Transit MK2 Zetec 2.0

[Works]

Thought i was getting to get this thing mot'd this week but "found" again something to fix while scraping some flaking undercoating off from rear wheel tubs (or what turned to be rather something called swiss cheese):



Well ive known the previous owners nasty repairs all the time ive had the van and had in mind to fix them some day, but never did, so guess its time to fix them now:



Sawed old ones off and bent new ones from 2mm thick zinc plated stuff:




Some paint & undercoating and its done

Engine bay is finished for now. Found some use for the ammo box at right as a windscreen washer reservoir, drilled a hole for pump on the box at rear right corner. Working like a charm:
Added new brakelines front to back.




Then have to think how to get the wheels bolted properly on.
As the rims are from newer transit (2000+?) the holes for wheel studs are bigger (m14) + and surface is flat on the rim, so cant use normal cone nuts.
First i thought ill drill the hubs and insert bigger m14x2 wheel studs, but theres no centering hub at rear.
Also tried to find some wheel nuts with washer like in the picture with smaller diameter centering sleeve, without luck.

Closest i found was the ones in the picture, M12x1.5.
Plan is to shorten the sleeves to 4mm (same as rim thickness) and drill the lug holes bigger on rims from 16mm->18.5mm (same as the sleeve on the nut)



As for the hub caps, i had some granada mk2 GL hub cap clamps, which i re-bent them a bit and drilled 5x9mm holes in rims. They seem to hold, but lets see after i get this on the road for proper testing.

[Works]

Alot of paperwork was required, but so the van is now motd and road legal again.







Steering is very light and precise on the road now, no need anymore to correct like it used to and it had like half rotation of play on top of that.
Going to take it to a rolling road for a proper tune at some point, as its very slow atm. and fixing leaks etc. if theres need,
but thats it for now, this project is "finished", will be doing other projects (granada/escort) during winter.
Thanks for reading and helping me out.

[dt36]

A lot of paperwork was required, but so the van is now mot'd and road legal again.

Congratulations. This has been a nice build to follow. Hope to see more with the new projects.

Loving the ammo box by the way. 7.62mm = good stopping power

[RS2OOO]

Looks good, well done.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[Works]

Hi,

Thought to write for follow up.


Almost a year passed since last update, whats has happened?:

Ive been driving the van daily to work and basically everywhere, everything is working fine now.

At first the were obviously some issues, which i've already fixed, but nothing major so far.
Few times those self-made coolant joints puked all coolants out, luckily on both times i just arrived home before those happened, re-welded them and havent had any troubles with them since,
another rather expensive fix was the power steering rack that started to leak, ordered a brand new(not rebuilt) one from ebay and that was sorted out.

Since everything has been working so well, i was already thinking on adding some variables and secretly has been hoarding stuff and building parts ready for install.

Some parts already installed, like new fuel pump (-044 copy) /filter


IC installed

Added/relocated gauges


At this point this just needs to happen:

Exhaust manifold modified, (free)turbo ported and bought the missing actuator (0.5Bar), made bracket for it, new exhaust parts waiting. etc.





Trial fitted already, some reservoirs in engine bay needs relocating to clear the air filter.

To be continued...

[alladdin]

[Works]

I was not supposed to do anything major today, but somehow i managed to haul some progress.

Test fitted the turbo on engine again:


Need to re-route some coolant hoses and maybe the expansion tank.


Left ic pipe needs some extension welded to it, going to take it next week to welder. (still havent got a tig to make it myself)



Not much room between, exhaust and breather box.


an10 oil return hose done, oil pan also ready drilled and plugged.



Did the whole exhaust aswell. 2.5"



New pump & bracket (actually it was not 044 but 255lph, remembered incorrectly.


i just could not fit the oil feed hose to block with any adapter i had at hand, so need to wait for next week and try to find one.

[Maizetina]

Great read and nice looking Van👍👍

[Works]

Thanks.


Van is outside and its been roasting hot several weeks now, so its been slower as ive been working only in mornings and evenings.

I have all hoses and stuff sorted/relocated and have a picture in my mind where all the stuff needs to go.
(Trying to achieve a simple, clean and easy to access engine bay, as i hate nothing more than unbolt and tear half car down to get access to something buried under all other crap.)

