I`m nice and clean and tidy down there
Steering Geometry
cut long story short...
track rod ends....shagged
replaced with new...lock nuts shagged
replaced with new.....go to get tracking sorted
guy at local place says he has no info to set tracking...i`ve got the info from hayes will this be enough???i.e. it gives toe settings and camber and castor in mm not degrees is this a problem?? if so can someone please post degrees..from my (vague) memory i think toe is pretty neutral??
thanx in advance (if any replies)
Weasle(chrisa)
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Racer
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Way too much free time
Re: Steering Geometry
If their gauge only does it in degrees, he should have a chart or book with the (mm) and (degrees) in it. You give him the mm, and then he can look up the list till he finds the right mm, then he'll know the degrees.
On escorts though inbetween 15 mins to 1 degree works, that said the book says (from memory) up to 8mm toe in. (0-8mm toe-in) But Rs models say less, 4mm I think , which on a 15" rim is .35mins.
Some one must have a Dunlop conversion wheel out there....
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I`m nice and clean and tidy down there
Re: Steering Geometry
oops sorry that`s the trouble with computers and Newcastle Brown Ale. It`s a drain on my resources
it`s a 1972 1300xl ish mark 1
cheers
Weasle
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Re: Steering Geometry
You can only set the track (toe) unless you have some really tricky adjustable suspension on it. Camber and castor are a whole other story.
The tracking info from the Haynes manual will be fine unless you have uprated the bushes etc. You want to be running a touch of toe in on a rwd, with less the stiffer the suspension rubbers are. If in doubt set it parallel and keep an eye on the tyres. If it's wrong you'll get a saw tooth wear effect on the inner/outer edges.
As regards going for a degree of toe in/out - Bloody hell!! This is something that you might do on a race car to compensate for a poor suspension design (I.e. Make it feel better / bwe better in turns). Bear in mind though that on a race track you only want the tyres to last 50 / 60 miles and with a degree that's realistic. Plus of course it will not go in a straight line - ever. Which again is not a problem on a tight and twisty track, but it might get a little galling on the M25...
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Re: Steering Geometry
I run 3 degree's cambre, 3.5 degrees castor and toe out 45minutes....
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