Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

That loom is fantastic, really making me want to do my engine loom again!

Do you get those ITT connectors from work?

I use similar AMP connectors at work, but the backshells are rediculously long, these on the other hand look very suitable!

Thanks Jason, re-wiring the car is not a job I'd embark on unless you were upgrading something.

Looking at the gauge of wire used in your control box, I'd probably re-wire that using Thinwall cable, as it does look a tad on the 'heavy-duty' side. I cannot fault the construction however. Very nice. I hope my new box comes out looking half as good.

The backshells are made by ITT Cannon, and are also from WWW.RSWWW.COM Part number is 273-5562, and they're less than a couple of quid each. I used 24mm adhesive heatshrink on the back, to seal the Nomex in place. And they're also considerably lighter than the ones I used previously.

Your car is inspirational btw (yes, I'll be adding carbon panels to the tops of my switch boxes - yours looks the dogs ). Probably going for 1.5mm panels, as 1.0mm may distort when the switches are bolted in place.

Last night I mocked up the positions of the switches on the control box (9 in all Plus the starter button), and I've also found a better spot for the box (that I can still reach with the harnesses on).

[jason33]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Thanks Jason, re-wiring the car is not a job I'd embark on unless you were upgrading something.

Looking at the gauge of wire used in your control box, I'd probably re-wire that using Thinwall cable, as it does look a tad on the 'heavy-duty' side. I cannot fault the construction however. Very nice. I hope my new box comes out looking half as good.

The backshells are made by ITT Cannon, and are also from WWW.RSWWW.COM Part number is 273-5562, and they're less than a couple of quid each. I used 24mm adhesive heatshrink on the back, to seal the Nomex in place. And they're also considerably lighter than the ones I used previously.

Your car is inspirational btw (yes, I'll be adding carbon panels to the tops of my switch boxes - yours looks the dogs ). Probably going for 1.5mm panels, as 1.0mm may distort when the switches are bolted in place.

Last night I mocked up the positions of the switches on the control box (9 in all Plus the starter button), and I've also found a better spot for the box (that I can still reach with the harnesses on).

That is the only regret I have, doing it in industrial cable, but that was free and I couldnt justify spending a hell of alot of money just to save another kg. If I had the extra cash to play with I wouldnt think twice about doing it again.

Thanks for the part number. I will probably wire in a bulkhead connector like that, as currently to remove the engine loom I have to remove the DTA plug to pass it though the bulkhead hole - not ideal.

Where abouts were you planning on mounting your switch box?

I mounted my box on the floor to get the weight down as much as possible, in hindsight after racing with it I had mounted it a little too far back to reach comfortably, even after spending along time planning where I would mount it.

I will be moving it forwards and closer to the seat now I wont be having a handbrake.

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

I'm mounting the box on the passenger floor, adjacent to the exhaust tunnel. Similar to how I had it before, but with the box now turned through 90 degrees. The starter button, ignition switch, and wiper motor switch are now all on the control box rather than on a seperate panel next to the steering wheel. Trying to get C of G as low as possible this time, so everything, switches, wiring, etc, are being move to the floor.


The original ctrl box (at the foot of the picture with the switches on) is now gone, and the same size box is used for the replacement, but turned through 90 degrees.

Thats an old picture BTW. No handbrake now, and several other changes to the interior to keep the weight down.

TBH when I opted to ditch the Zetec for the Duratec, I killed two birds with one stone, as the first loom I made also used 'industrial' spec cabling, and this time its thinwall all the way, which is suprisingly cheap (from vehicle wiring products), and looks way too small a gauge for the currents quoted in the specs. I get 17% discount and free next day delivery from RSWWW, hence the amount of their gear that I'm using. 8-)

I sat in the car with the harnesses on last night to make sure that the switch box was within reach. I couldn't help grabbing hold of the steering wheel and making some brum brum noises. Wont be long now 8-)

And I'll be squeezing more relays and more wires in to the same sized box as before, which should be fun!

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Mock up of the control panel

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Wired up the traction control switch last night, by directly soldering the resistors to the switch, thus



It needs to be connected to the ECU, and thats still a while away. The switch supplied the analogue input on the S80 with 0V to 5V, in 500mV steps, representing 0-10-20-30-40-50-60-70-80-90-100% aggressiveness for the traction control setting.

Current draw is less than 1mA

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Busy again last night.

Rear of the traction control switch, showing (from my phone) the resistors soldered to the back of the 12 way switch. There is a lock stop on the switch that means it only travels 11 positions to give to 0-100% in 11 steps.


This is the template on the control box, prior to drilling the 12mm holes for all the switches.


This is the box with all 9 switches fitted, and the push button starter switch.


The carbon panels are arriving today, so I'll remove the switches, drill holes to the same layout in the carbon panel, and then fit the panel to the top of the box (like Jason33's Fiesta control box - liked the idea, hope mine looks as good).

I've changed the positions of the switches on the control panel. All the switches nearest the fuse box are always on for the car to run, so I can easily push them all forward to ensure that the car will run.

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Carbon panels arrived from Ledon Racing Services



An hour in the workshop, and the first panel is fitted.


The remaining two panels are for the 2nd black box in the car, the one with the isolator switch, and the other one is for the engine bay, to cover the hole where the bonnet catch used to sit. I've used an ally sheet, but it looks quite tatty after a while.

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Some better clearer pictures

[jason33]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Fantastic as always

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Oil adapter plate has arrived, as designed by Custom Karl and CNC machined by BR & D Engineering in W.Sussex.

http://www.brdengineering.net/

This will allow me to fit the oil lines to the Duratec. They both point down towards the ground, and are tapped to 1/2BSP

[jason33]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Smart.

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Just need to get it anodised. Another job for next week. 8-)

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Isolator box cover - done

[exboyracer]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Nice to see your standards are still as high as ever

Can't wait to see this one back in action!

[team_zi]

Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber

Ordered 1/2BSP -10 adapters today for the new adapter plate.

Now I can focus on plumbing the radiator in....

Now, do any of the hose manufacturers allow you to take the car to them, so they can take their exhaustive collection of hoses and find ones that fit. Or am I stuck with the usual, buy it and try it option?