Front and rear loom fitted to check and adjust loom runs and termination positionings.
IMG_4795.JPG
IMG_E4793.JPG
Today amongst other bits inside I cut, sleeved and terminated the interior light loom into a 3 pin plug.
Immediate next jobs will be fit the thermal liner on the inside bulkhead, and then start putting some of the component parts back under the dash, wiper mechanism, steering brackets, vents etc
Taking shape :-))
Hi peter how are you is tomOriginally Posted by Zakspak
What is the part I marked with a black circle?
We (well I) don't see a black circle.
A second I will mark again in red
IMG_4795.jpg
See?
Std tee block that normally serves front left and right brakes - has inbuilt ferrule to secure to inner wing - attached maybe better view (on my car)
OS Inner Wing 01 (Medium).JPG
It reminds me a bit of this part on my dad's Ford Escort mk2Attachment 88389
Last edited by Tom escort mkii; 11-02-2023 at 12:37.
Engine update
Pulled my finger out and cracking on with the engine. It's been covered in oil, wrapped in plastic and stored in a box with a secured fitted lid. That saved it from the cold snap we had with the overnight warm up that left condensation all over my garage.
First thing clean and paint the block. Wire wheels, brake cleaner, scrapers.
Old paint, surface rust and oil cleaned
IMG_4920.JPG
IMG_4919.JPG
Coat of rust cure to deal with any remaining surface rust
IMG_4925.JPG
Rust cure dried and block masked, including all threaded holes
IMG_4969.JPG
A light rub over with a soft scotch pad and some panel wipe and a coat of zinc primer
IMG_4980.JPG
Finally a coat of 2 pack black on the block, breather and oil/water heat exchanger
IMG_4981.JPG
IMG_4986.JPG
Masking coming off and new core plug fitted
IMG_4985.JPG
Couple of days for the paint to dry, all masking off and back on the stand for internal cleaning of cylinders, oil ways and water ways with brake cleaner, bottle cleaners and soft cloths. The most crap came from the water ways.
IMG_4994.JPG
IMG_4993.JPG
Crank, main caps, big end caps and pistons have also been cleaned and made ready.
Followed by a coat of engine oil.
It's wrapped in clean plastic whilst I'm not working on it
Good plan by reusing the standard crankcase breather as I am going back to standard ;-)
Hi Donnie, how’s things? I saw you had a bit of engine trouble. Did you get it sorted and what was wrong?
Re the engine breather, I considered other options, but decided that as Ford went to the trouble to make and fit them there was probably good reason over just putting an outlet or even a valve outlet on the block, and cleaned and painted it doesn’t spoil the engines look.
Just got a bit of a problem as one of the piston cooling jets is broken, I think I may have caught it on my glove or sleeve wiping the cylinder out in preparation to fit the piston. I’d fitted them first as I wasn’t sure I’d be able to do so with the crank and pistons in place, but you can so I’ve re the last 2 from No3 & 4. Ford don’t make/supply them anymore so I’m looking for a used one or making a repair. Just waiting for a mate of mine to let me know about having one of his guys braze the jet/nozzle back on.
Not sorted, thought it was fuel so drained, cleaned the tank and lines even although they were all new as I found dirt in the filter, changed filter and pump. 3 bar at the regulator and plenty fuel getting to the rail so not fuel, also removed the plugs and they were soaked so hopefully something as simple as a coil pack. Got it booked in next time home as it needs the wheel alignment done as well so removed the worldcup xmember as it was harsh so now back to the standard RS crossmember
Good to see you keep posting as looking forward to seeing her done
Correct re the crankcase breather, ford spent time developing it so better than most, also see on the Retroford site that it is to be used with the sump, didn’t see that printed when I bought it so people must have obviously had some issues with it OTT they wouldn’t have gone into print
Fingers crossed you get sorted without too much agro
Putting the engine together.
IMG_5052.JPG
IMG_5053.JPG
Small ink marks on the piston crown for setting the piston ring spacing
IMG_5054.JPG
The rear crank cover is a bit more complicated than it looks as it need to be spaced around the flywheel disc (using 3 tabs in the cover against the disc) and against the lower block face using feeler gauges, and its fairly tight, doing up the bolts can throw off the spacing but it's worth taking the time so the disc turns evenly in the rear seal
IMG_5010.JPG
New parts, think this is the last big spend now on parts other than tyres.
IMG_5014.JPG
IMG_5017.JPG
This is the older cambelt set with the anti whip lower pulley
IMG_E5041.JPG
That's it for now. Need to get that piston cooling jet sorted to carry on and I'm away with a new job for a month or so.
