whats the difference ?????
whats the difference ?????
if you just order 2.0 pistons you get high comp, if you order transit your get low comp, if you gave a reconditioner a piston as a patern he probably ordered what you gave him which is likely to be a low comp transit one
low comp pistons have a lower compression height than high comp pistons, in otherwords high comp are taller, the difference is about 1.3mm so its not obvious,
with the piston in the block at tdc a high comp piston will be about .5mm away from being flush with the top of the block and a low comp nearly 2mm away from flush
Last edited by Graham; 29-01-2009 at 20:33.
is there owt you dont know about pinto's?????? from wot you say it looks like ive got hi comp pistons, i'm assuming all the blocks are the same other than cylinder bore sizes, mines a 205 block, so the pistons ive bought will be ok to use?????. i got the pistons from a firm called Trecchi in Chesterfield, they sell a lot of pinto and x flow engine parts..pistons, rings, bearing shells etc, most seem to be AE make. what carbs did you put on 'Dave' the engine?
Interesting thread.
Very similar to my Capri's first pinto.
high cr, low squish, mild cam, flowed head, aiming for alot's of torq.
There's no point using the original efi system, whether it runs lean all the way with no good punch or by adjusting the maf and fuel pressure it will make a good power, however knackering the mpg.
With the stock untouched efi my engine made 115hp / 180nm of torq, Afr was good for cruise and idle conditions but on wot it was dangerously lean, loosening the maf's spring a bit and raising the fuel pressure it made 140hp 200nm+ and pulled like a train, however this knackered the mpg since there's no closed loop control.
I've fiddled around with the stock injection systems, raising rate fuel reg's and all sorts of injection shit and in my opinion there are two ways; Go allout carb's, forget mpg's OR go aftermarket fuel injection, get great power and drivability and great mpg.
My ex 200sx was pushing 400hp, and did sub 7litre's/100km on highway cruise. autronic sm4 ecu, 850cc injectors.
If I did an economy pinto, I would get stock, good efi engine and stick an aftermarket ecu in it.
just my 2cents
Rotten V8; Ford Granada mk1 V8 N/A 500hp
Dave, what chokes and jetting did you have or have you go in your twin dellorto 40's as i'm intending to have same on my 2.0l pinto
No idea sorry.
if your looking for power you should be thinking about using 45's not 40's
i have the jet setting dellorto used to recomend which for 40's on an rs2000
32 chokes
135main
200 air
50 idle
40 pump
7777.5 emulsion tube
but even dellorto used to recomend using 45's on a std engine
Just sat here and read this whole artical, couldn't walk away!!! awesome
Bought a 1986 2.0l capri 2 years ago and have been doing it up for since.
Perfect body resprayed in its original colour. Mint 2.0s seats and door card. the usual manifold exhaust and KN filter. I've also had it coverted to LPG a year and a half ago saved loads of pennys since because of it.. just switch back to petrol when i want a bit more power.
I have a couple of questions that you may be able to answer.
Can I mate an unleaded transit head on to my block and change the cam to give better power gains?
What jets might I need to convert a 38dgas to a 2.0l application
Thanks
P.s awsome thread again!!!
transit head is the same as a car head so swapping to a transit head on its own wont give any power gain.
38dgas will work ok on a pinto, just enlarge the main jets to 150 to 155
Wow Graham - that was an impressive read
I have a 205 block pinto that needs a rebuild and mild tuning too (FR32 cam, 38 DGAS, "group 1" inlets, and 93mm pistons). This is going in my 1964 Taunus Transit ex firebrigade van.
You can read about the restoration here (just started) if interested:
http://retrorides.proboards86.com/in...y&thread=55972
I wanted to do the engine work myself, but reading this thread, i was a bit surpriced by the amount of work and skill that goes into it.
Sadly i live in Denmark, but if that wasn´t the case i would definately send you a pm to ask you nicely, if you were interested in doing another
Keep up the good work mate
-Brian (testacorsa)
got a problem
i builded my 205 block its together, jump started it because standard starter motor won't turn it around.
in the red circle was there a bolt fitted? because, mine leak lots of oil, we pulled the car like 500 metre and lost the whole sump ( 4 liter or so)
We were thinking if there was a bolt in that hole the oil comes from there. butt...
Thank you
Last edited by Arieke; 30-03-2009 at 22:12. Reason: forgot pic
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
No bolt there on my engine. Have you an oil cooler?
That is where the oil filter goes, no wonder it pissed out all its oil................
I just couldn't resist
Seriously, that M8 hole below the oil filter is just a blind hole, no oil comes out of there, however if it was drilled too deep it could leak all the oil out that hole becaue there is a main oil gallery just below it.
Block the hole with an M8 bolt, washer and plenty of threadlock to seal the threads up.
Just aswel it didn't start or you might not have noticed the leak and properly killed your engine.
Jason
it isnt a M8 hole, but it was dark yesterday, and bit mad. Don't i poked with a screwdriver and its still oke.
