Gartrac bias box/power steering

[rsminter]

Anyone got the Gartrac bias pedal box and running power steering in a mk1 escort, or know if it fits together?
I currently have a homemade bias box and power steering and it fits fine, probably about 1 inch clearance between the
master cylinders and the power steering unit.
Looking to upgrade to a Gartrac bias box as mines a bit old now and cylinders are leaking but have heard there can be issues
with some bias boxes (not necessarily Gartrac) having enough clearance for the power steering unit.
Its a lot of money to spend if the two wont go together.
Any advice much appreciated....thanks.

[Graham]

Im not sure anyone is going to be able to answer you, there are several power steering kits and a lots of diy versions all done slightly different, so how will anyone know if it will clear on yours?

[Mkdu]

I have a mate that run powersteering with a rally design pedal box, but he did the steering himself, he had no issue to fit.
As Graham said, so much kits exists.
If I build a new car, I'll go for a pedalbox onto the floor, much easier to replace a cylinder... but not cheap, a lot of people use tilton ones
personally I run a Rix pedalbox on my MK2, very well made. one with cable clutch and than moved to a hydraulic clutch.

[rsminter]

Went for gartrac in the end,fits fine with my power steering.
Just having issues with the throttle pedal now, hardly any travel from zero to full throttle and very stiff.
Could do with lowering the cable on the pedal to give more pull but would mean routing cable through inner wing,
as the nipple on the brake pedal will foul the bias box,so would need to mount nipple on the outer edge of pedal.
i could slot the pedal like the mk1 and cut the end off the cosworth cable and try that, or get the pedal to go back inside
the bias box and use original cable hole in bulkhead.

[katana]

Lowering the cable on the pedal will REDUCE the cable pull . . . . . . the attachment needs to be further from the pivot if greater travel / pull is required! This assumes a std shaped throttle pedal lever ie, L shaped, pedal on one end, pivot in middle and cable attachment on other leg at the end?

[rsminter]

Decided to modify the pedal to go back inside the bias box and use the original cable hole
in bulkhead.
Nice smooth easy pedal and greater pedal travel, will post pics in case it helps someone else out who
encounters the same pedal problem and might do similar.

[rsminter]

[rsminter]

[rsminter]

[rsminter]

[rsminter]

Ok back again,more issues after sorting the throttle
Decided to put the bias box in for final fitment today all good.
Connected clutch cable and started to adjust it at the gearbox end and the adjustment kept going until i was almost at the end
of the thread and the cable to clutch arm was still loose.
Had a look inside the car and the clutch pedal was right up, a good 6 inches above the brake pedal
Should there not be some sort of stop on the clutch pedal to stop it coming up so high? as adjusting the cable just lifts the pedal higher
until it hits the bias box casing which then puts the pedal up near the dash

[GavinR]

There's no stop, but there should be a strong spring pulling the clutch pedal down which maintains tension on the clutch cable

[rsminter]

thanks Gavin was no spring put one on sorted it

[Marti]

Hi, I too have a high clutch pedal with the Gartrac pedal box assembly; I didn't see a spring on this pedal only the brake pedal. I went for this assembly as it was regarded as one of the best quality on the market, brakes are good but very tight getting the brake pipes connected up.
One thing that annoys me if the whole assembly looks to set off square with the pedals sitting to the passenger side and the throttle pedal if very close to the brake pedal. I also needed to drill new throttle pedal holes to accommodate the very high throttle arm even with the duel cable adaptor sat as far down the arm as possible.
Wondering if your fitment was similar ?