Broken piston cooling jet. I think it got caught on my sleeve whilst wiping out No2 Cylinder ready to fit the piston
IMG_5042.JPG
Bugger
is the jet snapped? or just pulled out? if its just pulled out you could press it back in and braze or silver solder it to retain it
Thanks Graham, unfortunately it’s snapped just inside the valve. I spoke to a mate about doing a brazed repair which he thought was possible. However I made a few more calls and I’ve now tracked down a couple of brand new jets which are on their way now. ����
(got a spare as they are now difficult to find)
IMG_5396.JPG
Replacement oil jet arrived and fitted along with the sump oil pick-up pipe support stud in place of a main cap bolt.
IMG_5394.JPG
IMG_5395.JPG
I did these bits back at the end of March, as I'm away with work for a while.
The new oil jets have a significantly stronger spring in them compared to the original, so I've ordered another couple and will change them all.
Next up will be the oil pump, pick up pipe and I think I'm ready to fit the sump
Last edited by Zakspak; 24-04-2023 at 22:36.
Bit more done over the last month or so when I've been home
All 4 piston oil jets changed.
Oil pump primed before fitting. This is a high pressure pump. Like the rear crank seal carrier the oil pump has to be positioned relative to the crank shaft and the lower face of the block using feeler gauges as per the spec, which takes a bit of time to get right with lots of small adjustments. Then fit the front crank seal
IMG_5652.JPG
Then the oil pick up pipe
IMG_5654.JPG
With everything checked on the bottom end the sump goes on and it's time to flip the block over to fit the Head
I set piston 1 to TDC then turned back so all the pistons were well clear of the valves. Fitted the head, then the cams before setting them with the timing tool, before turning the crank back to TDC against the crank timing pin, then the cam front seals.
IMG_5723.JPG
The real sharp eyed will notice the error with the dip stick tube in the wrong side of the sump, which I realise the next day and corrected. There's also a small bung in the original dip stick hole in the block. The oil filter is just on loose to stop oil spilling out.
IMG_5724.JPG
This last week, I've managed a fair bit of garage time.
I'm using a Race Line water rail just because I prefer the look of it with he BDA cam cover I have.
It's made for a silver top and the front mounting point doesn't line up on a black top, so there's a bracket you can buy which I thought was expensive for what it is, so made my own, and glad I did because the sold bracket would need altering to fit.
IMG_5802.JPG
The bracket needs to be cranked and the web needs to be shaved back. Using a straight bracket pushes the rail out and puts it under stress where it turns 90* at the back of the block. I've seen one that had cracked here and I suspect that was the reason.
The sold bracket is also designed for an M10 bolt, I imagine because the pick up point on the silver top is M10 ?
I thought this looked a bit clunky, so I tapped the bracket top hole to M8, and used a 10mm OD / 8mm ID sleeve to take up the slack. This is another job that's taken far longer than I thought, but was worth the time.
IMG_E5815.JPG
Hopefully this shows what I've done
And dry fitted.
IMG_5806.JPG
I might make another bracket as I can slim down the top section as I'm using an M8 bolt, but that's for another day
Because this restoration isn't taking long enough already, I felt I needed to make some more work for my self.
I really don't like the Zetec cam belt cover/front engine mount. So that's had to go, but you need it for the alternator bracket set up I have. I looked at spacers but in the end decided to splash out on the new bracket set from Retro Ford. It's slicker and means I only had to space for the tensioner bracket.
IMG_E5814.JPG
-Top belt/pulley cover bracket, cut down cleaned and painted. You need this because it has a slot in it as part of the cam belt tensioner set up.
-Water rail as per prev post
-4x belt cover engine mount bolts, cut down to fit without the cover
-Spacer for the alternator/water pump tensioner bracket.
-Tensioner bracket
-Deleted belt cover/engine mount
Water pump housing on with a new metal seal (£18 ouch)
New water pump on, minus one screw which is replaced by a counter sunk screw as part of the Retro Ford alternator kit
Vernier cam sprockets fitted, using new bolts.
cam belt tensioner and idlers fitted. The kit I got has the wrong size idler 70mm instead of the correct 60mm so a separate idler on order. I've fitted the additional anti whip idler at the bottom.
Alternator brackets fitted.
IMG_5819.JPG
I will be fitting the lower cam belt cover, and the timing belt isn't finished as I have to change that top idler, I'm using the old one for now to check every thing works. I've turned the engine over several times and all's good.
Just to see how it's going to look, and I'm happy with that
IMG_5820.JPG
IMG_5821.JPG
And so you should… looks mint
A quick word from experience of using the Raceline water rail (in an Escort at least) because it must be fitted to the head / engine before fitting in the car (its bolts are truely inaccessible once in the car) make sure you have the exhaust manifold in the engine bay before lifting the engine in! In my case (using a RF stainless 4-2-1 manifold) there was no way to fit it after! It looks like a huge gap but whichever way you twist it, it hits either engine, water rail, chassis rail or inner wing. I gave up in the end and took the head off just to drop the manifold in - this is probably when I got the valve timing shifted so it clattered the valves on first start up . . . . expensive mistake! After that I switched to a RF water rail which of course can be fitted after engine and ex. manifold are in - simplicity itself!