The oil filter is on but i'm going to take it off and remount it. Hopefully its that.
Thanks
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
that hole is M10 on 205 blocks m8 on pre 205,
Did you find where the oil came from
That hole, regardless of what size it is could be very handy for an oil accumulator sitting down beside the sump.
If it was drilled and tapped a bit bigger it could be ideal.
Jason
I did, the fucking idiot who put the oil filter on, forgot to place the rubber between the filter and block. If i see that guy i bash him.
How stupid can you be???
It stopped leaking so that was the problem...
But i cant get the engine to start on the starter motor. (standard starter motor) and i have a CR from 11.5 When i jused the starter with 24V. Then it does 1000 rpm (with no spark plugs) but when the spark plugs in, the engine does (300rpm) But I dont think thats enough to start the engine. I think i need to buy a edge starter engine from burton or so. But not sure ...
Last edited by Arieke; 02-04-2009 at 23:30.
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
You need a high torque starter, any gear reduced starter will do the job perfectly well.
Don't bother with the burton power starter, burton are expensive for some parts, they buy the majority of their bits from other companies and sell them on far a nice profit.
Have a look at this starter, £54 cheaper at only £125.
Don't let idiots work on your car anymore lol
Jason
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
Any gear reduced starter is more than able to start your engine, and its not too good to be true.
Move your starter over to the intake side of the engine if you have enough room to clear the steeing shaft on your tina.
Use an alloy bellhousing with starter mount on both sides or a std right hand drive bellhousing.
Jason
Is this the 1.4kw starter you are talking about?
I have one of those, didn't realise it was gear reduced, lucky bonus for me.
What model car and engine size do they normally come on?
Jason
Last edited by RWD fords rule; 05-04-2009 at 11:52.
will they do the job?, then i look for those as spare one. I got one from ebay. Should arrive thursday or so.
(have little movie on http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=138345
Last edited by Arieke; 06-04-2009 at 18:22.
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
Do you know what model car those starters originally came on?
Might be possible to get it a lot cheaper than £128.
Thanks
Jason.
Scorpio and sierra pinto engines.
Think mostly scorpios
Ford Taunus Going RS2300 16v with 48s!!!
Just pulled my head apart to try some of the porting ive learned in this thread.
Wondering if anyone has a link to head casting numbers to identify where it came from?
As im not sure of its origins i dont know if it has hardened valve seats for unleaded. Are they easy to see? Havent cleaned it up for a close look yet.
Seems i have after market cam followers but actual cam im not sure on. has a bunch of markings on the end but nothing i can identify so far.
Aaron
Just read through this thread and what a cracker :-)
I have a similar engine in my Westfield - it originally came out of an EFI Sierra that I had modded - nearly the same spec (Piper OHC134 injection cam, ported head) but I didn't have group 1 valve and it was bored to 2.1. The ECU was chipped. Made 111bhp/120ft/lb at the wheels - 143 calculated flywheel. Peak power was 5900rpm and peak torque 2900rpm.
Then I stripped it down for a visual inspection before converting it to Megasquirt and GSXR throttle bodies. Also did a little work on the valves and head. Made 131bhp/145ft/lb at the wheels - calculated 169 flywheel. Peak power was a little later at 6100rpm and torque an 3200rpm - lovely linear power line and flat topped torque curve from 2500rpm to 5500rpm there is always at least 135ft/lb at the wheels.
Build thread is here*:- http://web.bethere.co.uk/amigafan200...neexhaust.html
*There are a few errors - most notably piston ring gaps - I mixed up inches and mm on the write up (but not the build else it would be like NASA all over again!) so double check anything you see mentioned!
The best bit is I'm getting a shade over 45mpg in the lightweight westfield, so I can concur the "caravan" cams are a great thing to put in a Pinto.
Again, great read and thanks for taking thetime to post.
Last edited by combatsapph; 13-07-2009 at 13:22.
I have been on another long run out today (this week I have done over 1000 miles in my Escort).
I went down to Milton Keynes, and on the way I clocked the mpg by brimming the tank and then brimming it again 200 miles later. The first time I did it was with fairly timid driving TBH, but that wore off ages ago.
I guess 2/3rds was motorway driving at 75-80 average, that includes the compulsory full race start from the M6 toll booths . The rest was enthusiastic roundabout driving (have you ever been to Milton Keynes? )
It did 31.9mpg which is pretty impressive in my book.
good stuff especially considering its on sidedrafts i can only wonder what it could do if it were properly jetted and set up.............
It has been on my "to do" list for a good while Graham.
It is going on some rollers in a fortnight, so we can go from there.
To be honest, I didn't know of any rolling roads around here, but the guys from Hawarden seem to be having good write ups lately.
of course there is always the risk it actually is running lean and therefore on the edge of detonation and may give worse ecomony rejetted etc
Hey Dave that dyno session should of well been and gone any results for all those watching this thread and waiting
Bookmarks