If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
If you do go the electric pump route, I would be very hesitant to supplement the mechanical one. A friend out here did that and fried his head.
We reckon the mechanical one was just causing cavitation when the electric one was installed
I have had good results removing the mechanical and just blanking off the housing
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Its all connected up and full of water. I'll run it this afternoon if I get permission.
So, where's the best place for me to fit the pump? At the sensor end, or the thermostat end.
And I presume it has a 32mm core like the rest of the system?
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Originally posted by grahamb
So, where's the best place for me to fit the pump? At the sensor end, or the thermostat end.
And I presume it has a 32mm core like the rest of the system?
Bottom outlet of radiator going into the thermostat housing, yes it is 32mm as standard with various adapters in the kit in case you need a different bore
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Bottom outlet of radiator going into the thermostat housing, yes it is 32mm as standard with various adapters in the kit in case you need a different bore
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
I ran the engine, and the new layout of the radiator made no difference.
The engine gets up to temp nice and quick (<5mins). The header tank and swirl pot are both the first two items to get too hot to touch, suggesting that the flow of water from the swirl pot to the header is still too great, despite the 2mm restrictor inside the 8mm hose. When I raise the revs the radiator starts to flow.
So: EWP looks like a go-er.
But, before I do that (you can tell I'm determined to get to the root cause), should I block off the large diameter bypass hose that runs across the front of the block from the thermostat housing to the sensor housing?
Does anyone else running a RWD Duratec in an Escort run this pipe? If you run a water rail kit on a Duratec, what changes are made to the plumbing?
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
I keep mine as simple as possible with only 2 hoses, no other hoses needed unless you are running a heater, but I have no worries about engine running too cool, due to the climatic conditions. You could of course run the EWP with either it's propper controller or relay switched by an ECU.
1: Remove mechanical water pump and replace housing with 5mm Aluminium blanging plate held on with the 3 screws and silicone
2: EWP from bottom hose to home made ex-thermostat housing inlet
5: Permanently switched on EWP with no controller or thermostat
This is the idiot proof set-up I ran on my Caterham, with the exception that I had a Raceline Water rail, again with no thermostat, but otherwise identical. It has been bullet proof for 6 years now.
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Looking at your pictures, it would do no harm to run your swirl pot as well, I have no used one, but a lad who runs an Astra 2.0 out here needed one to sort out his aeration problems in his FWD install
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
although i have used ewp in conjuction with controllers and even a thermostat, having been using them for over ten years now in my view the best way is simply pump on a perm live and no stat
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Hi Graham
My plumbing is basically identical to Neil's. I take the cooler coolant out of the bottom of the rad, through the pump mounted under the T/B's right by the L/H engine mount and into the block with a fabricated plate (32mm bore pipe).
The water pump is completely stripped down and all of the guts removed, all of the crap machined off and an ali bung pressed and bonded in so you can still use the oring detail and it's easily removable. The outlet to the top of the water pump chamber is also blanked off from the inside.
I then run a retroford water rail from the back of the head to the top of the rad which also houses the ECT sensor and stack gauge sensor. No stat or swirl pot as the rad cap is the highest point on the system anyway.
The water pump is run from the ECU on a very simple hysteresis which s basically 20% up to 70degC and flat out 100% after that.
If you let me know you email address mate I'll send you the pics I have of my install.
Here's a couple of pics to give you an idea of mine.
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Right, so here's the plan.
I need to keep the water pump pulley in situ, to act as the idler pulley, or replace it with an idler pulley, to keep the triangulation and tensioner arrangement working properly for the crank/alternator drive belt. Matt, do you have any pics of the modified ump that you made?
Hopefully I can extract the water pump without having to move the engine over.
I need to get a Davies Craig water pump. Which model (the 115?)? How much current do they draw? (The 115 draws 7.5A)
I must remove the thermostat.
Blanking off the bypass hose sounds optional. I may try it in both configurations to see whats best.
I need to run a +12V supply to the waterpump. I did run two cables to the cooling fans in my loom, and one is unused. I need to check that I connected it up in the control/relay box. Failing that, I may as well run a connection directly off the +12V heavy duty alternator output cable, and fuse it in-line. The pump will be running 100% of the time. I could stick the water pump inside the front wing, to keep it out of sight, as space is limited at the front of the car.
I'll have a good hunt around at the Autosport show on Thursday for a pump.
If this doesn't fix it, I'm going to fill the car with soil and grow tomatoes inside it.
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
EWP80 pump is plenty good enough for a Duratec even in 45'c ambient temp
Alternator connection without relay will be fine, all you need is 7 amps max for a EWP80
Pretty sure you can cut/pull the impeller off the mechanical pump and leave the pulley
Re: Grahamb's Mk1 Fiesta XR2 Duratec HE Hillclimber
Could you try and junk that massive serpent of a belt and just run a tiny one just to the alternator like me? Go and see Steve Broughton on the Kent Cams stand on thursday and see the little belt tensioner on the display engine, the alternator is fixed with a really neat small idler.
You can just cut the impellor off the rear but you still need to do soemthing with the other outlet from that chamber, I'm pretty sure Steve sells them off the shelf. I could turn one up if you want anyway.
Comment