Escort Sigma 1600 Race Car

[Tristan]

Re: DIY mani

where do you have to lose the 7cm? Vertically or laterally?

Bet you let loose a few choice words when you found that...

[Roadsport]

Re: DIY mani

where do you have to lose the 7cm? Vertically or laterally?

Bet you let loose a few choice words when you found that...

The overall lenght of each pipe will have to be shorten by 7 odd cm's. Need to measure it again myself to be sure.
I'll tweak the fourth pipe a bit and cut the straight sections shorter from the top/ start of the pipe and shorten the straight parts before the extractor.
This will move the manifold closer to the engine and the extractor closer to the x-member.
Need to put a heat shield sleeve on to the clutch cable.

And yes I cried like a baby and took out a rope and started to look for a strong branch.

No , seriously I was pissed but after all it should not bee such a tough job.

[wide ka]

Re: DIY mani

looking great, carnt wait to see how get on with it!

[Roadsport]

Re: DIY mani

looking great, carnt wait to see how get on with it!

Thanks Al.

No progress during the weekend.
I wisited Switserland to pick up a puppy and it all turned out a travelling nightmare.

[Roadsport]

Re: DIY mani

Some updates.
The manifold was finished today. Now its precisely the lenght it should be. Finally.
The appearance did not change much. But that is the final version in the pics. Now to get the seams TIG welded and to get it coated. Not sure which coat to apply tough.

The wiring took a step forward today too. Sorted the ground wires and the ignition module wiring. Also did the wiring for the COP's. Turned out quite nice if you don't mind me saying.

[Roadsport]

Also...

[Moggy]

Re: Also...

Noooo!!!!!

[Roadsport]

Re: Also...

I'm still with you on this one Moggy. Don't be afraid. Only thinking that there's a nice space to fill there. Maybe fot the futureb elt driven charger.... or more likely a place for the alternator in the evo two set up.
I'm already working on mounting the reservoir to the boot. It's going to sit quite high tough and the oil migration will propably be an issue.
Don't want to isnstall the reservoir on the sides of the boot where the spare wheel and the original fuel tank were. This easy to clean Pace tank will easily open up under impact. A little kiss in the competition and I'm always out of the race. So in the middle of the boot is the place for the tank for me. Atleast the oil will drain easily down to the oilpump so it will always be available.

Maybe I could install a valve of some sort to plug the oil line during long parking period. The valve should be elecrical to cut of ignition when oil line is shut to prevent the engine to be fired up without lubrication.

[Moggy]

Re: Also...

[QUOTE=Roadsport;1658972]I'm still with you on this one Moggy. Don't be afraid.
I'm already working on mounting the reservoir to the boot. QUOTE]

Good man. We have major oil migration issues......I have a swith which isolates the ecu so we can crank the engine without it firing or fueling whilst the pump empties the crankcase.

[Roadsport]

Re: Also...

Yes I'll need that too at least. But what about if the engine is literally filled with oil. Won't cranking it do any harm?
The oil should not find it's way past the piston rings on to the pistons so it should not be able to bend the rods.

How much higher than the pump is your oil tank?

[Moggy]

Re: Also...

tank is much higher than the pump......almost all the oil migrates back to the crankcase when not in use.....we just pump it out, only takes a few seconds.

What crossmember are you using? We are collecting parts for our car now and are trying to decide what crossmember to get.....the engine will be chassis mounted like yours and have the same make of sump. The car will be more or less standard height so I don't think we need to go for a lowered rack (unless it's for clearance).

[Roadsport]

Re: Also...

By pumping do you mean cranking the engine without firing it. Cutting the spark or better yet fuel? Cranking the engine without spark would still drive fuel to the cylinders thus aiding the oil dilution.

You can use both crossmemers. Both high and low rack will clear but dry sump pan is needed.
Mine clears the member and the bonnet. But the COP coil just barely hits the strut brace (no problems if you use normal leads). So need to adjust it a bit. I used the std height rack mounts since my ride height is so low. The lower rack crossmember would have put my steering rods in an aqward position facing upward. And at this moment did not fancy modifying the rod ends.
I used the Escort std (non WC) crossmember. Now the steering rods are quite level with the TCA's so I'm quite happy with that. I only cut away the engine mounts. The engine is fastened to the chassis.
If you are running near std ride height, I propably would go for the lower rack xmember. This way the engine can sit just that much lower .

There are some xmember pics on page 3 of this thread.

[Moggy]

Re: Also...

Yes we have a switched power supply to the ECU, so no fuel or sparks whilst cranking. Once the sump is empty, we give the ECU power and then fire it up.

I thought the low rack mount crossmember was mainly for cars with increased ride height...like forest car?

[Roadsport]

Re: Also...

I thought the low rack mount crossmember was mainly for cars with increased ride height...like forest car?

When you lower the car the crossmember sits closer to the ground, while the tyres of course remain on the ground. This will alter the steering rod angle. Having the rod ends higher than the rack itself will affect the seering geometry. Mounting the rack even lower on the xmember will make things worse. One could of course modify the steering arms in the uprights to compensate.
The same thing could happen when increasing the ride height. And this time lowering the rack would help with the steering geometry. So propably is intended for the forest stage cars in the first place.

How much lower is the lower rack mount? Mounting a Pinto one or two centimeters lower makes sence but does it make any real difference with the sigma engines?
However if I was to do it all again I'd go for the lower rack and modified steering arms (if I was not as lazy as I was the first time around) .

[Roadsport]

Re: Also...

Picked up the eaxhaust manifold from the welder today. The primary tubes are all TIG welded now.
And they came out great. If anyone from southern Finland happens to be reading this I can strongly recommend the Lakesteel's services (www.lakesteel.org) . The service was super fast, top quality job and very reasonably priced
I'll finish up the manifold this week and take it over to be coated.

Shortened to the right lenght and welded.



Dont need to clean up these welds!