So had to cut drivers side battery tray out, also ammo box windscreen reservoir needed to go (unfortunately). New reservoir is behind passenger seat in cabin. Still not sure what to do with the ammo box, but trying to look a place for it, maybe a tool box at rear etc.?

Removing stuff allowed quite alot more room on the driversside:






Also flipped radiator fan and its mounting upsidedown to move it more on passenger side, as it was straight in front of turbo intake.



Left both Intake pipes to welder today again, hopefully he gets them welded in next few days, so i can get the van back on the road again soon.

[Works]

Well got them parts back already early today, everything bolted on now.
Starting later when a bit cooler outside. +30C in shade doesnt inspire me to hang out at all.




Possibly going to make an open box/wall for the air filter from aluminium, but thats just fine tuning after getting everything to work first.

[big steve]

looking good, what exhaust manifold are you using or the turbo ?

[Works]

looking good, what exhaust manifold are you using or the turbo ?

Thanks,

Manifold is just the stock blacktop zetec factory exhaust manifold, which i cut and welded upside down and added small extension with T3 flange. Turbo is some chinese garrett copy i guess T3/T4? (Not sure)


Some unexpected issues came up and i havent had time to look into them, building new roof to my house at the moment.

Had engine running already, but couldnt get it to make boost at all. Filed all the flanges straight from exhaust manifold and welded all leaking holes and got the exhaust to hold without any major leaks, but still no boost.
Took oil cap off while idling and noticed quite heavy crankcase pressure? Checked PCV by blowing with compressor some air into it, not clogged... Havent noticed this before, does zetecs usually breathe alot? Or should i start looking for another bottom end.

[katana]

Very odd! Does the turbine actually spin with exhaust pressure / flow - should be observable if exhaust is disconnected? Is wastegate functional or stuck open? Usually if both of those are ok, you should see some boost - even if it is minimal!

PCV's usually function via engine vacuum and with boosted engines that's usually minimal so a lot of boosted engines run open crankcase breathers into catch cans and yes crankcase breathing with boosted engines usually increases due to ring blow-by. Increasing the numbers and size of crankcase ventilation will help ie. you can't have too much!

The above would imply the engine is making boost - maybe the boost guage has taken a dump? Stock OEM cast pistons won't take much boost before crying enough - how much is dependent on every engine!

[Works]

Very odd! Does the turbine actually spin with exhaust pressure / flow - should be observable if exhaust is disconnected? Is wastegate functional or stuck open? Usually if both of those are ok, you should see some boost - even if it is minimal!

PCV's usually function via engine vacuum and with boosted engines that's usually minimal so a lot of boosted engines run open crankcase breathers into catch cans and yes crankcase breathing with boosted engines usually increases due to ring blow-by. Increasing the numbers and size of crankcase ventilation will help ie. you can't have too much!

The above would imply the engine is making boost - maybe the boost guage has taken a dump? Stock OEM cast pistons won't take much boost before crying enough - how much is dependent on every engine!

Yep, turbine spins but at idle it stops spinning, exhaust is connected. It improved quite alot when i patched the manifold obviously.
I was thinking that could exhaust manifold tubes be too small of diameter and restrict flow...?
Took PCV box out and cleaned it, valve was also functional. Adding a catch can with slightly bigger hose and testing tomorrow if it helps.
Gauge is a chinese cheapo and atleast it shows vacuum, but at standing no boost, havent revved over 4K. Trying out another gauge also tomorrow, think i have one in my escort.

[Graham]

Yep, turbine spins but at idle it stops spinning, exhaust is connected. It improved quite alot when i patched the manifold obviously.
I was thinking that could exhaust manifold tubes be too small of diameter and restrict flow...?
Took PCV box out and cleaned it, valve was also functional. Adding a catch can with slightly bigger hose and testing tomorrow if it helps.
Gauge is a chinese cheapo and atleast it shows vacuum, but at standing no boost, havent revved over 4K. Trying out another gauge also tomorrow, think i have one in my escort.

its not exhaust restriction, maybe if your trying to get 2 bar boost @6,000 rpm but it should build some boost with what your doing

once the turbo has spun up i would expect it to keep spinning even at idle.

turbo looks new? unhook the actuator and check the wastegate is actually shut

[katana]

Yep, turbine spins but at idle it stops spinning, exhaust is connected. It improved quite alot when i patched the manifold obviously.
I was thinking that could exhaust manifold tubes be too small of diameter and restrict flow...?
Took PCV box out and cleaned it, valve was also functional. Adding a catch can with slightly bigger hose and testing tomorrow if it helps.
Gauge is a chinese cheapo and atleast it shows vacuum, but at standing no boost, havent revved over 4K. Trying out another gauge also tomorrow, think i have one in my escort.

