We have have had all the talks about brake upgrades are they any suspension upgrades for a mk1 escort (front and back).
AS my escy doesn't feel to stable at the front with the harder springs, teflon ARB bushings and negative camber.
We have have had all the talks about brake upgrades are they any suspension upgrades for a mk1 escort (front and back).
AS my escy doesn't feel to stable at the front with the harder springs, teflon ARB bushings and negative camber.
A; have you stripped the car out?
B; what do you want to do with the car?
C; 2 part question, a1, can you weld? a2, can you ship the car here?
of course that is standard procedureA; have you stripped the car out?
B; what do you want to do with the car?
C; 2 part question, a1, can you weld? a2, can you ship the car here?
it is my road car (Might eventually rally it, if i sell my other mk1 shell)
Yeah i can mig and arc weld.........and dont think i can ship it there.
........Also the car has 185 lbs front springs and fairly hard shocks to the front.
taking weight out of a car uprates the springs,,,,
rally it? rally cross, forrest, gravel, tarmac, rough, smooth,?
ok i'll go for tarmac smooth, you can have anywhere between this;standard, and this, shortened fully adjustable 2 1/4 coilovers, spherical top mounts, adjustable tca's, 2x ARB's with sliding link for adjustment,, and at the rear , a fully floating atlas with 6 links, fully adjusable 2 1/4 coil-overs mounted in GP4 turrets, to make the most of this suspension, you need to seam weld the shell, have a fully welded cage picking up on all the suspension points, with extensive triangulation to further the rigidity of the shell. Spring and damper rates are all down to a first guesstimate, and then testing, short straights and tight corners on smooth tarmac, go soft, long sweeping bends go hard.
Without knowing a budget, its hard to tell what you need/afford. But you should look at linking the rear and getting the dampers upright, that involves shell prep, and this should allways be the first mod. The front end is all bolt on so can be done at any stage of the cars life, if your not fitting a weld in cage then you must seam weld the shell. its a cheap mod and with a 6 point bolt in cage, it will stiffen the shell a great amount.
might go for a 6 point cage.....but since it is my road car now i'm just thinking about 4 linking it and gettin a single piece prop.
Was thinking about rear turretts also, but can i put in the turrets and 4 link of sum kind and still keep my back seat.
Ps. what parts are needed to fully rebuild a mk1 steering rack.
How do ppl fit 2 ARB's?
with machined alloy blocks
My Escort was turreted with a back seat - had to modify the seat a little bit, but with a cage you don't use it much anyhow.
Also you can get people in the back with the crossbraced cage - they won't be over comfortable but who cares you'll be driving.
Also you'll get a lot more out of a panhard rod in terms of handling than a 4 link kit for a fraction of the price - I ran panhard, anti tramp bars and single leaf springs (135ib from one of the vans) with a fair defgree of success...
does anyone have a pic/info on how to fit two ARB's to an escort mk1??
will standard mk2 escort rear leaves (3 leaves) lower off a mk1 escort when fitted? Will they also give a stiffer (better) ride?
Multi leaves are the choice as long as your not off to the forest, they give progressive springing unlike the single leafs.
kool
Well.....Im not trying to be a C#@t, but....the single leaves offer a lot.Multi leaves are the choice as long as your not off to the forest, they give progressive springing unlike the single leafs.
Not only are they progressive, via their trapazoidal shape in plan, eg they taper, but they are thicker and thinner, side on.
This provides their progressivnesssss.
Also, due to their greater thickness at the axel mount area etc, they offer good lateral stability. Some say almost as much as a panhard rod.
Tis food for thought.
ARB question:
When using the anti dive kit do u still use the 2 ARB setup?
Or if u use the 2 ARB setup is a Anti dive kit needed, or to implement both into the system is a good idea??
the twin arb set-up is for long sweeping smooth tarmac, depending on what your doing with the car if the roll stifness is to stiff, then you'll lose grip, on bumpy, average roads the car needs to be complient, also in tight corners.
To see an example of stiff front, loose rear, take a look at dave brodies rs1600, always cornered on 3 wheels, the rear digging in and the front wheel was just helping the steering at the back.
For what you are going to be doing with your car, don't worry about a twin arb, just go the tried and tested route,
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