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dunno i'll see if i can find an old one to read it off
I had one for measuring but it did not say what grade it was. But have not seen many 12.9 grade bolts used by car manufacturers. The toughest bolts always seem to be 10.9. Propably for a good reason.
If you have clearance then you could use high tensile studs and nuts yes for sure, they would be quite short though, easier to find some bolts I imagine, what is the thread size? if you could get some 12.9 grade bolts they would be best
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Enzo Ferrari
I´d rather get the equal to OE grade but longer. The OE torque spec is for particular grade so in my books its best to stick with that. The torque spec may not be ideal to 12.9 grade bolt since it may not get the stretch needed and therefore come loose.
The tread is 3/8 UNF so not very rare only I wish to keep the collar/ the un threadded bit
Oh, and And for the record I have to correct my previous statement I have seen 12.9 grade bolts now that I think of it. The Ford 1.8 diesels use 12.9 flywheel bolts
Priceless. Can the jury cinfirm these Haynes specs?
Also as for the bolts my alternative otions are 10.9 bolts with full thread or cut down a longer bolt with 13mm unthreaded collar and use a nordlock locking washer. Any suggestions?
I'm a believer when it comes to nordlock washers but have only used them on crank bolts and prop bolts. Is there some reason I should not use then with the CW?
the tightening torque fig chart is an exact copy paste of the one in my ford rs1600 workshop manual which is a genuine ford publication, so i'd say yes
Did some hands on research on the bolt options. The universal bolt market is quite limited and this was my best bet.
I cut 12mm off the bolt to make sure it would not bottom out. This leaves me with a healthy 5mm marginal
Now before I get all exited heres the problem I noticed.
The bolt head is 3mm high. Will this foul the bearing cap?
Other than that its looking promising
Leaves me with 12mm of thread inside the CW and would not even bottom out on the LSD flange. They do not even feel so loose to the hole as the OE bolts did. Thats propably due to the longer collar.
The other universal bolt option would be a full lenght thread.
I got cold feet using these universal bolts. Felt like I was making this all too complicated. So I looked into the ARP option and was surprised to see they have .900" under heal lenght. Thats 3mm longer than the OE bolts I measured. Giving me the same result as this cut bolt, so I ordered me a set. Case closed alltought the diff build up will propably now take place no sooner than next year.
Did you take a closer look at the washers Jason? I'm a believer when it comes to Nordlock. They're meant to work as a pair and are tough as nails. They have interlocking teeth on the inside squeesed together and sharp gripping teeth on the out side to bite the bolt and the other surface. In order for the bolt to come loose it would virtually need to stretch. The tighter the bolt the harder this bites. I use these inder the crank and porp shaft bolts. You really feel the bite when you open the bolt.
It just started to feel like i'm trying to solve an unexisting problem. And even more so as the ARP bolt are a bit longer.
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