Ah - even a new turbo with plain bearings should spin slowly at idle - something to look at.
Last sentence is telling - i'm assuming this hasn't been on the road ie. under load? Few engines with 'old skool' plain bearing turbo's will show boost if 'free revved'. Go for a drive, put some load on it - it'll make a difference!

[Works]

Took a short drive with caution and got the pressure up.
https://vimeo.com/579033328

Still not sure about the crankcase pressure, without the oil cap it blows quite alot through it, but when setting oil filler cap on and near where you have to screw it in locked position, it feels like it sucks it in?
Anyway catch can didnt do anything way or another, left one of them 3 holes open and it pushes some fumes out of it. Engine doesnt smoke at all though.

Guess its time to take it for a tune next.

[Works]

Catch can added on intake side as there was quite alot of free space, guess ill leave it there and order a new one for escort. Unless it starts to stink too much, i add a hose somewhere under the car or through inner wing etc.

[Works]

Been busy with home roof still, but finally got the engine tuned on a dyno:

Boost went up to 0.8bar, have 0.5 wastegate actuator...


Not bad for a stock engine i guess, didnt expect it to pull out that much.
I swapped a month ago volvo V70 mk2 R injectors ~ 430cc and noticed that head gasket ordered when i did head rebuild was infact 1.3mm thick (st170?), otherwise stock engine

Also found a rare upgrade: transit MK5 DOHC MT-75 gearbox. Need to find a propshaft, gearstick and crossmember for it, which shouldnt be hard as diesels should have same parts.
Something to upgrade when winter arrives. T9 aside for comparison.

[Works]

Update for a while.

Lifted engine out already few weeks ago and been busy sourcing parts, i think i have most of them by now.




- A 98 Transit Petrol MT-75 Gearbox, which bolted straight into Zetec. Tested out and seems like focus clutch doesnt need to be swapped, only release bearing is way too short. Googleing up = need an ~20mm extension, which is on the way in making, but again its very hard to find someone with a lathe AND time to make parts in here, so it might take a while to get it done. Drawings/Measurements left in a machineshop few weeks ago...



- New propshaft (Front part needs to be cut and lenghtened about ~20cm)
-> left some toyo prop (freebie from a friend, going to be used for extension), mk5 prop, old mk2


- mk4/5 Rear Axle propshaft flange (No idea yet if bores will fit in mk2 rear axle, but i hope its a straight swap)


- Hole for old cable shifter in floorpan needs to be welded up


- Engine needs to be lifted about 10mm, otherwise gearbox is going to hit steering rack. (Plan is to make spacers under engine mounting rubbers)


- Gearbox crossmember should be arriving any day this week also.

Should keep me busy for next few months...

[Works]

Fast update.

Got gearbox crossmember, width is exactly the same as old one, rear mounting point match holes in chassis. Front ones are too short and need to be extended.
At this point i have no idea about the mounting height, but well see after the engine package is back in.


Gearbox rubber does not fit in crossmember, not sure if theres missing something between or just wrong type of rubber bushing/mount. Atleast i havent seen/found another type yet. Modification required.


Atleast something was straight fit (Forgot to order a new seal, would be stupid not to change while the flange is out, so back to ordering one.)

[Works]

Been lazy on updates, progress been kinda slow as well lately, but here's what i've managed to create in past months:

First link bar bushings were not really in great shape. MOT man didnt like them much, but understood that you cant really go into shop and buy new ones, so he granted pass.


Upon inspecting abit closer at them links and their mounting brackets, they werent much better either.


So after several months after ordering parts from metal shop i finally got them and made new links and brackets:




Ready for install:


Gearbox testfitted and holes for Type9 on cabin floor welded shut.




Propshaft chopped, got to find someone with a lathe again for re weld, hopefully doesnt take another 6 months to receive it back.


