my mate reckons that a transit van has got a big bell housing bolted to a type 9 gearbox as it uses a cossie sized clutch. I need to find out for sure though as this would mean i could use the cossie flywheel i've got saving £200 and then a normal nice cossie sierra clutch . I would still need tunnel mods but that's not too bad as it will only be the bell housing bit that fouls the bodywork . Anyone know about transit vans then ? pray: .................
You could always derate the engine to about 180bhp and keep your running gear
At least you will of saved on buying a new set of points
hmmm, trannies, yeah i've had a few gearboxes out of them, they bolted to a big adapter plate on the back of the engine, huge gearbox tunnel required for that me thinks, oh and the bellhouing is a nice heavy cast one
i could selling the foooookin thing a buy a 2.2 race pinto insteadOriginally Posted by mk1matt
You could always derate the engine to about 180bhp and keep your running gear
At least you will of saved on buying a new set of points, but 210 bhp will still need a straight cut box , paddle clutch , uprated axle etc so i'll keep the 250+ bhp and struggle on
aaaaah sounds cheap though
Reading this with interest because I guess you've spent a lot of money on your engine but haven't given the overall package much thought.
1) You'll need to run a lightened flywheel on your engine to make the best use of its performance. A heavy stock flywheel will strangle it. You are best to use a proper steel flywheel & not a lightened iron one. There is a high risk that a lightened iron flywheel will shatter. The cost of a new steel one is similar to a standard one that's been lightened.
2) Clutch. Any standard friction lining won't survive. You'll need at least a cerametallic disc, sprung centre for the road use preferable, & an uprated cover with stiffer spring. However a cerametallic disc will wear the surfaces of the flywheel & cover rapidly so the better option would be to go for an organic lining (softer & kinder to metal surfaces) but with 2 discs instead of one. Quarter Master do a very good twin plate set up that enables some "slipping" for when you are driving in traffic.
3) A capri box, even a V6 one with a large diameter layshaft & needle roller bearings, will not stand this power or engine revs. It's the engine revs that kill the bearings, not the load that's going into it. The synchro baulk rings will last only 5 minutes & the iron maincase will crack. Put your money towards an ally cased dog box. Quaife do a good one that copes with 250 hp & good torque reliably & you have a range of ratio's to choose from. It is based on the type 9 bolt pattern for the bell housing so you can use an RS2000 ally bellhousing straight off the shelf, it bolts straight to it easy.
4) Axle. A plate slipper is a must. If you are running an english don't put wide or sticky tyres on it otherwise you'll snap the half shafts. The secret is to have a set up that breaks traction before it breaks shafts. The better option is to go atlas. if you are putting the money into a plate lsd anyway, spend it on one for an atlas.
Hope this helps.
cheers for the reply windy. I had a twin plate racing clutch in my renault 5 turbo 2 mid -engined group b car and it was ok on the street but cost £900 !!!!!
. I'll look into one for the escort though mate . I've got no traction to worry about as i'm using 7x13 rims with road tyres so i'm hoping that an uprated english will last otherwise i'll need an expensive atlas as well
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Have a look on www.racecar.co.uk or www.rallyusedparts.co.uk. There are quite a few secondhand bits that are for sale at reasonable prices, especially towards the end of the race season when people are breaking cars for spares etc.
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