did you fit the clutch and flywheel before or after the sump? if it were sump/pickup i would expect the engine to move in at least one directionOriginally Posted by Theyellowmex
did you fit the clutch and flywheel before or after the sump? if it were sump/pickup i would expect the engine to move in at least one direction
If the crank was turning in January then I doubt it should have seized up since then unless it was a casualty of the February floods. You need to retrace your steps and then the problem should be found.
Fitted flywheel clutch begining of jan then waited for sump and fitted that mid march
No where neer floods etc kept in new wooden garage covered in dust sheet. Il drain oil whip sump off see whats occuring
Did it have a sump on during storage? An 'open' crankcase in a wooden / any garage could have rusted bores in a couple of weeks - nasty scenario!
Hi yes it had sump on in storage.was just a straight swap over
Took sump off nothing catching its compleatly siezed wont budge either way!!!
if you are absolutely sure the crank moved then i cant see it being anything other than rings stuck to the bores, most likely culprits are cylinders which had valves open. i think you are back to my earlier suggestion put some diesel down the plug holes and keep trying. if you try to strip it without freeing it first you are going to have to resort to using a hammer to free the pistons, this is a more gentle method.
Il try what you say.how much do you pour down plug holes how long to leave? Incidently the cam pully and bottom pully are in correct position could it have jumped a tooth
When i fitted and tightened flywheel it did move inch or so before i chocked it.this would of turned engine opposte direction a little this is big valve head could it of put valve on piston etc.
Last edited by Graham; 30-03-2020 at 19:06.
For how long it's going to take I would be inclined to remove the cylinder head to see what condition the bores are like. With the head off you are also in a prime position to see if the cam rotates freely. You can then fill the bores with Diesel and wait or it to penetrate around the rings and hopefully get things moving. Don't forget to look for bore pitting if there's heavy corrosion present.
How long ago was this engine built by the Man in his sleep?
it shouldn't of, and even if a valve did touch a piston ( unlikely) the engine would stil turn backwards.
sorry if you post now looks slightly different, i mistakenly edited it rather than relied!
"Man in his sleep" lol.built mid december. honed.new rings.bearings etc crank polished.all usual stuf.im not mechanic so me taking head off etc is not option.iv been in touch with builder and he said would take look but cant till this lockdown is sorted.just trying to see if theres some thing i can try/do
It's very unusual for an engine that was only built in December to have seized up on the bores unless a serious ammount of water has entered the cylinder.
Removing a Pinto head is really straight forward even for a novice proving you follow the correct advice given. You'll need either a Torx or splined key depending which are fitted for the head bolts and cam belt tensioner. Remove both inlet, exhaust manifolds and cam belt and there's not much more to do. If you suffer from back pain then get two of you to lift it off as they are quite heavy. The cam can remain in the situ when you take the head off.
Have you tried Diesel or Parrafin yet through the plug holes and where abouts are the pistons in the bores, are they to near TDC?
If you have to take it to your engine Guru and let him look it over he's not going to admit to anything that he could have done wrong even if he has and will probably present you with a large invoice at the end of it.
Last edited by Forest_rallying; 31-03-2020 at 15:14.
Thanks for that it does seem quite simple.i will try the diesel down bores but like you say i cant see rings rusting in that short of time when kept in dry.im more on thinking cam timing out etc.spose really only way is do as you say and take head off to see whats going on
What makes you think the cam timing would be out? I would expect if a valve was hitting a piston the crank would still turn backwards.
I can’t post the relevant diagram but thought a live axle would have enough angle but a fixed diff would not but it seems that the prop does indeed need an angle or the individual bearings in the yoke do not rotate but just rock back and forth.
That’s why the pigs head is offset on both a live axle and a fixed diff
Katana google it and look at images
Last edited by snapper1; 31-03-2020 at 23:18.
Your right i thought if turned bacwards it would free itself from that scenareo.but according to the man in his sleep he thinks maybe when i tightened flywheel it moved backwards a bit and slipped a tooth lol
Last edited by Theyellowmex; 01-04-2020 at 07:32.
i have no idea what cam you fitted, but if it were a slipped tooth i would of still expected it to turn in one direction or another. to me that sounds more like a get out of jail on his behalf.
i tell ya what, if you like when this lockdown shit is over you can bring it to me and i will look at it for FREE
My thoughts entirely graham.its 285 cam on stage 3 big valve head. Some people are full of shite lol
you could probably get that cam 3 teeth out and it would still miss!
a few years ago one of my race pintos developed a starting fault, i think it was just fouled plugs initially, but they tried to tow start it, not a great idea with 12.5;1 CR and full race cam with over 0.500 lift, anyway it didnt start, they brought the car back up to me, i had it running in minutes after refitting the belt, the tow start had jumped the belt a tooth, but that engine still cleared.
Engine has gone into lockdown ...
Pmsl
i recently had reason the check my standard pinto and it was 2 teeth out, it doesn't seem to have suffered any damage.
Pinto is a non-interference design so valves never overlap with pistons. I snapped a cam belt driving hard up a hill back in the day but no valve / piston clattering - new belt installed at the side of the road and good to go - and I did LOL!
Only with std or moderate CR and cam.
The reply was to a post with a 'standard engine' quoted and as I said 'non interference design' You can obviously make it an interference engine but then its not standard! You can tell i'm bored can you!
Hi engine been standing for 4 days now with diesel down plug holes but its not budging.it feels locked solid going to need strip down to see the prob
it might sound silly, but you it might be worth checking havnt put a really long bolt in the clutch cover which has gone all the way through the flywheel and jammed it against the block?
No m8 just standard clutch cover bolts.cant see anything externaly which would jam
what you could do if you have the sump off, is undo the big end caps and try to tap the rod piston assemblies further up the bores
Im going to take head off over weekend iv ordered some new torx head bolts and t55 socket.will i need new head gasket as this had new one fitted and engine has not run?
Cheers
re using a compressed head gasket is a bad idea whether the engine has run or not
I don't think you'll get a better offer than that.
Did you really say that Graham.
Last edited by rallyrob; 08-04-2020 at 06:43.
Yer i kinda gathered that lol il order gasket as well.
Befor i take head off if i slackened belt and turned cam afraction to see if freed bottom end would then know if cam timings out.or am i just being thick.please all you mechanics dont shout at me im a mere decorator lol
Yes you can do that to try and see what’s going on, probably for the best that the head comes off too find out the full picture as the crank should still move a bit with the timing is out
Keep her lit
I would check the bottom end before removing the head. Sump off etc and do what others have advised etc. To lock an engine so tight I would suspect main bearings but investigation will show it.
Remove the timing belt as well when checking the bottom.
Save on bolts and gasket if you find the issue.
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If you decide you need to remove the head I wouldn't bother about cam timing at this stage because unless one of the pistons are exactly stuck at TDC you struggle to know if it's out or not. It's also going to be difficult to order a new head gasket when you don't know which one is fitted.
It can't do any arm to remove the big end bolts and see if the pistons or the crank will move before you disturb the head. If the pistons are stuck in the bores then the head will definately have to be removed to inspect the bores and clean everything up.
Problem solved!!!! Thanks for all your imput guysthe fault was
One of the rockers was way to tight so stopping cam rotating and therefor the crank.loosened cam belt adjusted rocker refitted cambelt/ timing all good now turns freely with nice compression.
Well done, nothing to drastic after all then.
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