Re: A race bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10 now going s14 power!
it seemed to take ages but yesterday i sorted the top hose and remote thermostat and bleed from head out, the main reason it too so long was that i had to do it out of lots of small secondhand bits of samco most of which were too short, the inlet side of the head is higher than the exhaust where the coolant leaves the head, so it needs a bleed to remove trapped air, without a header tank (current rad doesnt need one) i was a bit stick and plumbed it back into the thermostat which i wasnt sure would work, because the thermost is only slightly higher than the head and i'd be plumbing the bleed back into the same part of the system the main water flow goes which made me think all the water might go through the rail and non through the bleed, but i tested the bleed circuit with a bit of clear hose and it worked, you could deffo tell it worked when the clear hose softened and blew off and the engine squirted water everywhere.

didnt get much else done yesterday other than run out of fuel! then check the valve clearances once i'd got it properly warmed up, i swapped a couple of shims, dunno why i adjust them right when i build it because theres always a couple that are wrong once its run, i've got two inlets that are a about 4thou tight but will have to live with that for now as i dont have any thin enough shims to fix that and the chances of getting a couple before going to the rollers is slim, still if im 100bhp down i've got a ready made excuse
_ not!
it seemed to take ages but yesterday i sorted the top hose and remote thermostat and bleed from head out, the main reason it too so long was that i had to do it out of lots of small secondhand bits of samco most of which were too short, the inlet side of the head is higher than the exhaust where the coolant leaves the head, so it needs a bleed to remove trapped air, without a header tank (current rad doesnt need one) i was a bit stick and plumbed it back into the thermostat which i wasnt sure would work, because the thermost is only slightly higher than the head and i'd be plumbing the bleed back into the same part of the system the main water flow goes which made me think all the water might go through the rail and non through the bleed, but i tested the bleed circuit with a bit of clear hose and it worked, you could deffo tell it worked when the clear hose softened and blew off and the engine squirted water everywhere.

didnt get much else done yesterday other than run out of fuel! then check the valve clearances once i'd got it properly warmed up, i swapped a couple of shims, dunno why i adjust them right when i build it because theres always a couple that are wrong once its run, i've got two inlets that are a about 4thou tight but will have to live with that for now as i dont have any thin enough shims to fix that and the chances of getting a couple before going to the rollers is slim, still if im 100bhp down i've got a ready made excuse

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