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Wirelock? I'd say that would be a surefire way of retaining the bolts.
I agree it would stop them coming out BUT wouldn't prevent them loosening which takes an engine out job to sort. Another suggestion I've had from a friend was to install studs with a '' full blown threadlocker '' then use K nuts ----- just not sure the studs would stay tight and the K nuts are strong enough ? , they look pretty skinny , I've got some on suspension pick-up bolts but are tipexed across the nut/thread and I can see them ----- once the engine/bell H/box are bolted up you can see sod all . I had wondered just how much it is safe to cut out of a FORD ally bell housing (at the top) to see plus be able to tighten ?????
I already have holes cut in it for hyd pipes and at the bottom side for chassis clearance . I saw a guy at an event with a Sylva Striker and his bell housing was drilled all over the top with 40/50 mm's holes , very close together ---- possibly not ally though .
I was thinking maybe just two holes but about 90mm's diameter , just about enough room to put a ratchet in ???
Took an age but just read this one from the start................very interesting, some great tales and even better results along the way.
Thank you very much Rob - a superb thread.
Very nice of you to say so Hoogi , there's a wealth of expertise on this forum which is one reason for being on it but it's good to put your thoughts down in print too --- especially when your hobby/obsession is not of any interest to your neighbours or wife
I had bolts going into the bellhousing as per normal but the two outer ones had nuts on the back with some off the ally ground off to give room for them. If you want to fit conventional bolts i can send you some M10 nordloc washers which come in pairs and are very hard to shake loose. These with capheads should stay put, you can even put some medium strength threadlock on as well to be absolutely sure.
Just sent you a PM regarding NORDLOCK washers David
Just sent you a PM regarding NORDLOCK washers David
Pm'd back..
Wirelocking is great too, but it has to be done well to work properly. I used to do a lot of it and its amazing how many times it looks really tight and yet you can put a spanner on and loosen the bolt an eighth of a turn, enough to eventually allow the parts to move.. When done right though it is brilliant, just a bit more time consuming.
Sierra cosworth turbo race car QMN saloon car championship RETRO Motorsport
I went to the funeral of Sandra Harrison-Moore today , the lady driver who lost her life at Goodwood on the 28th April . Shame she didn't get today's sunny warm weather at Goodwood but people speaking about her life , short though it was , told of a glittering career in the medical profession and the church was full plus many standing . RIP Sandra
Thanks , David_White for those washers Having stripped the hydraulic clutch nose ready for the seal kit that's arrived , I can now see what the gel type gunge was in the oil ----- the inner seal within the piston is disintegrating and worn flat on one side The only thing
Thanks , David_White for those washers Having stripped the hydraulic clutch nose ready for the seal kit that's arrived , I can now see what the gel type gunge was in the oil ----- the inner seal within the piston is disintegrating and worn flat on one side The only thing
Didn't finish what I'd intended to say WHICH was ---- maybe the R600 race oil I put in the clutch master cylinder was the cause of seal failure ? Having done it , a mate quickly told me to get it out which I did by flushing through with dot 4 but maybe the damage was already started ?
Anyway , I bolted the hydraulic nose , spacer and front cover back onto the gearbox but had no clue as to the correct torque settings. Asked around , including Burtons , no one seemed to know ---- which is why I guessed it by spanner the first time. This time I used the guess first then pulled them up with the torque wrench , gradually going past my guess settings to end up at 12lbft on the ally to box front cover and 10lbft for the ally hyd nose to ally fronnt cover ----- plus the blue locktite. Hope it's enough ? Definitely higher than my guess torque from fitting it new in 2006/7 .
The bell housing's back on the box now complete with Nordlock washers (thanks again David !) Nordlock advice was torque plus 20% , so on went blue locktite and 81lbft with the torque wrench (normal is 66lbft)
Seeing as it was out of the chassis , I also put the new gearbox rubber mount on that I bought at Raceretro this year. Cleaned out the quickshift , regreased and put back on with Norlock's too ! Same on the two mount bolts , Nordlock's I mean !
My box being a Quaife type 9 out of a Caterham , it has a little 50mm steel cover just below the main front cover. It's never loosened before but took it's three bolts out and re-tightened with locktite blue ----- last time the box was out for a rebuild I didn't touch this one BUT thought , well , belt and braces
The Girling clutch master cylinder is also rebuilt and back in place , as is the new ring gear and flywheel/clutch assembly. Ready for engine back in tomorrow. Went to a wedding reception last night so today will be relaxed !!!
Engine in now all plumbed up and wired again , just the throttle cable to set full throttle and tighten up. Took the engine mounts off and block breather to tidy up and paint again , they were ok but once everything's out you may as well tart it up again , in case you're lucky and the engine stops where it is for 5 yrs
Waiting for gearbox oil , grease and water wetter to arrive before a start up ''attempt'' --------- well with my history on electrical gremlins , you never know aye
I think I've probably got Nordlock - i - tis now after getting paranoid about anything coming loose again ---- I've got them just about everywhere you can imagine
Yep ----- got Millersoilsnanotechitis too I used to use Redline everything but now using Millers engine and box nanotech , still using Redline Water wetter though and ZX1 Extralube in all liquid areas(no dry sump , so arse covering)
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