hi Eric nice strong looking g/box is H pattern or sequential ? looks alot bigger then type 9 !! thats going to be one tidy engine bay when you get it finished
All the best for 2015 Happy track days
Gerry
hi Eric nice strong looking g/box is H pattern or sequential ? looks alot bigger then type 9 !! thats going to be one tidy engine bay when you get it finished
All the best for 2015 Happy track days
Gerry
Gosh you have throw your cheque book at it LOL ! 2 more gears to play with should just keep pulling and pulling , can you change ratio if need be ? keep up the outstanding work i'll catch up for a looksy next time i'm down lynns .
Vids on YouTube search Trig bishop.
Nice driving and the 60g looks good
Small update, had to cutup trigs gearbox mount to suit my tunnel and wait to for the replacement mounts to turn up from Bradley Motorsport, these turned up Friday so sorted out the final alignment for the tunnel brackets so the all main alignment is sorted, finally think the escort is getting somewhere now.
One of my sons xmas present to me nice bit of wrapping
Mounting it the boot make the pump work harder.
I was told by Pace to mount a oil tank as close to the engine as you can.
Passenger footwell i suggest
A.L. Developments Fabrication and Engineering
Cylinder head ported and polish work for
Ford Zetec, ST170, CVH, 2.0/2.3 Duratec, I4, Volvo Modular head I'E Focus ST/RS 2.5, N/A YB
XE, Vag 1.8 20vT, Vag BJS/BML, Vag AGZ/AQN ,F4R730 172/182, C1J TurboWill take on any other heads
https://www.facebook.com/pages/AL-De...46552508744383
https://www.facebook.com/andrew.lindley.716
great progress and some great work. There was some chat years ago on here about under bonnet or boot etc. Some like HT racing like them under the bonnet but i think it came down to packaging issue rather than performance. How many cars have boot fitted tanks and are fine ? A custom tank under the bonnet saves a shed load of cost on the pipe work.
I think you just pick your option and go with it.
keep the updates coming.
In the bay for me
A.L. Developments Fabrication and Engineering
Cylinder head ported and polish work for
Ford Zetec, ST170, CVH, 2.0/2.3 Duratec, I4, Volvo Modular head I'E Focus ST/RS 2.5, N/A YB
XE, Vag 1.8 20vT, Vag BJS/BML, Vag AGZ/AQN ,F4R730 172/182, C1J TurboWill take on any other heads
https://www.facebook.com/pages/AL-De...46552508744383
https://www.facebook.com/andrew.lindley.716
Getting closer to start the engine build 1st thing was to check the arp main stud to dry sump pan clearance, turns out mine is no exception the end of the studs foul the Titan dry sump internal baffle tray, 2mm is needed to remove with a 65 degree chamfer to finish off.
Sorted
I am going the tried and trusted way with a pace dry sump tank in the boot the only downside is the cost of the hardware, the inner wings are just to good to be cut up.
Nice
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
I have that custom made oil tank here still buddy
By kind permission of the wife the engine is being is built at home in the kitchen got a nice spot next to the radiator, got to keep the damp out of those bores
Following the Caterham 260 build manual one of the 1st jobs was to de-burr the block
So after hours deburring and cleaning the block it is all set up ready to start the build, been looking forward to starting this, has got to be one of the best jobs.
Oil gallery rivets drilled out for cleaning and replaced with alloy bungs, the gallery's had some dirt build up so was worth the effort.
Started with the checking the rings gaps, borrowed a nice ring gap tool( thanks steve) clamped this to the kitchen chopping board worked a treat 2-3 hours later and with help from one of my sons all sorted.
Modified the old water pump and made a alloy plate to blank off the hole going electric water pump so not needed
Fitted the mains shells correct alignment is time consuming affair to get right, trail fitted the crank and all oil ways line up to the journals
Need to add the block is now at 88mm all machining was done by Steve at Roland Alsop to very tight clearances, using Supertech pistons and Manley rods with the crank keyed to suit.
Very nice.
'68 1100 Deluxe-bog stock soon to be a twincam rep.
Engine coming together nice. Hope to see what power it makes when done.
A.L. Developments Fabrication and Engineering
Cylinder head ported and polish work for
Ford Zetec, ST170, CVH, 2.0/2.3 Duratec, I4, Volvo Modular head I'E Focus ST/RS 2.5, N/A YB
XE, Vag 1.8 20vT, Vag BJS/BML, Vag AGZ/AQN ,F4R730 172/182, C1J TurboWill take on any other heads
https://www.facebook.com/pages/AL-De...46552508744383
https://www.facebook.com/andrew.lindley.716
Nice build pics
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Few more pics of the work on the interior, all the holes in the floors welded up and the seat bars welded in next job is to get the rear glass removed to finish off the firewall. I will get this painted soon hopefully
Looking good buddy. Done anything with the box yet?
Lol I remember doing that too pmsl.
nice project, engine is coming along nicely
metal work looks great
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Good progress and nice box for it. I have waiting 69g in my room for future projects You will be driving this way before I drive my mk1 duratec, keep it up
BTW, one question regarding ARP studs. Have you honed the crankshaft bore with ARP studs tightened to correct torque? I intend to use those also in my engine buildup, but will be honing the crankshaft bore at the machinist shop to get it round, pretty sure it will be out of round little bit with the studs and bigger clamping force. And I read somewhere that you should use extra wide washers for the nuts to prevent alloy distortion, they are pretty small when you look the oem bolt flange.
Last edited by Sultzi; 25-03-2015 at 10:14.
one question regarding ARP studs. Have you honed the crankshaft bore with ARP studs tightened to correct torque? I intend to use those also in my engine buildup, but will be honing the crankshaft bore at the machinist shop to get it round, pretty sure it will be out of round little bit with the studs and bigger clamping force.
Yes I did install the arp studs before the block was honed not sure if it is realy required to be honest.
Would have been good to hone also that crankshaft bore in the block. I'm pretty sure it will go out of round when you tighten those arp studs, because that different clamping force they give. And due also from that different kind of washer in them. I always hone that crankshaft bore when bolts have changed from original ones. Also I think why people are saying don't put arp on the studs is because of this, they don't hone the bore like it should be done. I just wan't to make sure your engine stays fine. If that would be my block, I would take it back to machinist for that honing to be done. Strange that your machinist shop didn't say about this?
Maybe it isn't much out of round, but just to be sure I would do it. Expesially with all alloy block.
Last edited by Sultzi; 25-03-2015 at 20:44.
Never heard of anyone "having" to hone the crank bore, that includes a couple of professional Duratec engine builders on pretty big bhp engines. The Duratec crank bore is pretty stable with its caged design
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
I dont know of any cases where the arp main stud kit has caused the journals to go out of tolerance to a extent where machining would be required
Bookmarks