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Its my view of a combination of added rigidity and oil capacity. Added oil to help the tiny CWP cope better. And axle braces to keep the wheel movement under control. Oil cooler would propably work too but I think thats a bit too complicated and I'd still be left with a axle that may bend under braking and acceleration.
Yes it is. If it wasnt for me whiteline ARB the weekend would've been a sad one. But gladly it took one for the team. From now on all my ARB's are installed this way.
The hub was an alloy one. Ten years old and of much weaker design than the alli hubs on sale today.
And mine propably had taken some damage during my front brake issues when the pads seized up and the discs were juddering like crazy and red hot. A race after the brake issue I had mended the brakes, changed the fluids but the brakes were fading and the pedal went deep during twisty bends. I thought there was still some air in the system. Only after fitting the cast iron hub at the paddocks year after I realised it was the broken hub acting up all along. Prior to the failure I felt only a slight judder to my steering wheel while turing right. I could not find anything loose at the paddock so gave it another run. The judder was there but no worse than before. No noises just a slight judder and then the Escort turned into a sled. Examening the broken hub revealed there were some cracks with brake dust in it so it had not gone in one go. From now on I'll know how a broken hub feels like.
But I'd say there is no reason not to use these current alloy hubs. Mine was of weak design, beaten and battered, old and finally broken. I'll deffo order new ones and leave the other hub as a spare. Not that I think I'll ever need one again.
Now I still need to sort out the leaking wheel bearings. Both of them leaked trough the bearing seal Maybe something to do with me bending the axle to achieve the wanted wheel angles or then the bearings were'tn the high quality item they claimed to be.
I'll order new ones and install additional axle seals in the bearing housing below the wjeel bearing. 30 x 50 axle seal should do it
Some mid season development. I've always wanted to try a 4-2-1 manifold. Today I decided to give a go at making my own 4 to 2 merge collectors.
Still rough but I believe I got quite far in a few hours. Im quite happy with the outcome and I do believe I'll make another one.
Now I really do not have a clue on what the primary and secondary lenghts should be lenghts but I believe the sizes will be 38.5mm bore primaries and 41.5 secondaries.
Now I got me two colectors and a milled out flange. I'm having hard time finding the right size starter tube though.
Adressed the leaking bearings too. I still do not know why both rear wheel bearings leaked oil trough them. COuld not see anything wrong with the bearing seals but they were filled with gear oil which had in turn rinsed the bearing crease all out.
I'm having hard time to believe both of them would have been faulty. Perhaps they are just no good quality wise. Anyways I decided to Install a second set of axle seals. Maybe this will hold or even reduce the leakege to more manageable level.
Started work on the starter tubes today. I chose to use a thick wall seamless tube. I skimmed the flange side of the tubes down to fit inside the flange. And left the manifold side thick. This way I can slide the bigger primary tubes snugly over the starter tubes and avoind any huge steps or gaps in the joint of the two different dia tubes. Also left them quite long to be cut to lenght later.
I bashed the tubes to a rough figure 8 to shrink them down to fit inside the flange. Now I need to tack them on and use a hammer and a dolly to stretch them to correct shape.
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