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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
That's right Graham teach your boy some respect
I did see it once or twice in race one (I was 6 or 7 places behind before it broke),but despite making up 16 places (From 46th to 28th)in race two the delay when starting at the back of the pack cost me too much time to have a chance of finishing any higher.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
only 200Kgs left to remove now
we need more
makes the car much faster 
Cars, because you can't get enough kicks out of walking fast.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
ahhh edit button is gone, what happened there?
yay for double IT
is snet next weekend or this coming one?Cars, because you can't get enough kicks out of walking fast.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
next weekend the 18th,
the edit button goes away after 10 mins, then you have to ask a mod nicely to edit your post, so ask nicely son!Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
the edit button is never there in your thread father, only in dave's and even then the school blocked the "saving your edit" page
how're you anyway?Cars, because you can't get enough kicks out of walking fast.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
stop cluttering up my thread!Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
i think theres a strainge irony that im next out in a weeks time at snetterton which has the fastest straight of any uk circuit and i've taken the diff out to fit a LOWER ratio to it,
it part of on going development for next year really, its a intermarque race, no points at stake really, well none worth worrying about, im 2nd in class cant get beaten and cant get 1st, so its an ideal time to see if i can manage snets long straight on a low diff, if i can then no messing around changing ratios next year
unless of course i change the engine spec which shifts the power band down again
Last edited by Graham; 11-10-2009, 11:14.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
also part of next years development im looking at alternators again, i will have to run one, ive never had nuch luck with them on ANY version of m10 engien they all seem to pack up, i guess thers a certain frequency of vibration the engine makes they dont like
a bespoke motorsport unit is expensive, it did occur to me i have a spare alternator for my bike which i already know had a built in reg
its driven straight of a gear incoroprated in a crank web, but im sure i could modify it to take a belt, so i took the pulley off and chucked up up in the lathe
bearing in mind it runs about 3 times crank speed in the bike, i was suprise to see at only 1200 rpm it was charging, but i actually tested it at 2000rpm
checking out the workshop manual for my bike i found its simple to wire, one wire straight to the battery another to an ignition live, no charge light function, but im not bothered about that
it doesnt put out a huge ampreage, after a couple of mins running it was only putting out 1A, so i started loading it up with headlamp bulbs one 55w bulb and we had
so i kept adding bulbs, by the time i got to 4 bulbs the ammeter was showing 20A, and the lathe noticably slowed when i connected them, moving the ammeter showed practically nothing was actually going into the battery, but the alternator was supplying all the juice the bulbs needed.
conclusions, lights off it takes about 20-22 amps to keep my engine and its two fuel pumps and electric water pump running, so this alternator will allow me to comply with 2010 regulations, it wont waste any power by putting out more charge than needed, im not sure without more testing whether it would be powerfull enough for a road car, but in my case its enough, it will even keep the battery topped up , which im not actually bothered about as its no hassle to charge it between races anyway.
the fact it will charge at low revs is a good thing as i want to power it off the diff output shafts which obviously turn quite slowly only 800rpm at 100mph, rather than the engine, why? because the diff wont vibrate as much as an engine, i dont like anything which might interfear with the dry sump pump belt and i dont want to reengineer the crank pulleys, appartfrom which is if have to add weight to the car i want to add it at the rear not the frontLast edited by Graham; 11-10-2009, 11:16.Comment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
i like the logic
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
Will it not be better to run it off the prop like the audi's did in the 80's? With the irs the shafts are going to move up and down which will affect the belt unless you run it from the flanges on the diff (that is probably what you mean by output shaft thinking about it?!)?
Good idea though, no point complicating the engine when its all working perfectly and your adding an unknown into the equation!
sigpicComment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
i'd run it off diff flanges as they dont move,
in way it would be better to run it off the prop, then you dont have to worry abut the reduction ratio of the diff, but i cant get a drive off the diff/prop connection unless you hang the alternator under it making it lowest part of the car by a long way, not sure theres space to run it at gearbox end, cant really run if off the middle somwhere cos its a split propComment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
Isn't there space under the rear seat part of the floor, I know i in my sierra there is loads of room
Would you turn down an origional pulley and bolt or weld it to the driveshaft/prop?.jpg)
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO MotorsportComment
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Re: A racing bmw 316, 240bhp Atmo M10
theres stacks of space there, but i dont fancy welding anything to the prop, and i doubt a flat non ribbed belt just running round the prop itself would ever grip the prop enough to do anything--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Isn't there space under the rear seat part of the floor, I know i in my sierra there is loads of roomComment
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