Yep, couple first pulls are from ~3km straight
Yep, couple first pulls are from ~3km straight
Almost whole summer went without 5th gear, now finally did take box off and disassemble it and problem was very simple as shown in pic:
IMAG0038.jpg
Did bought new 5th gear tooth from friend, same problem with that, axle is worn out so that smaller 5th gear tooth rises under load (as can seen in that pic). Now it's welded on, will see how long it now lasts. When it brokes again, will update gears etc inside the box to maybe dog engagement.
Last edited by Sultzi; 06-10-2012 at 13:08.
so looking at the pic the retaining clip has gone up fifth gear has followed hence no drive. or is it ment to be pressed on in that position
correct? i'm not a gearbox person...
Yes, gear should be ~10mm lower. It should be heat pressed to stay on the shaft, but it seems that the axle is worn out and it doesn't hold the gear in place anymore, with new gear was the same problem. Now the old gear is welded with six spot welds to the axle, seems to work, but how long?
Thanks for that info always good no know
Hopefully it will last..
Magnificent!
How is the ride and the road holding with your anti roll bar and all the other suspension mods?
Don't Scrap it, Restore it !
Well, feels pretty good. A bit hard on daily driving, but doesn't really matter anymore.
Need some updating to rear trailing arms and their positions. Gaz shocks at the back, way more harder and stiffer than spax adjustables at hardest setup. Gazes are now something like twelve snaps from hardest.
Really nice to drive a bit fast on curvy roads
Oh, almost forgot. Puts a smile on face everytime when flooring it
YES! that's the most importantOriginally Posted by Sultzi
Well, feels pretty good.
Puts a smile on face everytime when flooring it
I repeat, Your car is awesome!!!
Don't Scrap it, Restore it !
Well, feels pretty good. A bit hard on daily driving, but doesn't really matter anymore.
Need some updating to rear trailing arms and their positions. Gaz shocks at the back, way more harder and stiffer than spax adjustables at hardest setup. Gazes are now something like twelve snaps from hardest.
Really nice to drive a bit fast on curvy roads
Oh, almost forgot. Puts a smile on face everytime when flooring it
Yeah i know that feeling mines fully stripped of all paint just need the time to sort it...
Long winter starting to go past, so prepared this to be ready for the summer!
Upgraded fuel pump to Fuelab Prodigy 1000hp, because Bosch 044 were at it limits at 1bar and 435hp. Will try sometime in the summer with 1,5bar of boost what this old baby gives
Also changed engine oil again (maybe 5th time already, driven max. 5000km?). Nasty stuff that E85, oil don't like it in the long term, so I change the oils pretty often just to be safe.
i just love it, no bling bling... only real stuff
Car is broken at the moment and sitting in the garage..
But here is small poor quality vid from early spring this year..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QidUcutkSpk
Today I did take off valve covers and reason why it broke came very clear..
Couple retainers had small crack on them..
And one of them had I bit bigger crack I think
But no worry, this is good reason to make new better engine to this..
Today was good time to take out the head and see what's broken..
Not bad I would say. These Ross pistons seems to be pretty tough..
Head is also possible to fix..
Gasket seems to leaken little bit from that same cylinder..
Couple first cylinders..
Will make new engine anyway.. This could be fixed pretty easily though..
Looking great Sultzi! Really enjoying this thread. All the best!
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Real shame about the engine
What's the new spec going to be ?
Now decided to rebuild this, if piston havent cracked and rod is fine.. small head work recuired. Plan is to go dyno with this old engine and see what it can take
New engine will be 2.9 and hopefully stroked to around 3.5litres.. and comp ratio also higher, this engine only has around 8.2:1 ratio. New engine will come around 10.5:1 ratio..
10.5:1Now decided to rebuild this, if piston havent cracked and rod is fine.. small head work recuired. Plan is to go dyno with this old engine and see what it can take
New engine will be 2.9 and hopefully stroked to around 3.5litres.. and comp ratio also higher, this engine only has around 8.2:1 ratio. New engine will come around 10.5:1 ratio..
I take it you are using methanol ?
Over 10:1 atleast. I have been driving with ethanol, E85. So all of it benefits havent been used in this old engine due this too low comp ratio.. people now days uses to low comp ratios anyhow, ecus have come so good that you can use higher comp ratios than before, even with gasoline
my friend used to build 10.5-1 compression turbo honda engines with great success, he said aslong as you get the ignition timing right, whats the problem. rally cars also run 10.5-1 or did the last time i checked.
i take it your going to fit titanium valve spring retainers on the new engine?
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
Titanium or Chromo retainers.. Engine will be same 2.8l, but need to make it much better if possible..
Will update when something happens with new engine..
its all about cylinder filling, believe it or not, honda cylinderheads do not actually flow that well, they get power using revs, so the dynamic compression under boost isnt as high as on other things, rally cars are similar they breather through smallish restrictors which limits cylinder filling so can get away with high compression
i wouldn't of said crappy 2.8 heads flow well so he might be alright running high compression then lol
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
How did i miss this thread?
