other bloke before Freddy was producing them and although the fit was pretty sloppy I've now sorted that one, but what I did notice was that my gearbox turret slants towards the drivers side so gives me better clearance on the slave cylinder.
I had one of the old plates by phyco or whatever his name was, the fit was so bad only two of the bolts lined up, but comparing them before i fitted the new one the gearbox is rotated round more upright. I have only had to modify the tunnel slightly so the old carpet should still fit which is all i was worried about.
Whats your plan for running a speedo davemk1?
Last edited by Mad Max; 16-01-2016 at 09:42. Reason: speeling
I don't know yet. Somebody mentioned a drive that runs off the prop but I've not looked into that yet .The other alternative is a GPS one. Probably not legal but better than nowt!
Mazda takes road speed from the wheels/abs sensor, there is no take off on the box only a reverse switch and a park/neutral switch.
Dave what are you using for a clutch, i have fitted my box on to a blacktop using the Retroford flywheel with a pinto clutch (raised spring fingers) and the Mazda release bearing.
Small problem is that the release bearing is fully back but jammed right up against the clutch plate with no play ?
cheers Paul
i bought a lightened flywheel, clutch plate and cover from retroford along with a hydraulic release bearing as i was originally using a type9. Whether or not the hydraulic bearing uses a different/shorter cover i wouldnt know! i didn't ask him for anything specific, I just let him choose what he knew worked! might be worth asking him if he does different ones.
I dont have your problem with the release bearing (which is the mazda one), i had to put a washer under the fulcrum pin to take up the excess play i had in mine.
The only thing is that my adapter plate is 10mm thick but i dont think that would make much difference as nobody else seems to of had this problem with the slimmer plate(assuming you've got the decent 6mm one)
This may sound like a dumb question but originally i just bolted the cover to the flywheel without the clutch plate underneath. This was only to get the height of the fingers from the block face so i could see how much gap i would have between fingers and bearing when bolted to the box but i soon realized that putting the plate in lowers the fingers when tightening the cover down. You wouldn't of done the same by any chance would you?
Thanks.
Hi Dave, thanks for your reply, i have the plate in so fully set up. I will give Dave Colledge a call and see if he has any ideas.
cheers Paul
Right, i spoke to Dave who was very helpfull, however he is not familiar with the RX8 install so after pulling the box out again and measuring the stack height of the clutch and the depth of the release bearing from the bellhousing face i still came up 10mm short.
I could gain some room at the rear of the release bearing so i removed the clutch arm pivot and ground back the casting this kept the same angle on the pivot but moved things back towards the box, there was a little more to be gained from feathering the rear of the bearing as it was hitting the arm at full back.
Put the box back in and with the bearing arm at "rest" it was still touching the clutch springs,by pulling the arm towards the engine i know have approx 5mm clearance so i will need to hook up a return spring in order to keep the arm fully retracted.
So it would seem that i am the only person that has had to do this so far, i am using the same standard size Ford parts as others so i can only assume that my gearbox must be different
cheers Paul
My clutch release bearing is up against all the pressure plate all the time. Are you trying to stop them being in contact all the time? As long as there is 1mm of slack in the arm it doesn't matter if the release bearing is touching the pressure plate. Aslong as it isn't tight or putting pressure on the pressure face when it is at rest it won't matter.
Last edited by freddy686868; 20-01-2016 at 20:13.
Hi John, afaik the release bearing should not be in contact with the plate all the time, dont want it doing 7k rpm and melting
Are you using the rx8 slave cylinder? If so just put a spacer between there and the clutch arm. Or machine a bit off the slave cylinder plunger That will hold the release bearing just off the pressure plate. Like i say 1mm or so will be fine. You don't want to be a million miles off the pressure face or you will have mad pedal travel.
And what about the concentric slave cylinders that have a spring in them to constantly press on the pressure plate to take the slack out of the system? I ran a retro ford one for a while in my car with no problems of it melting.
Last edited by freddy686868; 20-01-2016 at 22:15.
Yep will be using the Mazda slave, i need to get the pedal box back in and pressurise the system to see where it will all finally end up, im not familiar with the concentric bearings and didnt know they were under constant tension. All the mechanical ones i have put in before ran with a gap, as it stands there is now room for movement in the system, worst way i can always put a washer behind the pivot and shift it forward again. Got to speak to BAR props tomorrow and get my prop ordered
cheers Paul
What box n axle r u using as need to know how long prop should be cheers
I'm guessing 49 ish inches ?