STD Zetec clutch disc didnt work with mt75, so had to get a sintered disc. More on that issue in next update.

[Works]

Clutch pt.2

So, i finally have all the parts i need to bolt stuff back on the van.
Issues with the clutch disc was, that it didint reach enough on the splines on the input shaft, as in picture, it was only half on. mt75 has them about 10-15mm further back than T9.



Sintered disc centre hub sticks out more out from other side, which sits perfect on the splines:




Kicked the latheman in arse today and after an hour he called that the extension is ready. Tig-glued on with 4 spots


Tapped threads on box and made adjustable pivot bolt


Cable adapter sleeve was needed



Gearbox crossmember modified & derusted in citrid acid. Took old mounts from mk2 crossmember and just welded them on the newer xmember, bolts right in old mounting holes in chassis.



Propshaft ready aswell, still thinking that should i send it to rebalancing, or try first.


Next to throw everything back in the van again.

[Works]

Last update... atleast for now or until i get new ideas for upgrades

Parts being bolted back in the van




Ended up chopping a chunk from the bellhousing to clear PAS pipe. Easy and the lazy way
Also made new engine mounts from scratch as engine was not in straight line, should be now.


New pinion seal & oils in rear axle, drilled a drain hole as well. Propshaft lengthened and rebalanced.


Had to modify whole front end of exhaust to clear new gearbox crossmember


Cleared engine bay a bit more and relocated coil pack inside cabin.



First ~20km test drive of hauling furniture done and everything seems to be working without issues so far.


Thanks for reading and have a great summer.

[Works]

This project doesnt want to end it seems, so lets update the thread again.

Drove whole summer without noticeable issues, but as i went to MOT some months ago, everything else was a pass, exept emissions tests did not pass the MOT. Tried to adjust ignition and fuel at mot station to get it to pass but failed.
Looked like spark plugs 1 & 4 were black, also AFR was something like ~13.5 at idle, also exhaust did smell rich.

Did all the tricks that could cause the issues, swapped coil, spark plugs, checked leaks in inlet, but nothing fixed the issue.
With a sketchy compression tester, there was noticeable difference in results i got, took the head off and confirmed that several valves were leaking. Also conrod 3 bearing didnt look too good either.
One sleeve i had made for exhaust manifold bolt, had been squished sideways somehow between the head and exhaust manifold, which was another cause of high emissions.


So engine out again and this time a full rebuild.

At this point parts have already been at machine shop and ive started to rebuild already slowly. (Ive been surprised how hard and expensive its to get gaskets for a zetec since ordering from uk is out now, had to order every single gasket separately around europe, which took some time.)

Done at machine shop:

Block:
cylinders honed
deck straightened, as it was not straight
Crankshaft straightened, & journals polished
Oilpump checked

Head:
3-angle valve seats
2 completely new valves for cyl1&4 exhausts

Block painted, sump and other bits & pieces sandblasted at work:







Did some mild porting myself while head was off again:



Swapped work half year ago and have now access to a tig, so immediately made a more rwd suitable valve cover with an10 breather at rear:



Putting everything back together as soon as i get the parts.

[katana]

Have you fitted new rings? Only ask as even if a minute amount of material removed with the honing it will increase ring gaps and existing rings will be worn so probably have bigger gaps?
All leading to possibility for increased blow by in a 'pressurised' engine. Hate for you to be tearing down 'fresh' engine as its smokey!

[Works]

Yep, ofc got brand new Hastings rings installed and ends gapped withn specs, along with all new bearings and gaskets. Planned first to buy frs pistons from burton, but could not find conrods for them anywhere.
H-rods are out of budget, so going to re-ring old pistons for now.

Have you fitted new rings? Only ask as even if a minute amount of material removed with the honing it will increase ring gaps and existing rings will be worn so probably have bigger gaps?
All leading to possibility for increased blow by in a 'pressurised' engine. Hate for you to be tearing down 'fresh' engine as its smokey!

[Works]

Engine is back in and had it running again yesterday.
Some weird ticking sound coming from back of the engine though, which goes with rpm. Maybe some clutch related issue, still havent investigated much yet. Just hoping that i dont need to open the engine. :/

[rallyrob]

alternator tensioner are done. (Bracket is made from some scrap metal found lying around ofc)


Swapped pulley from old alternator, which i used to test fit things to new one: (both are pinto alternators, pulley from zetec)

What did you use for the main alternator bracket, not the tensioner bracket? I like the way you made the tensioner bracket though.

