Can someone explain what they are and what they do, please.
Are they worth fitting and how easy is it.
Can someone explain what they are and what they do, please.
Are they worth fitting and how easy is it.
im sure gary will be along to tell you
they stop the axle tramping,they are extra locating bars from the axle to the underside of the body,they stop the axle tramping,which is when you boot it the axle will not bounce up and down,or less than normal,drive one hard without them,then one with them fitted,its hard to explain it.
Incorrectly called Anti-tramp bars as they dont cure tramp. Tramp is when the torque of the wheel acting on the road wants to turn the diff nose up, the spring resists this to a point, once the spring is wound up and the diff nose rises to a point where the torque applied is overcome by the spring, the wheels break traction and the diff nose slams down... its then all repeated again. This is what causes the wheels to hop up and down in the wheel arch while the car sounds like its banging itself to death... which it is.
Anti tramp bars, correctly called Radius Arms limt the diff nose raising as much, so the distance it travels is less... say half, which means you get 2 tramp action instead of one... or a higher frequency of the tramping action, its this higher frequency that makes the tramping feel less violent, but its still tramping. Perhaps the should be called "slightly less tramp bars"
I dont fit them, as they are buggers to remove once welded into position, I stopped fitting them after i had removed a few when customers came back for proper 4 linking, ie 2 radius arms per side which stops the nose of the diff raising, so elimating tramp. Why did they come back for 4 linking....
" It still tramps"
" Told you it would"
Dead easy to fit, which is why they are common, if you can weld. All export H/D, and RS shells have them... export shells had them as tramping is more common on dusty or unmade roads, and as RS shells are just export shells with tunnel mods they had them too.
Fit the brackets, then fit the arms in the bracket, put the axle brackets on the other end, set the axle at ride height and tack the axle brackets on, remove the arms and fully weld the axle brackets on... paint it all and refit the bars, take the car outside and pull away .... yep it still tramps .. said it would:p
Last edited by Retromotorsport; 02-11-2005 at 21:36.
Here is a non MSPaint picture- drawn abit better than garrys
Thanks guys, after your advice gary, I will save my money. The reason I asked is that the rear of my car seems to move about when coming off or on the throttle, making the back end wander about, didnt know if this might cure it
I used to have a Sunbeam Lotus that used to do that, replaced the suspension bushes, the result was amazing, bearing in mind the Sunbeam was a rebodied Avenger, go buy a set of Poly Bushes for the rear end,
Ian
I need this....my axle nose whacks the floor under moderate throttle and above, im not sure whether to 4 link, but as the car is coming out of the garage with 22 psi (extra 8psi) of boost, i fear it might be worthwhile. lol
Dont want to hijack, and i dont think i am, but how big a job is 4 linking? Can you buy the parts to 4 link it cheaply enough?
export H/D bars are a bit different type from RS-shells. no welded brackets, just bolt through chassis rail and softer bushings. they help absolutely nothing, just extra weightOriginally Posted by retromotorsport
Ok agreed Tepi, buy yopu do have the threaded bush in the chassis rail, AVO had to add something to an export shell to make the department worthwhile, and that was the bracket on the outside, aftermarket ones have a nut welded to the other side... and the gearbox hole on the 2000's, think thats all they did, oh and a badge on the slam panel
Tepi, one other thing, the exhaust bracket under the rear seats, does the export ones have a plate about 150x150 welded on the inside to support the exhaust bracket? if not then thats another bit added to RS shells
there is no thread in chassis rail, it's bolt through and nut. piece of tube is welded to chassis rail, just like with late rear antirollbars.
all my shells are german origin, and never seen strenghtening plate inside. if i see british export shell, i'll check it
german shells are a bit different, for example extra cut-out for battery in engine compartment.
Gary you say not to bother and go for 4 link, but what happens for people like me who cant afford a 4 link and dont want to cut massive holes in the floor and lose the back seat?
I was planning to put tramp bars and a panhard on mine just to help a keep the axle located a little bit better than the cack arb i took off!
Help!!!
If you dont want to cut up the car, then anti-tramps and panhard is the best you can do at the mo.
Because of Andy Pipes engine trouble, we did'nt get a full seasons racing on his rear suspension, once we have fully tested it we may start making it in kit form so that it is entirely bolt on (andy's car has welded brackets on the axle) and i want to do some work with GAZ to get 4 sets of Coil-Overs for it, Road(light)/4 passenger road/Trackday/Race. The kit will bolt into the anti-tramp and spring hanger brackets, its not ideal but early conclusion is that its better than Leafs and Anti-Tramps, with the ability to change ride height and spring rates easily. I belive Puddy's Cortina has this type of 5 link
Just spotted this. Any further testing been done? Have you decided whether to make these kits Gary?
Old thred ,but.
just to help keep the axle located a little bit better than the cack arb i took off!
Help!!!
The arb was never put there to locate the axel......it to contain body roll.
I can see how the European arm will work better, with the "void" in the bush, allowing the needed fore aft movement of the pivot.
Those bushes look like capri arm ones.
i was just looking through the forums and i know this is an old issue, but i was also interested in some Anti-Tramp bars for my MK1, but when i called the suspension workshop they told me to save my money, get my leafs reverse eye'd and add a booster spring to make it a 5 leaf set up and this will eliminate most of the tramp and the car will be able to take alot more punishing through the corners and launching off the line.
I was told how ever to put a panhard rod on as it will keep thing dead centre.
but hey i am just new to this, so don;t listen to me.
Reverse eyeing the spring is a way of lowering the car , you bend the eyes down so raising the spring in the chassis.
Does nothing to stop tramping (allthough it takes out the lower blocks if fitted which will result in less tramp, a little)
A booster spring normally fits on the spring section behind the axle, and it the front section that bends and snaps back causing tramping . Also raising the spring rate can cause the car to hop and skip over even mildly bumpy roads.
A panhard rod by its nature of swing in an arc cannot hold an axle dead center, as can be seen by getting a rule and swing it from vertical through horizontal and to vertical again, if it was a 12 " panhard and the axle traveled 24" the axle would move sideways by 12"
A 24" panhard moving through 12" of travel would move the axle 3" etc
So to say a panhard keeps everything dead center isnt right .. it maintains a known arc of movement thoughout the rear axles travel.
I dunno, you could go to this place and have it all fitted and then try it, if it tramps and hops around on the road then you may have some comeback on them.. ie if the car drives worse than before then they havnt done their job.
On the same hand if your roads are smooth and you drive really fast all the time through sweeping bends you may well find it works .
Personally without linking the car I would reverse eye the springs and fit Radius arms (anti tramp) with the panhard, thats a good road set up.
know of a company that reverses the eye springs gary??? - being a daily i still need to use my back seats
http://itsalmosttime.co.uk/blog/
Reversed eye comparo and additional half leaf added to front section, works well
Last edited by Roger Miller; 16-08-2006 at 13:35.
An additional question
Maybe anyone knows what the length is between the holes for the anti pramp arm. For Escort Mk1
Greetings
you need to specify if along the rod or in a parallel plane ? ( although it wont be much different )
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