I'm using the 6 speed mazda and atlas and i think it was either 47.25 or 48.25". I can't remember. The best way is to measure from the gearbox seal to axle diff flange. Also a good note for information is i used the same prop (length and all) when i used a big flange english axle and an atlas axle.
Cheers same set up as me once I get axle built cheers
1st gear should be fine not to low as I'm running 255 40 17 tyres n 3.75 ratio axle
Yeah. All of the travel of the slave is taken up when you put the box on. It moves back under pressure around an 1"- 1-1/4" in slave cylinder travel. Even all the cable ones are resting on the clutch pressure plate/fingers as it is that pressure working against the foot pedal that brings the pedal back up. I have had it a few times where i have put the pedal down to change gear and it hasn't come back up as the pressure plate fingers have gone weak or broken. Also BARS props are the boys for this. They know what end to use for the rx8 as they have done around 6/7 when i last heard off them for this conversion after they done mine for me.
Last edited by freddy686868; 20-01-2016 at 23:58.
Just for reference my standard t5 cosy box is using cable clutch and the cable moves 1 1/8 " full pedal travel
Big wheels then! I just pull of in second with my 13" wheels or 1st for tight turns or steep hills. Pretty sure it is 47.25" but if i was to do it again i would go the extra 0.25" longer. Don't forget to tell them what points your measuring from and too so they can add extra on for the total length. I think i had 46" gearbox to flange. My memory is crap though.
Cheers once I swop it all over will sort the prop cheers
My prop length will be 42 .75" in an Anglia 105 with an English axle.
This is my first post, so big respect and thanks to youse for sharing the knowledge!
As it happens I was reading an article that could perhaps provide someone more knowledgeable and/or resourceful than me with a possible clue as to a place to start looking into the cable drive speedo issue.
Clearly the previous RX7 box had one, so it may be a possibility. (maybe more likely on the RX8 5 speeder, but you don't know till you try, do you?)
"However, it wasn’t all plain sailing. Vitesse did have to work out how to fit a mechanical drive for a speedometer to enable anyone having their gearbox replaced to retain their original speedo and genuine mileage. Owners who have their gearbox replaced with an MX-5’s can even put their old one back in should they want to sell the car as original."
link: How Mazda gets the classic British sportscar into gear
Now, to be clear, the article specifically says
"Morgan, Caterham, Ginetta and Westfield all use the five-speed gearbox from the outgoing MX-5"
Maybe that will inspire someone.
There must b a simple way to get a mechanical speedo drive from the rx8 boxes ?
Anybody ?
Hello everyone I would like to add my congrats to all who contributed to this thread its been very interesting.
I've also been looking at the various options for the mkII escort and I also think that the mx5 gearbox could be the answer. It has a mechanical speedo so it would resolve that problem. The only other modification that is required would be to reduce the gearlever position by 4" which is reasonably easy to do.
Freddy686868, as I can't yet send a PM would you please give me a call on 01753868537 or PM me as I've a good number of things I'd like to discuss.
Derek
Has anybody got any pictures of their cable clutch solution, can't decide weather I should go cable it hydraulic as my bias box is for a cable clutch.
Also, has anybody successfully fitted an rx8 box to an xe yet?
So no one has fitted an rx8 box to an xe yet?
Looks like i will be the first then.
The MX5 gearbox has a different input shaft spline than the fords so if you are putting it on anything other than a Duratec (which was used in the mk3 MX5) then you will need to sort out a different clutch setup, not sure about spigot bearing as well. The reason this thread is about the RX8 is that it has the same input spline/spigot bearing as ford use and so can use all of the ford clutches. I think the MX5 mk3 was also slightly angled and so is not ideal for classic fords.
Hope this helps.
1968 Ford Anglia 1.7 Puma engine/Escort front/5 Link rear/RX8 box
http://www.Anglia1968.weebly.com
This is the reason I want to bolt my Duratec to the rx8 box as the mx5 box costs at least twice as much and puts the shift lever at an angle whereas a simple adapter plate can have the engine and gearbox level and everything else will fit. I'm sure the splines are the same though as I think I tried a pinto clutch on the rx8 box and it fitted fine
Mx5 mk3 6 speed gearbox is same splines as ford the 5 speed isn't
^^^^ this is what I meant lol both clutches fitted fine
rx8 5 speed alloy gearbox, just weighed one of these boxes , a wopping 46kg thank god i didnt buy one , it did have the alloy bellhousing attached but sill thats a lot , the type 9 is aprox 33kg , so i will abandon that project , i think the 6 speeds must weight even more ,
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