[Works]

You mean the small bracket that is bolted on head? Its just small piece of 8mm metal with 2 drilled holes and 90* piece with m8 nut welded on for the tensioner bracket.

[rallyrob]

You mean the small bracket that is bolted on head? Its just small piece of 8mm metal with 2 drilled holes and 90* piece with m8 nut welded on for the tensioner bracket.

No, I mean the lower bracket that the two lower lugs of the alternator are bolted to.

[Works]

[rallyrob]

Ah, I see, quite simple really, brilliant thanks

[Works]

Still havent found the cause of noise... Found out that machine shop didnt adjust valve clearances, even though they rebuilt the head... Had to find shims and did the shimming myself, but that didnt solve the problem.

Also took engine out and checked clutch, found out pilot bearing was bad, so replaced that and threw engine back in.


Seems like fuel pressure regulator (3.8 Bar) is not working as it should be anymore, gauge tells its only putting 2 bar and letting rest through back to tank. Maybe i burned it when i welded an6 bung into it. Another one is on the way, but thinking of adding an aftermarked adjustable regulator now.




Aand theres next project on the list already. gathering stuff for it already:

[Works]

Things havent gone as planned at all lately >.>

Bought a cheapo fuel pressure regulator... big mistake:


Straight out of the box, it didnt hold pressure at all , notice the notch in middle...

Didnt want to wait for a week to get a replacement, so i used valve lapping compound for few hours and got it to hold pressure.
Did it remove the noise?, nope

Well next new bench tested injectors in the basket and threw them in:

Did that remove the noise? Nope...

Ive come into conclusion now, that theres nothing wrong with the engine, ive listened with wooden stick from all sides, top to bottom and the tapping sound comes from injectors. Braided hoses and aluminium hardlines just transfer noise so well inside the van.
Solution: add soundproof isulation to firewall.

Some few minor fixed and next try MOT

[Works]

Into next problem...

Noticed timing belt driving out from backside of camshaft sprockets (hanging out 1-2mm) and walking back and forth a bit.
Opened and re did timing for about 30 times now and cant get it to settle where it should be.

Got new gates timing belt kit including tensioners, checked tensioner backing plate and cleaned mating surfaces, checked that crank sprocket: front text is forward, tried another camshaft sprockets and swapped them around...

[Works]

Timing belt issue solved, the big washer was on wrong side of crank sprocket, should be on backside. Not sure how that happened, but no damage done, only alot of time wasted.

One issue fixed, three new ones found.
1. Coolant leak from one of hoses from thermostat housing, fixed.
2: Oil leak from front of oil pan?, or i hope its oil pan rather than front crank seal...
3. Fuel maps are messed up. Probably because when i was at mot last year and tried to adjust them to get it through emissions test.

Patience really getting tested atm.

[Works]

This engine build has taken alot more time as expected, and still not on the road.

Oil leaks are atleast sorted out now finally. First it was front crank seal leaking, which i had managed somehow to install badly, half of the inner lip was missing.
Next oil pan gasket was leaking from rear, had to glue it all the way around oil pan to get it to seal properly.
Using a broken spark plug socket, one spark plug went to pieces, waited 2 weeks to get a replacement from europe, as i couldnt find them here anywhere...

Engine still running lean, atleast on idle / low rpm when fuel pressure is set to 2-3bar @ idle. Things go better when set to 4 bar @ idle but thats 5.5?bar at 1bar of boost so maybe too much? what should it be on a zetec stock fuel pressure regulator? Stock regulator is 3.8bar, but i never had a gauge on it to see what it should be at idle.




Swapped rusty door to a better one


Tested some 2 color scheme if you wonder about the black paint.


Applied a layer of fresh paint with zero fux given.

[katana]

3.8 bar sounds high for a stock zetec - fairly sure mine was 2.7 bar which I've raised to 3.0 bar for NA use.

[Works]

Have 2 blacktop fuel regulators, both are 100% from 1.8/2.0 blacktops
p/n: 0 280 160 601 / V988F-9C968-AA
380kPa stamped on them = 3.8 Bar