Thanks Katana, appreciate the heads up.
I found out the exhaust manifold had to be fitted with the engine when I did a dry fit some time back, I found exactly as you described, looks like plenty of room but it’s impossible to fit. I’m glad it’s not just me being a twat.
I know what you mean with the different water rails, I initially had the RF rail, but just thought it spoiled the look I was after. The good people at RF were great and took it back.
Away from the engine I've had to have a think about options for harness anchors.
Back when I had the car on the road, I'd anchored the rear harness fixing point in the floor cross member without any extra strengthening, and just a loose backing plate. Way back when I did the floor I put welded anchor points in the floor cross member with additional reinforcing. Of course this is far from ideal and the more I've thought about it the more I've realised I'd have to change some thing. Doing this before any painting would have been best, but leaving it any later would have been a right pain in the backside.
I was going to put a fixing point in the floor so the harness could slip between the seat base and seat back. Then a search here pointed me in a different direction which, apparently is a much better option both for safety, it also made it easier to do the job. The harnesses are only an option, I may go with normal seat belts but I want the option.
The backing plates I made my self as per the spec I'd read.
IMG_5810.JPG
Welded into the rear parcel shelf with 4x plug welds
IMG_5811.JPG
Probably took longer laying out protection to prevent sparks burning the paint than doing the plug welds and dressing them back.
Then fixing the paint
IMG_5813.JPG
The usual red oxide zinc,
You can't see it, but I more or less had to mask the whole car, using 2 pack paint the over spray is unforgiving
IMG_E5818.JPG
With a light coat of satin black to freshen it up, all done.
IMG_5832.JPG
IMG_5833.JPG
If I use harnesses, they will be the ones with the recoil like a normal seat belt. The recoil sitting on the parcel shelf. The issue is I have (pictured earlier) a really nice parcel shelf and do I want to put a hole in it ??? I've seen pics of the same set up here and it looks tidy. We'll see, I have options now.
More progress over the last month, updating over the next few days.
Light weight crank pully replacing the original.
the lower plastic cover needs a little work to fit. The ridge around the front opening sits in a recess on the back of the original pully. There's no recess on the light weight pulley so I used a sanding disc to lower its profile. Not removing it completely just making it clear so minimal gap for any crap to get in.
Light weight left, original Right you can see the recess
IMG_5881.JPG
plastic cover ridge reduced
IMG_5882.JPG
Crank sensor bracket. My engine is from an auto and the original bracket has to be replaced. I used my own button head screw as it looks nicer, not that you can really see it.
IMG_5879.JPG
Original ford manual brackets very hard to find. This is one of those parts that could be a real pain in the arse if you forget to fit it as it's fitted on the rear face of the block behind the fly wheel, so be mindful of that if you're doing this.
That also means getting one from a scrap yard probably means pulling an engine out, removing the gear box and fly wheel. Lot of agro.
New (correct size) Cam belt top idler fitted and timing/tension all set up.
Lower cover, Main pulley and light weight water pump pully fitted. A couple of fly wheel bolts in the rear of the crank with a bar between them to lock the crank against the stand to allow torqueing up of the main pulley bolt
IMG_5908.JPG
Block breather and engine mounts fitted
IMG_5907.JPG
Last edited by Zakspak; 19-07-2023 at 22:44.
Before fitting the RH engine mount I had to sort out an oil pressure pipe for the RS dash which has the capillary type gauge. There's a tapping that is plugged in the centre of the block. In previous pics you can see I've put a temporary electric sender in it to stop oil leaking out and crap getting in.
Electric sender visible just behind the oil filter in the tapping used originally, Ill be putting an oil warning light in as well.
I've got the original fittings and pipe, but the pipe is going on 50 years old and I thought I can improve on the look.
Block tapping is 1/4 NPT.
Gauge fitting is M10x1.5 The original fittings use an M10x1.5 adaptor for the block with female M10 fittings each end of the pipe.
Space on the Zetec with RF engine mounts is a bit restrictive for using this oil way tapping, so :-
90* 1/4NPT - AN3 male adapter.
AN3 straight swivel PTFE pipe fitting
AN3 PTFE steel braided hose
AN3 -M10x1.5 straight stainless steel swivel fitting (This is a brake fitting, and isn't available in ally)
Engine end all made up, and Ill cut the pipe to length and fit the gauge fitting when I'm fitting the dash.
