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I took a look at some recently developped oil leaks yesterday. The engine seems to leak from the rear crank seal. Looking at the leak I spotted the flywheel had some discoloration on the engine side of it
The clutch showed some symptoms of slipping in the last race but this seems like it has overheated massively to get darkened all the way trough on the engine side. This excess heat may have caused the real seal to fail and may be behind this oil leak. Also a tiny leak from the timing pins plug.
I'am a bit worried about the fly. May be warped or even worse could be hardened and now bridle. Alltough I contacted the manufacturer the TTV racing products and they were not worried. Just adviced me to get it checked and re-machine the face if needed. What do you fellars think should I bin the fly due to discoloration all the way trough?
One thing is given, this clutch must be tossed as far away as possible. Not to dis Quartermaster quality. I just think this is wrong clutch for me. It simply takes zero slipping which pretty much is a necessity when driven to a trailer or moving the car on the paddock.
sorry to here that, are you using a sintered or cerrametalic clutch? sintered clutches wont stand any slipping, i've been using sintered ones for years, but dont ever slip it and never drive on the trailer, cerrameticallic will stand being slipped so its sounds like thats what you need
if it was a cast flywheel i'd be worried but i wouldnt bin a steel flywheel just because its blued, it just means its been hot,
Its been quite slow onin the garage.
Did mange to modify the xmember a bit. And some geometry research pretty much showed all my arm and rod angles are far from ideal.
With this bump steer kit and lifting the nose up it all could be pretty much corrected but I'm not too keen on raising the car. So I guess I'll be spending some time under the car.
re the clutch , that's the same issue as the S1600 Puma we used to service . It was always pushed off the trailer , or winched on , and always pushed out of it's parking area in service . You could melt it just by driving it up on the trailer! Used properly it lasted a long time . you either launched..or didn't go at all!
And the launches are quite violent in nature. Removing your foot aside from the pedal not lifting the pedal is not in my books the ideal way to make the best grid start. Luckily there are options. Right now I'm most intrugued by the dual organic plate clutch. To get the good feel to the bite and get those spot on starts.Still only 99% sure it'll hold nd not slip though. Steve from SBD did reckon it would do for my appliction lltough the clutch is designed for road and track use.
Havent got whole lot done lately. Mostly planning. But managed to take some time and modify the x-member.
This helps me put the TCA's to the correct angle and maybe even lower the front end a bit. Whitch is pure poison for the steering geometry
Nothing new or scientific here. Raised the xmember roof and drilled a new hole for the TCA. Some 25mm higher thn the oe hole.
Dont just raise the pick up point move it out, widens the track and or offers more camber opportunity. 25 out 25 up
JP
Yeah I thought of tht but wanted to keep the pick up point similar in relation to the steering racks pivot point. I believe this helps achieve the neutral behaviour during cornering. If the two arms move in similar way the wheel should not turn more or turn less during cornering. Given that the angles of the two rms are similar.
Widening the track is no biggie with adjustable TCA's.
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