I love this car, steel wheels too, my favorite.
Well done Sultzi.
Hi guys!
Had decided to get this running again in summer 2015, escort can wait a bit longer, need to get some old wheels running for the summertime
So sold that beaten up cossy's t5 and bought new tranny that should take all the beating I can give to it with this crappy cologne engine
It's bmw GS6-53DZ which have proven to take +1000nm without hassle..
Ratios are something like this:
Excellent to see this continuing. Nice box too. It'll be summer in no time
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Hi, small update
Got electric power steering pump from 2000-> toyota mr2, this will be located to the trunk away from the engine bay.
Took the rear axle out to do little maintenance and also will change those lower arm mountings to better ones and hopefully get rid of that wheel hop. Also changed bearings once again.
New mountings tack welded, still needs some reinforcements..
New parts for the propshaft, because bmw box don't have sliding yoke, so this need to be made in the propshaft. Luckily parts are widely avaible for this..
Draw new exhaust flanges
New Howe master cylinder for clutch and another one for brake. (sierra electric boosted unit will be in the trunk also)
Got nice tool from isky, no more problems with head gaskets
Also some nice shiny pistons, cr should be a bit over 10:1 with these
Gearbox is now bolt-on to cologne v6
Got the new main girdle from machining
Summer is coming, still lot's of things to do..
One of my favourite cars keep the updates coming
Thanks
Trial fitting the new main girdle to block. Oil pump needed more room to fit, but that was easy job.
Also drilled and tapped holes for m8 bolts on the sides, hopefully gives more strenght.
Love the engineering that has gone into this!
Thanks
Small things done again.. Did bought gps speedometer from speedhut, this will replace the original speedo in the dash.
Been also planning to make new fuel rail, because original one is already so many times modified. Did make trial fit with alu bungs and injectors, I should be able to make two rails, one of each cylinder bank. Pic doesn't show but they are perfectly lined so should be "easy" job.
Here you can see the original one, pretty hard to make somekind of rail with only one center tube.
Injectors are also serviced, because they have been sitting open for one year and e85 is common to known to stuck and dry inside the injectors when system is not sealed. You can see in the paper flow rates before the service (up) and flow rates after the service (lower). Also are they able to hold pressure etc..
Made couple trial cuts with that groov-o-matic to damaged block. First cut was way too deep, second is ok.
Grinded the flywheel with disc to take off hardened spots due to the sintered clutch. It's now lathed straight.
Bought also new m5 race pressure plate, old one was little bit worn out.
Did make some measurements with couple of the cranks I have to determine which one is the best to use. One that I already had in use with that broken engine, was the best. Here i'm measuring is the crank twisted, only 0,005mm was shown.
Some chinese made cheap egt sensors
Head gasket glue, should be best on the market, even better than VHT copper sement. In the backround redlines break in additive for the engine.
Rear axle is now welded with new lower mounts. Also adjusted camber and toe in with heating before painting it black, should be ok now.
Got new double valve springs, they needed some head modification to accommodate spring cups and a bit longer installed height. Bought tool from comp cams and tested it the one scrap head to make sure everything works before destroying expensive heads.
Made couple holes with drill to examine how much material is left after ~3.7mm of cutting lower than original spring seat.
Was happy with it so made the cuts to the heads. Cuts are made so that valve spring installed height is now 42mm which gives seat pressure of 58kg. At 11mm of lift pressure is 130kg (which is current cam maximum) and example with 12,8mm of lift pressure is 143kg.
Summer is coming fast and still many things to do..
Wow haven't seen this before very impressive mate well done
Serious engineering on the girdle
How do you make sure it all lines up on the bearing tunnel, do you have to hone it out to an oversize ?
Are you selling them stud girdles
Woof!
That's all, carry on
Out for a drive on a sunny spring day reminds me why I got this car
Girdle is now around 0,5mm smaller on the bore than actual crankshaft bore in the block. This will be first bored to right size and finally will be honed to exact std measurements.
We have one for sale, just needs couple holes to be drilled on the oilpan (mistake on the drawing I made) and custom or modified oilpan. But it ain't cheap and shipping from here finland would be expensive due to weight.
Today I made rear upper arms adjustable to get pinion angle right where it should be. Mate of mine welded them with TIG after I cutted the bars and tacked them in place.
Modified the dash to accommodate that Speedhut gps speedo, fits nicely
Also tack welded mounting box for the sierra electrohydraulic boosted unit to be mounted in the trunk. Friend of mine will tig weld the seams
Jaahas tää oli täällä. Nyt äkkiä meijän omalle foorumille vastailemaan mun kysymyksiin
Rally cars are normally n/a and need the compression to get the power. I am running a 12.5/1 cr in mine or so i worked it out that way. I know of people running 13/1 in their rs2ks too! I couldn't believe how low cr the cosworth turbos run as standard i think 8.5/1 is standard!
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