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These are the OE Ford items but I really do not know the true manufacturer.
I went with these coils because they have worked with no problems what so ever on STD road going Duratecs.
I believe something in my set up does not agree with them. If another one goes I'll need to get to the bottom of this. I'll measure the plug gap for starters.
FYI the Super 160 Puma rally car has a single coil , and a friends ran a dyno proven 200bhp , on 2 dynos , on a single throttle body and plenham. and the engine was monted solidly .never gave any problem . so maybe vibration isn't an issue!
It now runs on all four cylinders. Bought a new coil (and two sapres) and problem solved. Also shortened the dwell time from 4 ms to 2,5ms which I believe was the source of the problem in the first place.
Too long dwell time overheats the coils. Coil has a certain time it needs to achieve its max charge anything over that is only excessive heat and stress for the coil.
Too short dwell time will weaken the spark.
Had a chance to work on the Escort today. Finally took the engine out for further modifying and a check up.
I also took a peek at the SL72 since it developed an issue with the reverse gear. It cant hold it keeps jumping off gear. Took the cover out to see what wrong. All looked nice and intact and now the reverse engages beaytifully
I bet when I put the powertrain back the synptoms are immediately back. Well now I have a good chance to get rid of the oil leaks. Leaks after one race. Factory new box
I'll re-post here since have had no answer in the geral car banter area. I don't know is that allowed though.
I was thinking of changin my air box for a sausage filter. I've allready tried a Piper-X sausage but it did not fit due to the metal mesh supporting the sausage. It could not be creased to squeese in.
I made me an airbox but It's a complete nightmare to remove and inslall. Which makes the general maintainance and chenking difficult.
I've noticed the ITG filter to look a bit different. Both on the part of locking the bottom part of the filter in place and lacking the metal mesh. Its not visible anyway.
With Pico injectors I could usea flat backplate and may just be able to squeese the ITG in place IF it can be creased enough to slide over the trupmets.
With regular injectors my back plate would foul the the fuel rail.
Yeah, but what about the trumpets, I have a similar problem, at the moment it looks like I will have to put the Jenvey's and Filter on as one piece, then bolt it to the engine.
I simply cant get the filter past the trumpets. Thinking about building an airbox as well
The trumpets are the the problem. Thats why it would be nice if the filter could be squashed to clear the trumpets and would get back in form once in place. Could be false hope to even think I could squeese this in though. I only have 2" of space between trumpets and tne inner wing.
Airbox in a tight space is a nightmare to install and remove. Thus making the servicing a pain in the... In my case anyway
I certainly would not remove the whole package though. Putting it back on , again in my case, is near impossible since my Jenveys have no o-rings and needs to seal with sealant.
Im thinking of moving the engine to gain room for a filter and longer trumpets. First I need to find out would I gain anything with longer trumpets. Otherwise moving it would be near pointless.
I am using a Pipercross version (copy) of what you have in your ITG picture.
My big problem will be inlet temps, I was up at the racetrack today and one of the lads has dropped his inlet temperatures from 71 to 36'c by making an allow box for his Astra, with a Pipercross filter in it and vents it to a low profile bonnet scoop.
I am thinking of making a bonnet scoop to an airbox with a similar filter to that K&N above, that way I could service it from the top. I may even just cut a big hole in the bonnet, so when it opens, it leaves the airbox and scoop in the bay.
I had trouble with the Piper x too. The problem was the bottom part where you need to slide the bottom in place in an angle to get in place. The bottom works as a hinge forcsertain point until you can lift the filter off.
The ITG looks different.
You need to slide the two flaps (high lighted in red) to these holes(blue) and then lock the top half.
ITG seems like you do not need to work it in in an angle so could work better in tight places.
Might have no choice, with ambient temperatures above 45 and track temps sometimes up to 60, might have no choice. I can't do what you did with a remote filter, as I have a dry sump tank in the LHS of the engine compartment.
Might have no choice, with ambient temperatures above 45 and track temps sometimes up to 60, might have no choice. I can't do what you did with a remote filter, as I have a dry sump tank in the LHS of the engine compartment.
That tank there contributes in heating the air inside the bonnet. What temperatures does your IAT sender read?
How about heat shealding the oil tank? Also wrapping or better yet cheramically coating the exhaust manifold might help.
Can you manage to squeese in an cold air duct beneath the tank? You could use ITG and just lead fresh air to it beneath the front spoiler?
Or haw about the these filters trough the inner wing I see in some turbo applications. Cut a hole in the inner wing and put the air filter inside the front wheel arch?
Just some ideas to preserve the immaculate escort look
But doing the unholy act of desecrating the bonnet may well be the most effective way.
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