IMG_5910.JPG
IMG_5911.JPG
IMG_5909.JPG
Rear brakes fitted, whilst waiting for some parts for the water rail to arrive.
IMG_6003.JPG
Washer bottle cleaned with degreaser, a bit of cellulose thinner and finally put through the dish washer. Came up nice.
IMG_5990.JPG
Now fitted to the car with a new lid I had tucked away. I've also stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the pump, but forgot to take pics. Its fairly straight forward and now runs smooth again.
Rear block breather pipe. This runs across the back of the block.
I think this was missing from the engine as I couldn't find the original and couldn't see it in any pics I took of the engine. Again another part hard to find, so I made this up from some 10mm OD ally tube and some ally strip, bending it with a forming spring. I've made it longer than the original and will cut it down once the engine is in and I know how I'm running the breather pipe.
Original part is steel.
IMG_5974.JPG
Back in the car, thermal/noise matting fitted so I can crack on fitting the car out.
IMG_5955.JPG
IMG_5956.JPG
After this I've fitted the wiper mechanism, heater box and controls, hand brake leaver and the steering column support bracket, all of which are black and don't show up too well in .
Excellent work as always. Will be an absolut stunning car!
On the rear brake I might have spotted some minor faults. The top spring should go the other way round so that it clears the wheel cylinder. And you might have mixed up the brake shoes. The metal part is the same on all four shoes, but the lining is glued on in different positions. The shoe with the lining in bottom position should go to the front and the shoe with the lining in top position should go to the rear.
Last edited by Willi; 21-07-2023 at 06:28.
Thanks Willi,
Well spotted on the spring, I’ll have to change that around and double check the other side. School boy error
Re the brake shoes, they’re symmetrical, so not sure how the linings would alter position if I swap the shoes, but not to assume I’ll check and report back.
The shoes aren’t as they were back in the day where one was bonded and the other was riveted and had to be fitted in a certain position, with these shoes all the linings are bonded.
I think you might need to swap the rear shoe of the LH side brake with the front shoe of the RH side brake. At least with my brake shoe set that I recently changed they were not all the same. But I might be wrong and all four shoes of yout set are completly identical.
IMG_6249.JPG
Thanks again Willi, spring refitted correctly. The other side was ok
I checked the shoes and they are all the same, so swapping shoes around will give the same result.
I'd be interested to see what you have fitted for a comparison. I'm going to look into this a bit more just in case there is a problem with the shoes I've got, although they came from Burtons and were in a sealed box, still worth checking.
Raceline Water rail temperature senders.
I really like this water rail, but the fact is, it was designed for use in Caterham type cars so the temperature sender tappings are in the back right where the Escort bulkhead is, with an extra one toward the front.
IMG_5938.JPG
All the pics I've seen of them used in Escorts people seem to make do as is and often use the the heater tapping for a sensor.
I want heat, a dash temp gauge and the ECU temp sender. I spoke to Raceline and they said no one had ever asked about doing this, which I'm surprised about, but hey ho.
Here’s what I’ve done to modify the water rail to suit my requirements.
On the underside I tapped a 1/4 to 1/8NPT adapter in to take a 1/8NPT sender for the dash gauge.
The reason I’ve made this extra 1/8NPT tapping is simply to move the sender away from sitting above the exhaust (manufactured tapping). I was a bit concerned the exhaust temperature could effect the sensor wire insulation and maybe the accuracy of the sensor itself. I’ve plug that 1/8NPT tapping so it’s there if I ever fit an additional temperature gauge for some reason.
IMG_5944.JPG
The tappings needed some consideration and carful measuring to ensure they pass through the centre part of the casting and don’t hit the “walls”. I found the casting to be 3mm+, which is good and gives plenty of material to thread. On the pic above the nice machined area would be great for drilling and tapping but it sits very close to an exhaust stud and I don’t think there would be clearance for a sensor.
IMG_5945.JPG
I did some practice with some 3mm aluminium sheet to check the tapping would work ok before any drilling.
Drilling the water rail took some setting up as its an odd shape and I only have a DIY press drill jig which adapts a standard hand drill. I wanted the tappings to be nice and square to the casting.
IMG_5946.JPG
The reducer I trimmed down (section not masked removed) and drilled it out a bit to give the sensor end maximum exposure to the water.
IMG_5949.JPG
You could go 1/8NPT straight into the casting but I thought the adapter being aluminium would allow me to tighten it firmly to give a good seal with less risk of stripping the thread in the casting. Then the sensor into the reducer gives maximum threads to tighten against. You can’t use PTFE tape here as the sensor earths through its body. The reducer is anodised and this needs to be removed around the threads as it’s quite a good insulation.
IMG_5950.JPG
IMG_5952.JPG
Nicely clear of the exhaust pipe and studs
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks